AzNdevil's RHD 335 6MT Build Thread

Oct 28, 2017
830
Monroe CT
#81
Only question is was your friends car stock or upgraded arms cause i felt huge difference with upgraded arms, just two days ago i was running my friends triumph 600 and a car pulled into left lane at 70 while i was doing 160 around a light curve on a normally safe very high speed rd "traffic is usually 90 to 100 off peak". I gained prob 15 degrees of yaw thought i was going to shoot off rd or have to rear end car but i waited a sec before trying to counter steer and the car settled into slight brake induced oversteer and then slowly got back in shape. point is i have my car perfectly nuetral with slight toe in front and rear and all upgraded suspension bushings 440f 700r and is extremely stable i think it might be worth shot trying little less toe out in front and little less toe in rear to keep your oversteer and add stabilty. Also you could reduce rear camber a little or maybe add little rear bar i just have never had good experience with more than 0 toe in front on any car ive driven. Ymmv but just my 2 cents.
 
Nov 4, 2016
208
Hong Kong
#82
Only question is was your friends car stock or upgraded arms cause i felt huge difference with upgraded arms, just two days ago i was running my friends triumph 600 and a car pulled into left lane at 70 while i was doing 160 around a light curve on a normally safe very high speed rd "traffic is usually 90 to 100 off peak". I gained prob 15 degrees of yaw thought i was going to shoot off rd or have to rear end car but i waited a sec before trying to counter steer and the car settled into slight brake induced oversteer and then slowly got back in shape. point is i have my car perfectly nuetral with slight toe in front and rear and all upgraded suspension bushings 440f 700r and is extremely stable i think it might be worth shot trying little less toe out in front and little less toe in rear to keep your oversteer and add stabilty. Also you could reduce rear camber a little or maybe add little rear bar i just have never had good experience with more than 0 toe in front on any car ive driven. Ymmv but just my 2 cents.
we have similar springs rates... im at 457f 634r...what tires and camber are you on?
i will change the alignment after my car is put together again due to new lsd but havent made my mind up on how to proceed as i havent driven the car for almost a year... and more power + lsd makes it worse

thanks for your opinion... i will keep it in mind :grin:
 
Oct 28, 2017
830
Monroe CT
#83
I just put nt05s on 245/35/19f 275/30/19r on f14 sdc 23 offset front 25 i think rear mind went blank on rear its 25 or 28 and running 1.8 front with 7.3 caster and now have very slight toe in like the smallest could register and 1.5 rear camber with .1 toe in . i finally feel have the car balanced where i feel like its an extension of my arms. I do want to up my camber though i think I'm going to go 1.8 rear and 2.1 front as the balance is perfect also turner adj endlinks dialed in so zero stress on front bar and meyle hd rear end links with quarter inch from m sport height drop in back so slight preload on rear bar helped , when car was lower had little snap to it raising slightly made perfect. When my endlinks were stressed i pushed in turns mid corner unless trail braked then release brake to let front catch, now it's just slow controlled rotation if i exceed grip .
 
Nov 4, 2016
208
Hong Kong
#84
ahh this... my front bars are preloaded at the moment and i got turner adjustable endlinks hoping to fix it as well
i always wondered if this could be causing the understeer at the beginning of the corner

i think you go with 18 inch wheels...everything will change :grimacing: i started off with 19 as well but handling really suffered IMO
 
Oct 28, 2017
830
Monroe CT
#85
ahh this... my front bars are preloaded at the moment and i got turner adjustable endlinks hoping to fix it as well
i always wondered if this could be causing the understeer at the beginning of the corner

i think you go with 18 inch wheels...everything will change :grimacing: i started off with 19 as well but handling really suffered IMO
Your right about the 19s i just love the way they look and the wider tire helps straight line traction. The endlinks though i cannot explain how much of a difference balance and comfort they make ,really brought my suspension together as apackage before them i was regretting my purchase now it's quiet as stock with amazing turn in.
 
Nov 4, 2016
208
Hong Kong
#86
Some more progress...
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Previous Mechanic broke my valve cover when taking the engine out... so I had to replace it.
IMG-20180713-WA0067.jpg

Previous Mechanic asked me to replace the block's freeze plugs so I bought him the parts. He started doing one but couldn't get shit to come up. Current mechanic cleaned up his mess and told me not to bother with them.
IMG-20180713-WA0092.jpg


Previous Mechanic asked to the front and rear crankshaft seals. I asked if he has the tools to do it properly, turns out he didn't and pryed both seals out by force. Edges are scored slightly so I hope it doesn't leak. Bought the proper tools for the current mechanic to do it properly. Only got pics of rear seal being done. My current mechanic kinda hates me for always asking him to take pics.
IMG-20180801-WA0170.jpg

IMG-20180801-WA0169.jpg


RHD turbo outlet pipe is a known piece of shit... I don't want to deal with the silicone replacements available either as the fitment is hit or miss and since I am not doing it myself I don't want it to bite me in the ass in the future. Since I am only aiming for 500-600ish rwhp in the end, I can most likely acheive that with a rewelded pipe. Only opted to completely round out one side and partially round out the other as it sits pretty close to the turbo as is.
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IMG-20180731-WA0173.jpg

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Heres how the stock RHD outlet looks
IMG-20180714-WA0110.jpg


Took old clutch pivot pin out. I was going to go with the aftermarket brass one but google says they suck so I have an OEM stainless steel one on order as we speak. For some reason BMW decides to use SS for only 3 cars. Part Number: 21511223281
ss clutch pivot pin.png


Pilot bearing is still smooth and google tells me not to mess with it unless it's fucked.
59.jpg


Now heres where shit goes wrong... again.
Missing clutch pressure plate bolts...Missing throwout bearing/clutch lever arm assembly...
No one stocks these locally since 6MT is rare in Asia... FML

So... my build is on hold... again... waiting for fucking bolts from ECS Tuning...
 

Attachments

Nov 4, 2016
208
Hong Kong
#88
My Car Must Hate Me...

Quick Update...

Car is put back together...Southbend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch!
60a.jpg

60.jpg


Started Once..Left it for two weeks... Wouldn't start again
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DME disappeared from the car for some reason...tried to troubleshoot it for 3 weeks on and off... took it to an electrician and he fixed it within an hour, probably something was left unplugged and no one saw.

Anyways... clutch started clunking and the engagement point was fucked. I installed the throwout bearing following stock setting in high position. Apparently this doesn't work. My engagement is ~0.5cm near the top of the pedal. Fuck. Gearbox needs to come off again...

Oh wait. The inlet is in the way! Fucking hell... my mechanic wrestled with it for 2 hours and gave up.
Conclusion: There just isn't enough space to remove the inlet on a RHD car.
63.jpg


So...out comes the engine.... again...
64.jpg


Guess what...they managed to put it back in one piece within the day!
65.jpg


BUT.....somehow...the clutch hard line snapped in the process....
So I am stuck waiting for the line to be shipped over....FML

Fucking hell I just want to drive my car...
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