Technical AzNdevil's RHD 335 6MT Build Thread Last Updated: Mar 10, 2019

Rob09msport

Lieutenant
Oct 28, 2017
863
Monroe CT
Only question is was your friends car stock or upgraded arms cause i felt huge difference with upgraded arms, just two days ago i was running my friends triumph 600 and a car pulled into left lane at 70 while i was doing 160 around a light curve on a normally safe very high speed rd "traffic is usually 90 to 100 off peak". I gained prob 15 degrees of yaw thought i was going to shoot off rd or have to rear end car but i waited a sec before trying to counter steer and the car settled into slight brake induced oversteer and then slowly got back in shape. point is i have my car perfectly nuetral with slight toe in front and rear and all upgraded suspension bushings 440f 700r and is extremely stable i think it might be worth shot trying little less toe out in front and little less toe in rear to keep your oversteer and add stabilty. Also you could reduce rear camber a little or maybe add little rear bar i just have never had good experience with more than 0 toe in front on any car ive driven. Ymmv but just my 2 cents.
 
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AzNdevil

Corporal
Nov 4, 2016
214
Hong Kong
Only question is was your friends car stock or upgraded arms cause i felt huge difference with upgraded arms, just two days ago i was running my friends triumph 600 and a car pulled into left lane at 70 while i was doing 160 around a light curve on a normally safe very high speed rd "traffic is usually 90 to 100 off peak". I gained prob 15 degrees of yaw thought i was going to shoot off rd or have to rear end car but i waited a sec before trying to counter steer and the car settled into slight brake induced oversteer and then slowly got back in shape. point is i have my car perfectly nuetral with slight toe in front and rear and all upgraded suspension bushings 440f 700r and is extremely stable i think it might be worth shot trying little less toe out in front and little less toe in rear to keep your oversteer and add stabilty. Also you could reduce rear camber a little or maybe add little rear bar i just have never had good experience with more than 0 toe in front on any car ive driven. Ymmv but just my 2 cents.
we have similar springs rates... im at 457f 634r...what tires and camber are you on?
i will change the alignment after my car is put together again due to new lsd but havent made my mind up on how to proceed as i havent driven the car for almost a year... and more power + lsd makes it worse

thanks for your opinion... i will keep it in mind :grin:
 

Rob09msport

Lieutenant
Oct 28, 2017
863
Monroe CT
I just put nt05s on 245/35/19f 275/30/19r on f14 sdc 23 offset front 25 i think rear mind went blank on rear its 25 or 28 and running 1.8 front with 7.3 caster and now have very slight toe in like the smallest could register and 1.5 rear camber with .1 toe in . i finally feel have the car balanced where i feel like its an extension of my arms. I do want to up my camber though i think I'm going to go 1.8 rear and 2.1 front as the balance is perfect also turner adj endlinks dialed in so zero stress on front bar and meyle hd rear end links with quarter inch from m sport height drop in back so slight preload on rear bar helped , when car was lower had little snap to it raising slightly made perfect. When my endlinks were stressed i pushed in turns mid corner unless trail braked then release brake to let front catch, now it's just slow controlled rotation if i exceed grip .
 

AzNdevil

Corporal
Nov 4, 2016
214
Hong Kong
ahh this... my front bars are preloaded at the moment and i got turner adjustable endlinks hoping to fix it as well
i always wondered if this could be causing the understeer at the beginning of the corner

i think you go with 18 inch wheels...everything will change :grimacing: i started off with 19 as well but handling really suffered IMO
 

Rob09msport

Lieutenant
Oct 28, 2017
863
Monroe CT
ahh this... my front bars are preloaded at the moment and i got turner adjustable endlinks hoping to fix it as well
i always wondered if this could be causing the understeer at the beginning of the corner

i think you go with 18 inch wheels...everything will change :grimacing: i started off with 19 as well but handling really suffered IMO
Your right about the 19s i just love the way they look and the wider tire helps straight line traction. The endlinks though i cannot explain how much of a difference balance and comfort they make ,really brought my suspension together as apackage before them i was regretting my purchase now it's quiet as stock with amazing turn in.
 

AzNdevil

Corporal
Nov 4, 2016
214
Hong Kong
Some more progress...
56.jpg


Previous Mechanic broke my valve cover when taking the engine out... so I had to replace it.
IMG-20180713-WA0067.jpg

Previous Mechanic asked me to replace the block's freeze plugs so I bought him the parts. He started doing one but couldn't get shit to come up. Current mechanic cleaned up his mess and told me not to bother with them.
IMG-20180713-WA0092.jpg


Previous Mechanic asked to the front and rear crankshaft seals. I asked if he has the tools to do it properly, turns out he didn't and pryed both seals out by force. Edges are scored slightly so I hope it doesn't leak. Bought the proper tools for the current mechanic to do it properly. Only got pics of rear seal being done. My current mechanic kinda hates me for always asking him to take pics.
IMG-20180801-WA0170.jpg

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RHD turbo outlet pipe is a known piece of shit... I don't want to deal with the silicone replacements available either as the fitment is hit or miss and since I am not doing it myself I don't want it to bite me in the ass in the future. Since I am only aiming for 500-600ish rwhp in the end, I can most likely acheive that with a rewelded pipe. Only opted to completely round out one side and partially round out the other as it sits pretty close to the turbo as is.
57.jpg

IMG-20180731-WA0173.jpg

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Heres how the stock RHD outlet looks
IMG-20180714-WA0110.jpg


Took old clutch pivot pin out. I was going to go with the aftermarket brass one but google says they suck so I have an OEM stainless steel one on order as we speak. For some reason BMW decides to use SS for only 3 cars. Part Number: 21511223281
ss clutch pivot pin.png


Pilot bearing is still smooth and google tells me not to mess with it unless it's fucked.
59.jpg


Now heres where shit goes wrong... again.
Missing clutch pressure plate bolts...Missing throwout bearing/clutch lever arm assembly...
No one stocks these locally since 6MT is rare in Asia... FML

So... my build is on hold... again... waiting for fucking bolts from ECS Tuning...
 

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AzNdevil

Corporal
Nov 4, 2016
214
Hong Kong
My Car Must Hate Me...

Quick Update...

Car is put back together...Southbend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch!
60a.jpg

60.jpg


Started Once..Left it for two weeks... Wouldn't start again
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DME disappeared from the car for some reason...tried to troubleshoot it for 3 weeks on and off... took it to an electrician and he fixed it within an hour, probably something was left unplugged and no one saw.

Anyways... clutch started clunking and the engagement point was fucked. I installed the throwout bearing following stock setting in high position. Apparently this doesn't work. My engagement is ~0.5cm near the top of the pedal. Fuck. Gearbox needs to come off again...

Oh wait. The inlet is in the way! Fucking hell... my mechanic wrestled with it for 2 hours and gave up.
Conclusion: There just isn't enough space to remove the inlet on a RHD car.
63.jpg


So...out comes the engine.... again...
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Guess what...they managed to put it back in one piece within the day!
65.jpg


BUT.....somehow...the clutch hard line snapped in the process....
So I am stuck waiting for the line to be shipped over....FML

Fucking hell I just want to drive my car...
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AzNdevil

Corporal
Nov 4, 2016
214
Hong Kong
Finally... some more upgrades and problems

Car is MOTed and taxed. Front end respray complete.
66.jpg


Definitely need new tires... Front 255/35/18, Rear 265/35/18 Bridgestone Potenze RE71Rs
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68.jpg


Contacted @WedgePerformance for a remap so... 3.5bar MAP sensor upgrade!
69.jpg


70.jpg


Harness Repin.. was pretty straightforward following the guide at linky
Before:
71a.jpg


After:
71b.jpg


I must say, there just isn't enough room for a diverter setup after all the upgrades. My

Flashed the basemap, took a log: https://datazap.me/u/azndevil/log-1549309904?log=0&data=3-11-19-20
Third gear pull from 2500-7000 rpm... Fuck... Half engine light and cylinder injection cut out? Ken said my LPFP can't handle fuel requested and fuel pressure took a shit. Fuck I left my PR LPFP at my garage... and it's Chinese New Year so they aren't open. I was planning to do the install over holidays... guess that will have to wait.

More issues, front crankshaft seal is leaking like fuck. Bought new seals but ran out of time to do the install... guess that will have to wait until holidays are over... OEM seal on the left, Geniune BMW seal on the right
72.jpg


Some quick reviews after ~350KM
Turner 60A Engine Mounts
Definitely usable for a DD, minimal vibration and stiffer than stock. Would recommend 100%

Southbend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch + MFactory SM Flywheel
Both works as advertised. Clutch holds power just fine as of now. Remember to install the throwout bearing in the HIGH position. Butt dyno says my car is around 400-420 rwhp as of now. Clutch pedal is heavier than stock but I can live with it except for long traffic jams where it will get tiring. Flywheel chatter is annoying as fuck. Car sounds like its broken at idle (I don't want to raise my idle for no good reason). Flywheel also chatters around 80-100 km/h and it does get annoying if I stay at this speed.
 

AzNdevil

Corporal
Nov 4, 2016
214
Hong Kong
My Car Must Hate Me Part 2...

Holidays are over, time replace the crankshaft seal... again..
24742


PR Stage 2 LPFP upgrade... honestly this was such a pain in the ass
for those that haven't done the upgrade... i can totally understand why someone would pay to buy a complete assembly now

Out with the old
24743


In with the new
24744


LPFP upgraded... let's do a pull! Datazap
.......LPFP pressure not tanking now but...fuel rail pressure is still tanking at high RPMs? wtf!
@WedgePerformance thinks my HPFP is taking a dump as well so it needs to be replaced as well

Out with the old
24746


In with the new
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24745


HPFP is replaced!... but work and weather have not been nice to me... so I still haven't got back to him with a new log...

Also replaced the battery for my remote as it has been complaining about low battery
24747


Two weeks later... my gearbox starts whining... seems like the input shaft is leaking gearbox oil as it is pooling and dripping right at the gearbox...
Tried to look around for a service manual and parts to rebuild the box but seems they aren't readily available

So..... I have picked up a used transmission and its being shipped from US to Hong Kong as we speak...this is really starting to become a money pit!!!!! :rage:

Fuck I just want my car to be normal...
 

Torgus

Lieutenant
Nov 6, 2016
826
Boston
Just read the whole thread. Nice car and mods. Glad you have stuck with it, you are almost there. All high quality parts you didn't cheap out and use knock offs or questionable vendors etc.

I think your car is going to be a blast to drive any day now.

Have have had some bad luck it seems but that can just happen with the cars.

Keep up the good fight. Aquamist ftw! Are you going to dyno it once you finish your tune?

How much meth are you spraying in your cp? Which injectors are you using? Just curious.

How do you like the rtd shifter?
 
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AzNdevil

Corporal
Nov 4, 2016
214
Hong Kong
Just read the whole thread. Nice car and mods. Glad you have stuck with it, you are almost there. All high quality parts you didn't cheap out and use knock offs or questionable vendors etc.

I think your car is going to be a blast to drive any day now.

Have have had some bad luck it seems but that can just happen with the cars.

Keep up the good fight. Aquamist ftw! Are you going to dyno it once you finish your tune?

How much meth are you spraying in your cp? Which injectors are you using? Just curious.

How do you like the rtd shifter?
thanks... really appreciate it... this is pretty much a no expense spared project for me...
i can sort of see the light at the other end now...just need to sort the gearbox and hope everythings good

yes i will dyno the car afterwards... but i dont really want to map the car as-is since the gearbox is not in good shape

im not spraying anything at the moment... just want to sort out the car mechanically first before i start messing with other stuff
ive only leak tested the system before everything happened and it was good but didnt get a chance to play with it

the rtd shifter is awesome! its a must have for any 5/6MT BMW if you ask me
ive always hated the original shifter... tried my friend's car with a ssk...it felt worse...
installation is easy if you have a lift... shift feel improved a shit ton... shifter travel is acceptable
but... without all the rubber bits in between the shifter to the gearbox, it does rattle a little bit but i think anyone can live with it
also, you can feel the play/slack in the gearbox which causes the stick to be out of center a little...
if the centering spring is stiffer like CAE then this issue wouldnt exist...at the expense of using more effort to shift
 
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