I don't think you'll find a better fuel set up anywhere else. I've been running that for awhile now. You will have to go thru a lengthy learning process with the BPM4 though. (At least I had to). Congrats on the build, looks great.
2009 E93 ADE Single Turbo Build
- Thread starter doublespaces
- Start date
Where do you live I'm more than happy to help install with you lol ... I just can't make any promises about not trying to negotiate a straight trade for my 2010 E90 with super low miles in pristine condition
If I had enjoyed my car the last few years I might even be ready to move on from it.
Unofficially yes. You need to contact @EOSpeed directly.
Currently I have a single 525 installed to run E54. That should be plenty for right now based on the power figures I've seen it producing (700 on e85)
Got the fuel system installed, made a guide here: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/eospeed-billet-fuel-system-installation.5582/
Also installed the EKP at the same time: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/bpm4-ekp-installation-for-e93.5584/
While the car was in the air I decided to redo my transmission cooler. The PPK core I had converted to a trans fluid cooler was incredibly inadequate so I changed it out for a dual pass bar/plate type cooler. I had to hammer out the PPK bracket to make it flat, then bent some aluminum to mount the cooler. Then I hooked up some 10AN -> 8AN hose ends to the side of the cooler, fittings are on the 'far' side as this leaves more room for mounting the thermostat and also trying to put fittings right next to the frame rail is incredibly cramped and essentially results in bulging of the fender liner.
This is the result, minus some of the plumbing. I ended up removing one of the bolts on the top because it would interfere with the headlight module. The cooler is incredibly solid with just 3 bolts, no flexing at all so I'm not worried about it.There is absolutely no additional clearance for a larger cooler without deleting the brake ducts.Everything clears, but we are talking about millimeters. This is quite a bit larger than the PPK core and also larger than a 16 row setrab(which has proven to be insufficient). I'm unsure of the efficiency however I bought two of these so I could put one on each side and move the oil to the center, in front of my radiator.
Hopefully someone else could tell me about the drawbacks of running the outlet of this cooler to a second cooler in the passenger wheel well while moving the engine oil cooler in front of the radiator. I'm unsure if there is sufficient pressure to move the fluid properly, not to mention the additional plumbing required. I am intent on keeping these brake ducts as I don't like the missing ducting look and I am not interested in putting the transmission cooler in front of the radiator. That would put heat from an entirely different circuit back into the engine coolant system and I want to avoid that.
I had considered getting a billet/cast trans pan when I swap in the DCT and adding an auxiliary line with tstat pump activation, but this seems costly and complex.
Once this is fully installed, I'll be testing it in 100 degree temps. I am hoping this will be able to keep the temps under control while in motion. If not, I'll need to add the second cooler and see if that fixes the problem. If it can sustain acceptable temps while cruising, then I suspect my next problem will be keeping temps down while parked without any air movement. The increased size of the cooler should improve it's performance as a heat sink, however I also have a Derale/Spal - switch/fan kit that I'll be installing to see if that makes a difference. The fan is small, however there is not much space and not a lot of options. Some air movement while parked should help, we will see if it ends up helping enough.
During the winter(temps probably similar to most people's spring or fall) I don't have the same issues. Since AZ's has 100-115 degree ambient temps, my existing setup just cannot hang on even while at cruising speed. We have an average of 100 days per year over 100 degrees last time I heard the statistic.
There is room for one, POSSIBLY two of these. What I end up doing really just depends on how this cooler performs by itself while on the freeway, then I'll know more.
Also installed the EKP at the same time: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/bpm4-ekp-installation-for-e93.5584/
While the car was in the air I decided to redo my transmission cooler. The PPK core I had converted to a trans fluid cooler was incredibly inadequate so I changed it out for a dual pass bar/plate type cooler. I had to hammer out the PPK bracket to make it flat, then bent some aluminum to mount the cooler. Then I hooked up some 10AN -> 8AN hose ends to the side of the cooler, fittings are on the 'far' side as this leaves more room for mounting the thermostat and also trying to put fittings right next to the frame rail is incredibly cramped and essentially results in bulging of the fender liner.
This is the result, minus some of the plumbing. I ended up removing one of the bolts on the top because it would interfere with the headlight module. The cooler is incredibly solid with just 3 bolts, no flexing at all so I'm not worried about it.There is absolutely no additional clearance for a larger cooler without deleting the brake ducts.Everything clears, but we are talking about millimeters. This is quite a bit larger than the PPK core and also larger than a 16 row setrab(which has proven to be insufficient). I'm unsure of the efficiency however I bought two of these so I could put one on each side and move the oil to the center, in front of my radiator.
Hopefully someone else could tell me about the drawbacks of running the outlet of this cooler to a second cooler in the passenger wheel well while moving the engine oil cooler in front of the radiator. I'm unsure if there is sufficient pressure to move the fluid properly, not to mention the additional plumbing required. I am intent on keeping these brake ducts as I don't like the missing ducting look and I am not interested in putting the transmission cooler in front of the radiator. That would put heat from an entirely different circuit back into the engine coolant system and I want to avoid that.
I had considered getting a billet/cast trans pan when I swap in the DCT and adding an auxiliary line with tstat pump activation, but this seems costly and complex.
Once this is fully installed, I'll be testing it in 100 degree temps. I am hoping this will be able to keep the temps under control while in motion. If not, I'll need to add the second cooler and see if that fixes the problem. If it can sustain acceptable temps while cruising, then I suspect my next problem will be keeping temps down while parked without any air movement. The increased size of the cooler should improve it's performance as a heat sink, however I also have a Derale/Spal - switch/fan kit that I'll be installing to see if that makes a difference. The fan is small, however there is not much space and not a lot of options. Some air movement while parked should help, we will see if it ends up helping enough.
During the winter(temps probably similar to most people's spring or fall) I don't have the same issues. Since AZ's has 100-115 degree ambient temps, my existing setup just cannot hang on even while at cruising speed. We have an average of 100 days per year over 100 degrees last time I heard the statistic.
There is room for one, POSSIBLY two of these. What I end up doing really just depends on how this cooler performs by itself while on the freeway, then I'll know more.
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The transmission cooler looks good. I have a cone air filter installed in the same area and appreciate your comments on the amount of room available in this area. As the cone filter pushes the inner guard out slightly, I have an issue with the tire touching the inner guard when turning to the right. Looking at the vent on the inner guard. it appears to be protruding further than mine. You don't have any issue with the tire rubbing the inner guard?
Sounds like you have a STETT CAI, something I once installed 10 years ago on my E90 (and never cared for due to the fender bulging). What you're seeing is mocked up, the fender liner is not bolted on. I have 19's with a 30 profile and I think some areas have been close but rubbing hasn't been an actual issue. My car is stock sport suspension height currently as well.
If it does end up rubbing, then I'll perhaps grind off some of the inside of the grill since there is a good bit of excess that may be pushing up against the back of the cooler.
I also do need to make a support bracket. I tried to manipulate the OEM bracket since it already has provisions in the frame rail, however while making final adjustments the materials nature of this sort of aluminum finally caught up to me and it broke, but this is what it was looking like before hand:
And then I started a new job and then it got hot. I recently 'temp' installed a mini split AC in my garage and now I can work again:
To finish off the trans cooler, I finished the lines:
Then wired the fan with thermoswitch and foglight over ride:
It can keep temps down on the freeway and during the summer the fan can halt rising temps at idle and even bring them down very slowly. So my runaway trans temp issue has been solved and I'm not poluting coolant temps while doing so. I'm planning to add another tstat and T the line off to a second cooler on the passenger side. Hopefully I don't have pressure issues.
Then wired the fan with thermoswitch and foglight over ride:
It can keep temps down on the freeway and during the summer the fan can halt rising temps at idle and even bring them down very slowly. So my runaway trans temp issue has been solved and I'm not poluting coolant temps while doing so. I'm planning to add another tstat and T the line off to a second cooler on the passenger side. Hopefully I don't have pressure issues.
In January I got around to installing the eccentric bushes for my rear calipers to bring the pad sweep fully onto the rotor:
I replaced the pads since they had developed an uneven edge and had fractured. More photos can be found in the F30 bbk upgrade thread.
I also took the time to upgrade to the M3 brake master cylinder:
I replaced the pads since they had developed an uneven edge and had fractured. More photos can be found in the F30 bbk upgrade thread.
I also took the time to upgrade to the M3 brake master cylinder:
I plugged the head ports and now run both cans VTA(only temporary, will be routed to intake pipe below)
Welded a 10an bung to my intake pipe with pressure sensor:
Will take the capped end of the fitting and connect it to the service port on the head for crank case ventilation. Ordered a custom fitting to use with less risk if oil coming out:
This front port will prevent running hoses from the back of the engine bay. Also bought a Racetronix catch can to go up front, once I relocate the engine oil cooler lines:
The two cans in back will be ran under the car to reduce smell coming into the cabin.
Welded a 10an bung to my intake pipe with pressure sensor:
Will take the capped end of the fitting and connect it to the service port on the head for crank case ventilation. Ordered a custom fitting to use with less risk if oil coming out:
This front port will prevent running hoses from the back of the engine bay. Also bought a Racetronix catch can to go up front, once I relocate the engine oil cooler lines:
The two cans in back will be ran under the car to reduce smell coming into the cabin.
I hijacked the exhaust flap vacuum solenoid and programmed a wireless relay to a home link button:
Current issue is that the relay is in the trunk but the homelink shoots forwards only. Reflections off my garage wall or my had can trigger it in the back. I'll need to redirect some of that signal rearward or position the antenna in front.
Current issue is that the relay is in the trunk but the homelink shoots forwards only. Reflections off my garage wall or my had can trigger it in the back. I'll need to redirect some of that signal rearward or position the antenna in front.
I also decided to utilize the port injection built into my @EOSpeed intake manifold. This is a v2 manifold but I had it custom made so 72# injectors on bottom, meth/n2o bungs on top for future use:
I also added some grommets to the DME box and ran the AIC wires through after depinning instead of pancaking the wires under the lid:
This box area contains the AIC, flex fuel and boost box, all three are setup to use the alternate ground by the fender. The AIC has been programmed with the new map and that brings us to current. Need to go try some higher ethanol fuel and see what my logs look like.
I also added some grommets to the DME box and ran the AIC wires through after depinning instead of pancaking the wires under the lid:
This box area contains the AIC, flex fuel and boost box, all three are setup to use the alternate ground by the fender. The AIC has been programmed with the new map and that brings us to current. Need to go try some higher ethanol fuel and see what my logs look like.
Love the homelink button relay. Trying to think of other ideas for those extra buttons.
Exhaust cutout, M3 drivelogic button, sport mode on the auto trans, ....
Exhaust cutout, M3 drivelogic button, sport mode on the auto trans, ....
Yeah, I bought a set of 6 pairs with leads on ebay a year ago or two and finally used them. Fits and works fine. I did come to the discovery that the signal coming from the DME to the flapper wires is not the signal I expected so it currently only works when the battery is the power source. With car on or just iginition, I get some 4.3x volts from both wires. I tried having my flapper table set to be always energized, but that didn't seem to change the voltage to the 12v I was expecting. I'm not sure why its not showing 12v at any point in time so this project is stalled until then.
The idea is to control a vacuum flapper for a custom exhaust setup, but the M3 drive logic button would be an interesting one as well for people without that option. The receiver must be 315mhz I believe, but homelink frequency differs based on region. If you can think of a way to get the homelink wireless signal to the rear of the car, let me know
Thanks, haven't driven the car yet. Today, that is the intention, although my Chevy Volt is parked behind it and for some reason won't move, so I'll have to run some diagnostics on it first.
