Hydra outlet design ideas "completed"

Rob09msport

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I already did adaptations and I'm glad I did cause was shifting rough and with the different clutch material I think its necessary. I flashed to stock to do the adaptations. I wasnt sure if that should be stage 3 or not but I figured if it trying to adapt on stage 3 with the raised line pressures it might over compensate so that was my logic. More important is should I be changing fluid and filter again In 500 to 1000 miles.
 
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Figured I should post this here as well, more updates to come real soon :)

27428
 

fmorelli

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It's easily deduced by looking at it, and common for many applications.

Filippo
 

Rob09msport

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It has not been confirmed whether this was a 300F coupler or not. That is on you.
That looks like the actual silicone burned which takes 600 degrees roughly "for good quality silicone to burn" so that was direct contact most likely and would happen to any silicone all assumptions but looks like that's the case anyway
 
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Rob@RBTurbo

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It's easily deduced by looking at it, and common for many applications.

Filippo

We have found over the years in this platform (especially in the turbocharging areas) that the community has a very hard time looking at any picture and deducing what is what. You'll likely need some experts in the field, along with extensive lab testing, all combined with a final buy in from the providing vendor in order to get any support on this one.:laughing:

Rob
 

fmorelli

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Nothing wrong with couplers, IMHO - standard issue on most applications across lots of car models and upgrades. They should work fine in most cases, and in a price sensitive market upgrading those couplers just eats at price for not a very good return for most buyers. But if you are rolling your own and care, you can buy the added insurance of a higher temp coupler.

Filippo
 

fmorelli

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We have found over the years in this platform (especially in the turbocharging areas) that the community has a very hard time looking at any picture and deducing what is what. You'll likely need some experts in the field, along with extensive lab testing, all combined with a final buy in from the providing vendor in order to get any support on this one.:laughing:
I saw an M12x1.25 bolt on the Internet once. I think ... :tongueout:

Filippo
 

Asbjorn

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It's easily deduced by looking at it, and common for many applications.

Filippo

How do you easily deduce that? I have bought alot of silicone tubes in China and while I know they exist, I have never been sold a 300F type. I can't tell the difference between what you claim is a 300F type and the higher grades below, and the pricing is very low anyhow.

IMG_20190528_214134.jpg


The VTT hose that melted was too close to a clamp which might have been an installation fault on my behalf. I don't feel comfortable that we make conclusions about VTTs quality (ie temp rating) based on this unless you have proof? Im really curious.

PS my point here is also that one should not simply buy better silicone, but alsp think about heat shielding and, even better, avoiding it instead.
 
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fmorelli

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VTT did nothing wrong. Straw man argument. I'm also a fan of their work - they've been pushing solution envelope on this platform and I'm a fan.

That's my last post on this commentary, as it has nothing to do with advancing the thread.

Filippo
 

Rob09msport

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Yes the outlets are complete . We are draining tranny and putting new filter on Thursday ,cause I had a solenoid that had debris on it causing my weird noise on shifts so I had to drop tranny and bring to the installer. Took apart and cleaned but we are running it on mild boost and doing adaptations before pushing. I currently have slight issue where if you come to a stop very slowly and engine is at idle it drops into 1st and it makes a clunk and jerk. When cold doesnt happen and when you stop med to hard it shifts into first after you are stopped. If everything else is well when we check fluid I will chalk up to the stronger pd clutches and tune my 2 to 1 shiftpoint down so it def doesnt go into first until completely stopped. My a clutch is positive 14 ms so I do believe trans may be adapting to it hopefully but will see. Sorry for long post but that is reason I havent boost tested or ran dyno yet but I am driving car and it is together. I did hook up others with the info but last i heard they were trying to talk down the fabricator when i thought 300 was very fair price for custom outlets
 

fmorelli

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$300 for metal outlets that work ... very fair. Good luck on the rest - sounds like you are on top of it.

Filippo
 

Rob09msport

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Thankyou I plan on updating with my results when dyno done I can take engine bay pics if anyone want I also may be switching my couplers lmao so I will have my inlets off and have much better view for everyone. My OCD doesnt like having hps mixed with other brands lol.
 

ShocknAwe

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Thanks again for doing this Rob. I think $300 is VERY reasonable for a limited run custom metal outlet.

I ended up going with the metal redirected Hydra outlets. Starting to look like everything above the long block is gonna be Hydra at some point soon heh.
 
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Rob09msport

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How do you easily deduce that? I have bought alot of silicone tubes in China and while I know they exist, I have never been sold a 300F type. I can't tell the difference between what you claim is a 300F type and the higher grades below, and the pricing is very low anyhow.

View attachment 27492

The VTT hose that melted was too close to a clamp which might have been an installation fault on my behalf. I don't feel comfortable that we make conclusions about VTTs quality (ie temp rating) based on this unless you have proof? Im really curious.

PS my point here is also that one should not simply buy better silicone, but alsp think about heat shielding and, even better, avoiding it instead.
Wanted to let you know those are all 300 degrees technically as that's the point that the poly weave melts. Only thing higher is kevlar aka aramid those are the 500f. The actual silicone is stable to around 600.
 
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Rob09msport

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I believe nylon has even lower failure temp as it loses all strength at like 275. This is info from a reliable brand on the poly and kevlar temp ratings.
 

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