EOSpeed Billet Fuel System Installation

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
7,570
AZ
30668
At the beginning of August I bought the billet fuel system and BPM4 EKP from @EOSpeed and decided to document the process and compile as much of the install as I can remember into a guide. Currently this is an 'off-menu' item you can only order by contacting them directly and there is not much information out there on it so I felt like I'd break the ice.

The reason I got this fuel system was because it completely dumps the OEM plastic bits and mess of hoses/venturis and replaces it with quite literally a fully billet setup that is confidence inspiring and just as amazing to admire and hold. Even the venturis are integrated into the design, rather than existing as zip tied external components with plastic hoses going back and forth. The net result is a massive upgrade in properly bucketed fuel capacity while reducing the complexity of the fuel system plumbing simultaneously. Everything together makes it feel like a truly complete kit and since the parts are designed around the factory system, you can buy the hats and bucket individually and upgrade singular pieces. This is particularly thoughtful as many of you already have some fuel system upgrades in place and may be interested in only one or two pieces.

If you want to upgrade the factory fuel system design without deleting or relocating things, this accomplishes that goal and eliminates the restrictions all the way up to your HPFP. From the three pump LPFP manifold over to the FPR hat, up to the HPFP is 8AN. They do include all of this hose, properly cut to length and provided is an 8AN to 6AN Y block in a convenient location under the car for connecting a flex fuel sensor. These 6AN lines are then able to feed your HPFP and PI individually. I did not need to make any adjustments to the lengths of these hoses, thankfully they hooked right up and were cut to the correct length. One 6AN line goes to the flex fuel sensor and then to the HPFP, the other hose runs up to the engine bay and has a 6AN plug since I'm not using my PI, yet. The billet bucket accepts the 3x LPFP holder which can be configured with up to 3x walbro 450's (or 525's) and these flow into a single billet manifold with an 8 AN port. This routes across to the driver side hat with serviceable filter and adjustable FPR and the outlet remains 8AN headed to the front of the car.

Tips:

ALL: Drive your car until the gas light comes on so the fuel level is low. When ethanol touches your skin it can give a burning sensation so wear some gloves as well. Disconnect the battery(after moving your seats), maintain good ventilation and do not use an open flame while performing this work.

E93: For more room, you may optionally put the roof halfway down. This may present an issue if your garage has a low roof, just make sure you have easy access to the battery and trunk area because you can't open or close the roof with the battery disconnected and the EKP installation will require some access to the trunk if you decide to do this all at once.
 

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
7,570
AZ
Remove old fuel system

Move both your seats as far forward as they will go, we will be working on both sides. Then disconnect negative battery terminal.
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Remove rear seat cushion and take off the four nuts holding the LPFP cover plate. Remove two electrical connectors by squeezing the outside edges and lifting up. Optional: Enjoy the standing head room
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Remove the two hose connections by pressing inward from the FRONT which expands two teeth and allows you to slide the connectors up:
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Remove top hat lock ring with spanner tool
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Lift up on top hat and expose another hose connection. Remove it by pressing on the front of the connector which is now probably facing away from you and pull hose down and off.
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The hat rails should slide up out of the bucket, if not unplug/disconnect any hoses that might be in the way. Remove two electrical connectors from the bottom of the hat by squeezing the clip on back and pulling. There may be a black leash which you can cut off. The top hat should be free so set that aside
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Depending on which fuel pump you have, it may be necessary to disconnect a hose or two and then you can lift the fuel pump assembly(bucket bracket pumps) out of the tank. Be sure to dump any fuel back into the tank before lifting out

Now move over to the passenger side and proceed the same way.
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After you remove the fuel level sensor connector, you'll need to remove your LP feed line hose with a clip you must hold in place while you pull the hose out and back.
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Once the lock ring is removed you can lift up on the top hat and you'll have visibility on all the parts underneath. Remove the white connector by unclipping the sides
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Then cut the orange hose off because we are not reusing this stuff and makes it easier:
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The driver side assembly should now come out. Be sure to let the fuel drain out from the filter inside back into the tank and prevent fuel from spilling inside the cabin. Pull the driver side top hat out including the three hoses that run over to the passenger side.
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
7,570
AZ
Transfer fuel level sensors to new hats

Now we just need to remove the sensors from the stock hats and transfer them to the new ones. Grab the driver side top hat(with integrated regulator and filter) and use a flat head screw driver to remove the fuel level sensor(black plastic float with metal arm) from the hat.
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There is a spring loaded retractable plastic arm that is inserted into the hat and held on with a simple tab. Push the tab in and pull it out or just break the hat clip and remove the level sensor arm since we won't be using the hat anymore(it is not serviceable and probably needs replaced anyway).
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Now on the bottom there should be one wire which you can remove from the regulator. This wire continues up toward the hat, follow this wire up as far as you can go and cut the wires near the top hat. We want these wires to be as long as possible. I made a mistake and cut them both near the first connector and this isn't long enough to reach the new top hat which caused me unnecessary trips to the store for solder and wires. Do NOT do this:
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When done, this is the part we need:
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Grab the new top hat with regulator and partially insert the level sensor arm into it. Don't seat it all the way but place it there so you can see how long the wires need to be plus a little slack.
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Now grab one of the bags with the male pins, the plastic connector, two screws and rubber gasket. There should be two of these bags, one for wiring the level sensor on each hat. (There will be two more bags with female pins and they are for adding matching connectors to the vehicle side of each hat)
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Strip and even up the lengths of wire coming off the level sensor, crimp on the pins with an open barrel crimper and apply heat shrink without going too far onto the pin.
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Insert a pin into either hole of the connector. The level sensor is a resistance reading so it doesn't matter which one. If you look inside you'll see a groove on one side which you match to the pin. Once it is inserted far enough you'll hear it click and it won't come back out.
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With the gasket in place, put the connector up into the top hat, it doesn't matter which direction, then use the provided screws to tighten it down. Set this hat aside because we are done with it for now.
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Remove the other level sensor from the passenger side hat/bucket and once again cut the wires off near the connector so the wire is long.
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Grab the second bag with the male pins then crimp, heat shrink, and insert the pins into the black connector then secure the black connector to the hat with the two screws.
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Get the new bucket and top hat and use the provided screws(screwed into the bucket itself) to fasten the level sensor to the bucket. Be sure the level sensor is seated all the way down and able to swing freely.
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The fuel pump came pre-assembled so I did not need to touch the holder, manifold or bucket. The wiring may look intimidating, but the only ones we care about are these two green ones for the fuel level sensor. The other six wires are just the power and ground for the up to 3x pumps which you may be using. I only have a single 525 so I ignored four of those wires.
 
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
7,570
AZ
Install Driver Hat

Grab the 27" 8 AN hose and run it from the driver side to the passenger side inside the tank, keeping the 90* fitting on the driver side. You can drop this fitting into the tank to make the next step easier, but getting it again can be a pain if you have big hands.
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You can proceed to install the driver hat in two ways depending on which you find easier. When the instructions refer to the 'corrugated black waste hose', it is the hose that should already be fastened to the bottom of the hat near the sock pickup and it dumps excess fuel back into the bucket on the other side:
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Method 1:
Fully snap the white level sensor arm into the hat. This is a one way street because taking it back out is likely very difficult due to the stiff plastic. Remove the black level sensor from the white, spring loaded arm. Run the black waste hose across to the passenger side. Begin to insert the hat into the tank until the plastic arm begins to interfere:
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Now reach into the tank and grab the 8AN hose you dropped in earlier and tighten it to the bottom of the filter so it points toward the passenger side. When start working on the other side, you may notice that hose length is at a premium so make sure this is angled correctly.
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Retract the white spring loaded arm all the way, then put the spinning float end of the level sensor into the tank first and then snap the sensor itself back into place on the white spring loaded arm. Be mindful of the wires by snapping in the front half of the sensor, then slide it forward so the wires are in the groove:
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The top hat should now go into the tank without much issue.
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Method 2:
Remove the white retracting arm (with black level sensor connected) from the top hat and put the arm and sensor down into the tank. Locate the black, corrugated waste return line on the bottom of the driver hat and run it through the tank across to the passenger side. Lower the top hat into the tank only enough to secure the 8AN 90* fitting to the bottom of the filter. Do not over tighten. Reattach the white plastic arm level sensor assembly back into the top hat. Make sure it snaps in fully.
Get the 90 degree 8AN ORB from the packaging and connect it to top hat, do not tighten all the way down. Back the fitting off from fully seated 1 turn or so, make sure its angled in the direction your line will be running and then use the given nut to tighten things down which will seal the oring. It is not necessary to do all of this right now unless you know where the hose is going to run. Do not fasten the lock ring yet.
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Cut the connector from the fuel level sensor wire:
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Strip, crimp and shrink:
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Then push the female pins into the back of the plug through the rubber seals. You might want to grab some pliars and pop off the front so you can see what you're doing:
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Now you're done on this side.
 
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
7,570
AZ
Install Passenger Hat and Bucket

Now go get the passenger hat and bucket then insert the bucket into the tank and connect the 8AN hose to the pump manifold fitting. Make a note about which wire is connected to which pump so you can wire the pigtail on top correctly later on.
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Ensure the plastic waste hose you ran across through the inside of the tank pours into the bucket and secure it with a zip tie. I chose to connect mine to the 8AN line, be sure to rotate the waste hose below the 8AN line so there is room for the top hat's rails to slide into the bucket holes.
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Insert the top hat into the bucket holes and connect the black evap hose that was already in the tank to the bottom of the top hat. This will require some adjusting of the hat/bucket angle in order to do this. You may need to have the connector mostly in the tank with the bucket tipped backward a bit so you can snap it on.
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Double check the wires to make sure they aren't pinched and that the hat rails are in the bucket correctly. This can be hard to see but the bucket should rock back and for with the hat as one unit.

Secure both hats by rotating them so it fall into place and then secure them with the lock rings. On the top of the passenger hat, reconnect the evap hose and the fuel tank vent line(the smaller one).
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This is what it should look like:
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Convert the passenger side fuel level sensor to the new connector and wire up your fuel pump wires to your power source. For me this was a BPM4 EKP which I will make a separate guide for:
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Ensure all connectors are secured and put the plates back on. The rest of the work should be self-explanatory.
 
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
7,570
AZ
Install low pressure feed line

Remove the under body panels on the driver side from the rear tire up to the front. You should see the OEM fuel line go up by the fuel tank up to where it was connected to the old hat:
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Fish the 8AN hose down the side of the fuel tank in the same direction as the OEM line then cut/rip out the oem line so it isn't in the way, be wary of excess fuel spilling out:
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Fasten the fuel line to the 90* fitting and tighten the fitting to the hat:
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I decided to run the new fuel line where the old one went:
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This meant I needed to modify the existing brackets with a box cutter to accept the wider hose:
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Connect the 8AN to 6AN Y block:
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I used this chance to install a flex fuel sensor that has been sitting on my shelf since that products launch:

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These two 6AN hoses go to your HPFP and PI if you have it otherwise you can insert a plug.

-----

The only other thing I didn't cover is adjusting the FPR. Once you have everything installed, start the car up and adjust this dial until you get 72 psi low pressure. If your car doesn't want to start up, you may need to tighten this up so enough pressure makes it to your HPFP.
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If you have a BPM4 EKP the wiring for that is pretty simple and is mostly just dependent on which car you have, I'll be covering that in another guide.

BPM4 Install: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/bpm4-ekp-installation-for-e93.5584/
 

scrllock

Corporal
Dec 17, 2018
152
Awaiting my new tophat myself, great writeup!

I know you said you're doing another guide, but did you just cut the oem lpfp power line and pull it out of that grommet? I left mine in just for ease of going back to stock but once I add wiring for my second pump it looks like that's a whole second set of thick gauge wire, even with the new tophat connector. Probably going to have to take my oem wiring out then, good to know.
 
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
7,570
AZ
Awaiting my new tophat myself, great writeup!

I know you said you're doing another guide, but did you just cut the oem lpfp power line and pull it out of that grommet? I left mine in just for ease of going back to stock but once I add wiring for my second pump it looks like that's a whole second set of thick gauge wire, even with the new tophat connector. Probably going to have to take my oem wiring out then, good to know.
I cut the rubber hose and yeah the connector got cut also. The wire that goes to that connector you remove anyway, it would just be dangling. If you want a third pump, I think I recall hearing that it requires a daughter board for those power outputs and it would be a third set of wires coming through there, so yeah just remove it.

 
Last edited:

scrllock

Corporal
Dec 17, 2018
152
I was quoted "about $2300" back in June for the full system as configured here, though wasn't clear if that included pumps too or not. Billet is $$
 
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