Interesting to me that all your codes are related to bank 1. If the issue was your HPFP or LPFP, I'd expect the codes/misfires to be peppered across both banks.
Since they aren't, I suspect you have a leaky injector(s) somewhere in bank 1. That would create the low fuel pressure at start up (it leaks out through an injector), and the misfires.
Since the lambda sensor for bank 1 essentially reads an average AFR for all 3 cylinders, if one injector is leaking, it will be rich, O2 sensor will detect and pull fuel making the other 2 lean (if they're not also leaking). So all 3 cylinders of the bank will run incorrectly even if only 1 injector is actually leaking.
Hello,
I have experienced the same issue before on my BMW535i E60 (N54). I also thought that it was my HPFP so I replaced it with a good used one. Issue persisted. After that I check my fuel injectors and found that I had "leaking Injector(s)". After replacing two of the most leaking injectors, the low fuel pressure codes went away and the car start-up is smoother. So leaking injectors have the same symptom as a faulty HPFP. The injector leak (fuel and pressure) out into the cylinder(s) after engine shutoff. So at start up, the HPFP works to buildup pressure that is lower than normal (causing the codes) and there is extra fuel already in the cylinder causing the misfires until the extra fuel is burned away and everything is as close to back to normal as possible depending on how well the fuel injector(s) are operating.
There are various ways to check the fuel injectors. Since I do most of my own maintenance, the process I used was a little involved but gave the best information about each injector operation. I removed each injector from the engine and reversed each injector and injector fuel line tube so that they were pointing toward the driver side of the car fully out of the engine and disconnected the coils. Then placed a couple of paper towels under each injectors (to catch and identify any leakage). Dried the tips of the injectors with paper towels and then started the car (note: with the coils disconnected the engine just cycles). After a few seconds of cycling the engine, I stopped and then checked each injector for wetness and/or leakage. With this process, a good injector would remain dry (no signal from the DME to open). Any wet or visually leaking (spaying) injector is bad. Please note that a "SLIGHTLY (very little)" leaking injector(s) should be replaced, but most of the time are still functional. The injector(s) that leak badly should be replaced. They/It is causing the fuel pressure leak and misfire. If you reinstall the SLIGHTLY LEAKING injector(s) there may be still a pressure lose but not as bad as with the really bad injector(s) (depending on the quality/state of the injector(s)). Replacing all leaking injector(s) should restore the correct system pressure. And you should also clean the injector tips of any excess carbon buildup.
There are videos on "Youtube" demonstrating this process. It is involved but well worth it. Saves you money and brings your joy of driving your baby back.
ROG58:
2009 BMW E60 535i LCI
MHD Tune
xHP Transmission Tune
BMS Throttle Peddle Tune
BMS Cold Air Intake Upgrade
VRFS Chargepipe Upgrade
Dinan Coils Upgrade
NGK 1-step Colder Spark Plugs
7 inch FMIC Upgrade
Akebono Brakes Upgrade
Various Maintenance (Sensors, Hoses, Belts, Pulleys)
