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Automatic to Manual swap (07 335i RWD)

Summary

Automatic to Manual swap (07 335i RWD)

1 Automatic to Manual swap (07 335i RWD)

Preface
First off I'd like to say welcome to my biggest DIY project yet!
For all those wondering, I'm 10K miles into the manual swap, and I've never loved driving my car like I do now! A whole different experience going from auto to manual in the same car too! Definitely would suggest to anyone who wants some good motoring back into an excellent European sports car. Manual shifts like butter and I love how precise you need to be with the clutch and how heavy the clutch feels. Grab point is up high and it loves to be in a particular spot for good engagements. Clutch chatter is there, but can be negated via MHD and setting idle to 800-950RPM. I don't mind it as i've gotten used to it already lmao. Thanks again everyone for the help and thanks @omarmarji for teaming up!

Back Story:
I've been driving my car for about 2 years now (owned it since October, 2013) and I've been reading up on mechanics and other similar topics while having owned my car, seeing as how it was a BMW I told myself I would do the work on my own to save money. Well after doing all the work and learning the mechanics behind this German beast and with the car creeping up to 110k miles I was questioning whether to keep the car or trade it. The car has been very good to me, even after driving pretty hard it still runs 100 all day everyday, I do all recommended maintenance myself (3-5K mile Oil changes, changed transmission fluid @ 90K Miles, etc) . I've had all the common issues resolved via extended warranty (HPFP, Water pump, valve cover, oil filter housing gasket, mechatronic sleeve, injectors, etc) (foresaw this happening that is why I got the warranty) so after some research into the matter (manual swap) I found a really nice deal on a manual transmission with about 35K miles on it and I have a buddy of mine who has done several auto to manual swaps on other similar configuration cars (longitudinally mounted transmissions, aka: typical RWD drivetrain setup) and with some parts list of the conversion I was off! So with that being said, I have decided to document the whole process for anyone who is interested in performing this DIY. I've read nothing but negative things on this job, from "waste of money" to "it's not even worth it". Well to those who love their car too much to trade it in and want to convert to manual to revive some of that "ultimate driving experience" I say to you, Read on friends :)!

Car we are talking about in this write-up:
2007 Black/Beige 335i RWD Sedan N54 Build date: 01/07 (technically 12/06)
Will be swapping a GS6-53BZ from a 07 manual 335i with about 37K on the transmission


KEY:

  • BLUE = OEM Part number
  • BOLD = Additional notes based on observation and other things

Let's start off with the Parts list:
I will for the most part being using OEM parts to perform this conversion, I recommend for those who want to save some money to attempt to find a loaner vehicle or in other words a car you can snag the parts off.

  1. GS6-53DZ 6-Speed ZF Manual Gearbox (23007571423) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  2. Clutch switch module (should come with master cylinder, doublecheck) OEM part number: (61319231129) (#20 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  3. MTF-LT-2 or MTF-LT-3 (depends on what label on transmission says, if not check Bentley it will tell you, but from what I've heard LT-2 is the way to go unless stated on transmission otherwise)
  4. BMW SAC(Self Adjusting Clutch) or equivalent (21207567623) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  5. BMW Manual Gearbox Shiftier Assembly with bracket(all part #'s in diagram) (for this one I suggest finding a shifter from a loaner car it will a lot easier since this assembly does not come in one piece, search ebay, etc for assembly) Link: BMW Parts Catalog
  6. BMW OEM Dual Mass Flywheel or equivalent flywheel (21207542984) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  7. Pedalbox Assembly (Brake and Clutch pedal box with Slave Cylinder attached (if no slave cylinder is attached then obtain it separate)(35006762926) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  8. Engine wiring harness for manual transmission module (if you don't plan on doing the wiring to the clutch switch module and the reverse light, 3 wires pretty straight forward might require proprietary connector or retrofitting) (12517556381) (#1 in diagram (S205A=No (Auto option = No))) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  9. Clutch Master Cylinder (Input Cylinder Clutch(if it doesn't come with pedal box)) (21526773670) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  10. Clutch Slave Cylinder (Output Cylinder Clutch )(21526785964) (#15 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  11. Clutch lines (ones going from the Master to the Slave and from Master to Break fluid reservoir) (#14, 10, 7 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  12. Manual gearbox Accelerator Pedal with accelerator module (35426860000) (#1 in Diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  13. Drive Shaft (The automatic one is 1453mm, manual is 1470mm for models up to 03/07) (26107614384) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  14. Manual Gearbox Diff (3.08 ratio (only needed if you have the auto diff from 08 and up as they are smaller and require the diffs to be changed, unlike the ones from before 08 which sport the 3.46 ratio on the diff, so completely up to you if you want to change it out for the longer ratios aka less burn out potential, but better gas mileage)) (33107571187) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
  15. Super DOT 4 Pentosin Brake Fluid or Equivalent (Will need to add a little extra for clutch master and slave)
After Market Parts:
  1. Spec Stage 1 Clutch (SB531-2) Decided to go with a Stage 1 instead of a Stage 2 as I didn’t feel the need to spend the extra hundred as I don’t plan on putting down lots of power and this clutch is good for 430 Torque Link: SPEC Clutches & Flywheels: Auto Parts, Domestic, Import, Truck, Racing, Drifting :: Results By Car
  2. Spec Aluminum Flywheel (SB53A-2) Went with this instead of a Dual Mass, good upgrade for those looking to take off some weight and a more connected feel. Link: SPEC Clutches & Flywheels: Auto Parts, Domestic, Import, Truck, Racing, Drifting :: Results By Car

Little Parts (Bolts, screws, etc):

[​IMG]
[​IMG]
[​IMG]


I also have added a few maintenance items while doing the transmissions It's a good idea to attack all the seals that you'll encounter especially with high mileage trans and motors. I would get the rear main seal, and the drive shaft insert as well and any seals for the trans if you have a high mileage transmission. I will not be replacing those as my trans only has about 35k on it. I will change the fluid of course. if you have the extra cash and they aren't expensive at all...total is about 20-30 bucks for both. Well Worth if you don't want oil leaking onto your clutch and flywheel.


Tools Required
(I will add all the standard standard tools you will need as well later on, ie: 8mm, 10mm, etc I'll list just add the specialty ones for now relating to this job)

  1. Bentley Service Manual (THE DIY BIBLE) Link: BMW Repair Manual - BMW 3 Series (E90, E91, E92, E93): 2006-2011 Bentley Publishers - Repair Manuals and Automotive Books
  2. Transmission Jack (Transmissions weighs about 125LB)
  3. 50mm Open Wrench (Rear Drive shaft to diff removal) (Found equivalent to speciality tool (tool is $600) use this yamaha axle nut wrench Link: Tusk OEM Axle Nut Wrench | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC)
Laptop with BMW programming software (INPA) or equivalent (find software on forums or elsewhere)
  • 8,10,12,13,18,23mm socket and/or wrench (Get swivel sockets as well, these will help when getting into tight spots)
  • E10,E12,E14 Torx socket
  • 1/2 Torque Wrench
  • Jack and Jack stands ( If you have no lift available)
  • 1/2” and 3/8” extensions (Get wobble extensions they will help with getting out the bellhousing bolts!)
  • Zip Ties (Long ones and short ones (you never know…))
  • Pressure Bleeder (To bleed brakes when adding in new fluid for clutch)
  • Red Thread Locker (for the flywheel bolts, very important. You don't want your flywheel bolts to start coming undone with all the heat and vibration)
  • Will also need OBD to USB Cable for programming



*TIPS*

  1. For the manual harness wiring there a few proprietary connectors that will need to either be obtained or bypassed in order to wire in the connection for the brake light and the clutch switch module [​IMG]
  2. For the Driveshaft you can either buy the back half of a manual or buy the whole manual driveshaft. Be sure to double check length based on what diff you have. Look up driveshaft on realoem to check for length.
  3. Inlet coolant pipe on automatics have a pipe that sticks out that needs to be plugged somehow(tips i've gotten on this was bolt and JB weld or if it's the right material just weld something to it to shut it. [​IMG]
  4. Heater Return line, same thing as well, but this is just a rubber hose that will need to be plugged, as this is where the heat exchanger was plugged into. [​IMG]
  5. You can choose to replace the radiator if you want to, but the radiator in the N54 consists of a separate flow for the oil cooler for the transmission. The heat exchanger can be removed without problems to the rest of the coolant system. [​IMG]
  6. When disconnecting driveshaft, make a mark when you disconnected them for easy reassembly. I believe the two parts are independatly balanced, but i've heard the opposite, so mark it. Better be safe than sorry.
  7. Guide for setting up Inpa for those not wanting to download VM (alot easier with the VM in my opinion)(Coming Soon...)

How-To:
I'm still at the moment gathering all the parts required for this, I will also be linking different DIY's and guides I found online relating to this and I will reference many of them for wiring and such as well. I will update this thread as I obtain the parts and do the prerequisite work. I will also edit the parts list with OEM Part numbers for sourcing, as well as add more tools and such later one. I will also add the wiring diagram.

  1. Place car on a lift or use jacks and stands to lift the car by its 4 jacking points (Plastic slots)
  2. Remove Plastic Splashguard covers underneath car (8mm)
  3. Remove Exhaust completely
  4. Remove the 2x brackets that hold the Plastic Splashguard (one is 10mm and other is 13mm)
  5. Remove Heat shield for access to transmission tunnel (8mm and 10mm) (Flush the transmission at this point if you haven’t already)
  6. Remove the Driveshaft from the transmission (3x 18mm bolts attaching driveshaft to flex-disc, and 2x 13mm bolts holding center bearing to chassis) Before pulling be sure to setup some zip ties or something to hold the driveline up when it is pulled out
  7. Unplug and remove O2 sensors (as you remove place a zip tie or label to note connections to each sensor)
  8. 8. Remove O2 sensor bracket from bellhousing (2x E10 fasteners) once removed affix it to the side via a zip tie or equivalent
  9. In the engine compartment remove the cabin air filters and IAT sensors on cowl, they will simply unclip.
  10. Remove the Drip pan (2x 8mm fasteners on the side and 2x rubber clips that simply pull out) Lift up and towards the front of the vehicle to remove
  11. Remove upper most bolt on the bellhousing (1x E14) (use a flex head socket to reach tight spots next to firewall)
  12. Remove upper most bolt on the starter (1x E12) (Bolt going into transmission) (use flex head socket again) (at this point you can go ahead and remove the automatic transmission harness and replace with manual or remove the automatic connectors from the ECU Box and wire in the brake light switch and the clutch switch module, also remove the cooler lines attached to the heat exchanger on the radiator (this is a closed loop supply, so you can remove the line without problems with leaking out coolant)
  13. Go back to underneath the vehicle, support the transmission brace with a jack or stand if you have a lift
  14. Remove fastener attaching brace to chassis (4x 13mm)
  15. Once removed, slowly and carefully drop the transmission down, you should only have to drop an inch or two.
  16. With transmission still held up by stand or jack stick a piece of wood (2x4 or a piece that will fit just right) in-between the oil pan and the sway bar. There should be a little bit of pressure on the wood then push it in. *Watch out for the piece of wood falling out if you are pulling down on the tranny*
  17. Grab a long extension ( may need to connect a bunch of small extension to achieve required length) and 13mm swivel socket.
  18. Remove torque Convert bolts (There should be a hole near the bellhousing to remove the torque convert bolts (make sure to crank the motor in order to reach all the bolts))
  19. Once torque converter has been unbolted proceed with removing automatic transmission from engine by removing the remaining bellhousing bolts
  20. Slowly remove transmission from car.
  21. While removing trans, have a friend or another person or you, whichever go ahead and remove the driveshaft rear end from the diff (50mm axel nut wrench)
  22. Once removed, replace driveshaft insert nut, if you plan on doing that seal if not go ahead and remove old driveshaft and rebuild second half with manual driveshaft piece, or go ahead and replace the whole shaft with the manual one if you went that route.
  23. Fill transmission with fluid if you haven't already done so.
  24. Route hose for clutch line through firewall, cut nipple to break reservoir (be sure to drain a little fluid out of the reservoir, so you don't spill break fluid when cutting the nipple for the clutch line off as it's location is near the bottom of the reservoir.
  25. Remov automatic flywheel from engine. (use flywheel holder tool if you have one in order to loosen bolts and torque down new flywheel)
  26. Install manual single or dual mass flywheel to engine with pilot bearing shaft (Be sure to use Red thread locker on these bolts!!)
  27. So when I took off the flywheel I was introduced to the pilot shaft, which is actually a separate piece that sits behind the flywheel to attached to the pilot bearing inside the input shaft of the transmission. After some research it turns out the N55 does not have this and has the pilot bearing within the flywheel like you would normally see it. Pics to flywheel with pilot "stub"
  28. Install clutch and pressure plate using alignment tool be sure to use some red loctite when bolting in the flywheel bolts, no need for that to vibrate back out of it's place haha.
  29. Be sure to remove all the automatic connectors from the trans and lift from the top of the car out the automatic tranmission loom. You will need two connectors on the automatic harness plugged in as well as the ground for the loom, because when you go to program the car the DSC module relays on that ground to function. You will need to just tuck in part of the harness in the ECU box like I did. Just cut off the plastic retainer for the cable and wrap it around. reference for 2 connectors and ground needed to be plugged in from auto loom
  30. Go ahead and install the transmission back onto the engine. be sure when installing that the transmission is tilting to a little clockwise to line up with engine reference the HPF chris' video here:
  31. I recommend installing shifter before driveshaft, it was a little bit of a pain to install after as I accidentally had the shifter backwards so it leaned a little. If yours does the same you have the shifter in backwards.
  32. Install all the bellhousing bolts to the trans, be sure to the use the proper bolts as per part numbers as some are different from others. Also remember there is a bolt by the starter that is installed going towards the firewall and one the other way.
  33. Once bellhousing bolts are install, reconnect driveshaft from manual car.
  34. Once everything is back together now it's time for the wiring portion which only involves the wiring for the clutch switch module on before 03/07 models, after have to do one additional wire i believe
  35. First the cable going from the DME to the Clutch switch module which will be the cruise control, I didn't get it working I ended up jumping pin 41 and 3 on the CAS module to simulate the clutch being pressed in all the time. No cruise control, but it turns on instantly without having to push in clutch. Only 2 downsides: No cruise control and no accessory mode, but the accessory mode can be attained by pulling the cables i jumped apart. Real easy. Pic of wire needing to be either spliced into or added to the connector (the one with tape on it)
  36. For the other side by the master cylinder where the clutch switch module hangs out you can either use a computer fan connector or get this connector for the clutch switch module (part number provided by CeeWhizzle, thanks man!) Part #: 61116911072
  37. Pin 3 on the CAS module (please don't mind my savagery, I didn't have pin extractor and used wrong connector to plug in so I had to cut it out lmao still works!) pic
  38. Pin 41 on mine already had a wire going to it, so I just spliced into that connector, granted I ended up jumping those two.
  39. Find a random ground to use for the clutch switch module and run the cable to the DME through the same hole as the clutch line going to the reservoir from the master cylinder, I had mine in a plastic covering going over the engine like the transmission harness was.
  40. Once you have the wiring done now it's time for the programming! Easiest part, if you got everything hooked up right lmao I spent 5 days troubleshooting the issue that I had with the DSC module not answering, due to the fact I had a ground missing from the old auto harness, please be sure to connect that with the manual ground in the same spot if you will.
  41. Once you have the Windows 7 virtual machine up and running go ahead and start inpa to make sure your connection is good should read battery okay with a filled in dot reference: [​IMG]
  42. Afterwards you want to open the NCSExpert application
  43. Once NCSExpert has been opened hit file at the top and hit load profile. Load the Expert mode profile reference: [​IMG]
  44. Afterwards hit F1 (VIN/ZCS/FA) [​IMG]
  45. Then hit F3 (ZCS/FA ECU) [​IMG]
  46. Will ask you to choose Chassis, be sure to choose "E89"
  47. Then Select "CAS" from the "Choose ECU" menu
  48. Once it has been selected it will take you back to the main menu, but this time it should read E90(E89) for "CHASSIS" and the "FG" you should see your car's VIN. Pic: [​IMG]
  49. Press F2 to enter the FA or Vehicle Order of the car there you will see a menu with chassis again choose E89 now it will ask if the vin is correct, it should auto populate with your vin if yes then hit okay and it will take you to a FA screen with all the options your car as on it. Remove S205A AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION by clicking it and hitting delete key.
  50. Press F6 or the back button, then hit F4 for ECU and select CAS and then okay
  51. F2 to change job, from the pop up window select FA_WRITE. and press okay
  52. Verify all the information is correct (Right module, and jobname is FA_WRITE) then hit F3 to execute the job should be pretty quick
  53. After the write has been complete press F1 to change ecu and select "FRM" go ahead and verify module and jobname once more and hit F3 to Execute the job on the FRM (Fussraum Module) (Footwell module)
  54. Once that has been done, go ahead and select the CAS module once more and this time select the "SG_CODIEREN" and execute the job on both the CAS and the FRM modules.
  55. After coding has ended. Exit NCS Expert and proceed to start Car!

Pictures:

[​IMG]

Thanks everyone and by all means feel free to add in any information regarding this project, I will add in your suggestions and info to the post as I read them. :burnrubber::burnrubber::burnrubber::burnrubber:

UPDATES:
*Update 12-21-2015: Added Part numbers, and Links to diagrams with label what which item it is in the diagram, colored links blue for better noticing*

*Update 12-28-2015: Made some changes to the thread: Took away some of the color, also changed from fonts and bolded a few titles, added a key, and standardized a font size for easier reading. Picked up the Transmission with hydraulic lines and slave cylinder, drive shaft with giubo, flywheel, shifter assembly, mounting hardware for transmission. Saving some cash for now, so will update thread within a few weeks, I will also start adding pictures to an imgur.com album and linking the relevant pictures when need be*

*Update 1-11-2016: Added in some steps to the DIY, haven't gotten much chance to work on the thread have been busy with work lately. I will add more instructions as I get the chance, as well as pictures of the electrical wiring diagram and what needs to be wired.*

*Update 2-14-2016: Been a while since I last updated this, just received a good amount of money and manual swap is back on track. Got all the rest of the parts, after doing some research I decided to go with manual harness instead of wiring as there are some proprietary connectors involved. You can still go this route, it just won’t look as clean and will make it a little harder if you aren’t so keen on wiring. I will still link the diagrams required for the wiring. I also decided to go with a Spec Stage 1 clutch with a Spec Single Mass Aluminum Flywheel. Figured I might as well put something nice in here rather than the used clutch and dual mass I received with the transmission. There are a lot of little bolts and bits that need to be obtained. Look at the realoem diagrams for each of the items to obtain the part number and cross-reference the number on ecstuning or another part site.

*Update 2-24-2016: All the remaining parts will arrive this week and beginning of next. Plan on doing the manual swap on March 5. Found out some more information, I will create a "Tips" section for the little things i've discovered as i've been moving along with the project. Added screenshots of my ECStuning order for all the little bits you'll need. Added pictures as well as the electrical diagram (go to tips section). Also added for instructions and verified the prior information is still correct. Thanks!

*Update 3-4-2016: Proceeding with manual swap tomorrow, got all the information I need. Also got the fittings I need and caps to plug those coolant hoses once atf cooler is removed. Got the coding down via my laptop using windows XP virtual machine and usb to obd 2 can + cable.

*Update 3-14-2016: Swap is currently delayed as one of the buddies helping me with the swap cannot get a saturday off currently, aiming for this weekend for the swap if all goes well, found additional hole for clutch line from master to slave going underneath the carpet.

*Update 4/4/2016: Started the swap last weekend, ran into a few things i'd like to make note of here for future reference: 1 the driveshaft to diff nut actually required another piece to a larger nut holding the driveshaft nut to the diff (I will upload pics of this). Also make sure to get a flywheel holder, didn't think of this. Will be needed to torque down the flywheel. also biggest surprise was when we got stuck on the pilot bearing shaft as I didn't realize this piece is actually pressed into the stock dual mass, because I was a little confused about the pilot bearing and where it inserted...not a lot of information on that. Did find a thread showing the difference between the N54 (pilot bearing inside of input shaft of trans) and the N55 (pilot bearing inside of flywheel) be sure that your flywheel comes with this shaft, and I could not find it anywhere else to be purchased separately. It was supposed to come with the SMFW conversion, but didn't...luckily my friend convinced me to buy the old DMFW off the guy I got the trans from, so I had that piece. I will upload some pics this week and next. Me and 2 of my friends got the automatic out pretty quick (about 3 hours or so). I will continue the swap next week. Just need to install clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, wire clutch switch module, run slave line, add brakefluid, add coolant, bleed brakes, and do waterpump flush procedure. Afterwards code the car,and if it starts with the clutch pressed in we would at that point have ourselves a manual 335i!! Wish me luck :) :dance::dance::dance:

*Update 8/9/2016: Completed DIY and added pictures where needed! Let me know if you have any questions and good luck everyone! Shift on my fellow bimmer drivers :)

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