Thanks for the taking the time to reply, i really appreciate it.@houtan let me answer what I can lol
DCT Removal instruction questions:
Q: Twin-clutch gearbox must be shifted to position “N” before removal. Is this required? How do I make the transmission stay in neutral after turning off the car?
A: Pretty sure "P" is just neutral with the parking lock engaged. It can be manually released to spin the driveshaft by pushing up on the parking lock lever. That's what I did anyway.
Q: Seal off oil cooler line and connection holes on transmission with plugs. What are the part numbers for the plugs?
A: I don't think there is a specific part number, but you could use something like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077NQT97W - just make sure you get the right size
Q: Does this mean you do not drain the transmission oil before removal? I do not see that as one of the steps.
A: I don't think you need to drain it. You should top it off when done though since you'll lose a bit of fluid from disconnecting the cooler lines.
Q: Do I need to order an new Cylindrical roller bearing (Part 5 in the real oem screenshot). How about the Dowel (Part 3 in the real oem screenshot)
A: DCT does not have a pilot bearing
Yeah, I just released the lock to spin the driveshaft so I could get to the other 3 bolts.Thanks for the taking the time to reply, i really appreciate it.
Can you give me a little more info on the parking lock? Why do we need to be able to spin the driveshaft? To get to the bolts? Or for when the transmission is reinstalled?
I am glad to hear the transmission fluid does not need to be drained. Based on the oil analysis of the dct fluid posted online, even at 100k the oil was still in good shape. Since i am at 55k, i feel comfortable using the same fluid. Lol on finding the right size! I pray someone knows which ones to get.
I think the cylindrical bearing is different than the pilot bearing. In the realoem screenshot i uploaded, i was under the assumption that the cylindrical bearing was for the DCT flywheel since i was looking at the DCT parts diagram.
I didn't do it that way precisely because I was afraid that might happen.So i found some other threads on various clutch installs and some used the crank shaft nut/bolt to prevent the flywheel from rotating while torquing the flywheel bolts. Is there any issue doing it that way? For example could that nut/bolt loosen?
I have e93 335i n54b30 engine production date 15.10.2007That is a pretty loaded question. People need to post their diagrams for each year and model of vehicle. There are probably dozens of wiring configurations that you might need.
Start with your cars build date and the model/trans.
Are you talking about the one that has the round bushings in it?Hi. can someone give me the 335is dct part number for the rear support the one bolted to the tranny and the busshings not the one boltwd to the frame and the bushings. Thx u. I am trying to order one and i can get to find one. It is not the one like the at. The dct one has one side longuer . On real oem it shows. 22316796993 and 22116777904 to 2tc. But can soneone with the actual 335is or a e9x swap confirm with me. Thx
Im just on the last stretch. I made a mistake on the pinning. And use the wrong wire for the 8pin #1. I used pin #1 from my AT vs the #7. I will swap it tomorrow or friday since i am on a 4days weekend. I should b having the car running . And hope trouble shooting for any error and fixing. To have it complete by monday i hope. Just waiting for the mount solution. Or use the at and modify it.Gah... that one is a pain to see!
I will try my best, but can't guarantee I can get under there to see that. Might be a couple days if I can't get under there tonight. I hope it doesn't block your progress.