Rob09msport

Captain
Oct 28, 2017
1,176
Monroe CT
I only got hundred miles on tranny so I wasnt going hard but i noticed a slight siren sound it started changing and it not loud and only at above 10psi I thinking maybe boost leak but my boost was in check with target and it also happened off throttle so maybe bov leaking or vac line idk.
 

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Hydra Performance

Sergeant
Free Vendor
Jan 31, 2017
258
Sounds like a boost leak somewhere Rob... On an unrelated note, here is the pattern for the mold I'm making for the outlet merge casting, mold is being CNC'd as we speak :)

27427
 

Rob09msport

Captain
Oct 28, 2017
1,176
Monroe CT
Looks great and I am wondering if could be my n20 sensor cause I changed that after the system was checked for leaks so that's the only thing i dont know if i was supposed to live the o ring cause was really tight hopefully didnt tear
 
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Asbjorn

Sergeant
Mar 10, 2018
292
Europe, based in China
Looks great and I am wondering if could be my n20 sensor cause I changed that after the system was checked for leaks so that's the only thing i dont know if i was supposed to live the o ring cause was really tight hopefully didnt tear
I have had so many problems with my tmap leaking after swapping to n20. Swapped O-rings maybe a thousand times. They would often come out torn. Eventually had to seal it all up the hard way, and even used loctite on the bolt threads. I use the ER chargepipe - finally diagnosed with faulty Tmap housing.

No matter how my tmap leaked, it never had the siren sound you posted in the video. On my car, when it leaks I typically see boost 0.5-2psi below normal up top and increased wgdc at all rpm.
 

Rob09msport

Captain
Oct 28, 2017
1,176
Monroe CT
It was I switched o rings with my stock one I tore the new one it was really tight and I brain farted so it tore. I used a little suspension grease and all seems well so far I think I may use a small bit of silicone to lube then seal it in if I find any type of future leak. And 2 psi no wonder you didnt here sound probably would been boat horn that's alot of air to be leaking.
Still heard slight little sound but I dont think it leaking i think was just turbos I'm going to put vaseline around and see if still leaking
 

Rob09msport

Captain
Oct 28, 2017
1,176
Monroe CT
Honestly turbos feel amazing on rev 1 already anyway I cant believe how nice it is to pull to redline it just pulls harder and harder feels more akin to roller coaster than car lol
Edit
I don't hear any more sounds under boost but if I am light to medium throttle on the 1 to 2 shift it sounds like a zipper I thought was belt rubbing but I checked clearance looks good and no mark. So now I dont know if could be bov maybe i need lighter spring? Or could it be my transmission. I have a tial bov with braided 4 dash hose and an fittings and the spring that comes with n54 kits I know some say go lighter but I never had issue before
That's video of sound
 
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Hydra Performance

Sergeant
Free Vendor
Jan 31, 2017
258
BOV should be shut at WOT regardless of spring, so that shouldn't be a source of leaks. Would it be fair to say that there's little to no difference in response between the 650s and the stockers?
 

Rob09msport

Captain
Oct 28, 2017
1,176
Monroe CT
BOV should be shut at WOT regardless of spring, so that shouldn't be a source of leaks. Would it be fair to say that there's little to no difference in response between the 650s and the stockers?
Honestly it actually feels better when lugging in high gear and for those that get the difference, lag is less but spool is prob 2 or 300 rpm higher for full boost and they dont have that light switch or rubberband feel at all.
Put it this way I am happy with my choice but I'm pretty sure i would been good with the 800s to and I'm picky. I'm currently not using linear throttle and I still feel I have more control in a corner. I only skated few turns so far cause i dont want blow anything up but with my stockers which only had 15k on them at end. I would hit it and then I really had to back off cause torque hit then get back in hard cause boost fall off. With these it's just a linear climb in hp like you feel an increase in acceleration but I bet the torque curve looks like a table.
My bov is shut at idle and opens perfect even when I have my wife free rev and let off while its parked. This sound really getting to me cause everything else seems perfect I made video with windows up cause can hear better. Any ideas could it be transmission related?
Sorry about Mickey in background my 5 yr old was in back seat cause I haven't had my car together for 2 months.
 

Hydra Performance

Sergeant
Free Vendor
Jan 31, 2017
258
Datalogs don't tell the whole story, if boost threshold is 200-300rpm slower than stock you're still making more torque at lower boost than on the stockers, so the actual delta you feel while driving is minimal. I've said it before and I'll say it again, the HP650s (or a turbo of similar size/capacity) are a factory-perfect match for the N54, i.e. they could have made a high performance variant set up like that from the factory. That's just my 0.02c though :)
 

Hydra Performance

Sergeant
Free Vendor
Jan 31, 2017
258
I know I still haven't posted any videos or datalogs of my car yet, but take my word for it, its an absolute demon at just 17-19psi. Spins 3rd all the way to the 8k redline and pulls hard at anything over 3k, MASSIVE powerband... I've had 2 different friends tell me that it pulls harder in 6th than their cars (cammed E46 M3 with gears and FBO F58 Mini Cooper S JCW) do in 3rd. I really do need to get off my ass and post flybys, onboards, dash vids, etc to give y'all a feel for the thing. All on straight 98RON (93 stateside) gasoline, no meth...
 
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Rob09msport

Captain
Oct 28, 2017
1,176
Monroe CT
Datalogs don't tell the whole story, if boost threshold is 200-300rpm slower than stock you're still making more torque at lower boost than on the stockers, so the actual delta you feel while driving is minimal. I've said it before and I'll say it again, the HP650s (or a turbo of similar size/capacity) are a factory-perfect match for the N54, i.e. they could have made a high performance variant set up like that from the factory. That's just my 0.02c though :)
I hundred percent agree that's what I was trying to describe cause if I'm at say 3 grand part throttle or even on and off it actually feels more like a ati pro charger than what alot of turbos feel like. 100 plus acceleration is insane 4th feels like 3rd did and I dont even think I'm breaking 20 psi yet lmao
 

JBacon335

Corporal
Nov 7, 2016
142
Brick, NJ
I can't wait to get mine on, I plan on 20-21 psi to redline on my daily driver. It should put a hurting to a lot of unsuspecting victims
 

Hydra Performance

Sergeant
Free Vendor
Jan 31, 2017
258
With all this talk about hybrid twin power outputs & longevity etc. I figured I would share some interesting datapoints with y'all:

Been doing a bunch of logging lately, trying out different things, and putting more mileage on my setup. Hard to believe I've driven this thing for 8000km since February, and its provided pretty reliable service so far, apart from a duff Delphi ignition coil, a dead VANOS solenoid, and an exploded LSD lol

Car currently goes through 1L of oil every ~3200km, which is outstanding considering the 8000rpm redline it sees on a daily basis. Bottom end is still on its ORIGINAL piston rings, I just changed out the bearings and crankshaft when I spun a bearing back in the day. Initially ran Motul X-Cess 8100 5W-40, but switched to 5W-40 Shell Helix Ultra last time around. Wish I could say the same about its thirst for tires and fuel though :D

I am able to run a metric shitton of timing on straight gasoline with minimal corrections to speak of. As is in mid to high teens at 19psi. Again, I am running a stock bottom end with a converted N53 head, Schrick Hi-lift cams, and a +0.3mm thicker HG for a calculated CR of 10.0:1. Cranking compression is 185psi cold FWIW. The increased timing I am running may have softened boost onset vs. rpm a bit, but I assure you that torque vs time is better that way. Car feels playful/light on its feet and is very eager to break traction with the application of throttle.

HPFP is crashing at much above 18psi on straight gasoline (98RON, minimal ethanol content) despite running a new pump, drilled rail, and pre-filter removed. I'm guessing this means I'm making a fair bit of power. In fact, I estimate its making 640+ bhp SAE @ 18psi - not too shabby if I do say so myself. I haven't put this thing on a dyno yet because the plan was to go for kill mode and see what this thing can do maxed out; but in the absence of a satisfactory (to me) DI fueling solution I will simply have to content myself with the status quo - not that I'm complaining of course :)


Here's a log of a 4th gear pull I recorded on a flat coastal highway on Monday, running a temporary/experimental map. Ambient conditions were warm and humid, and performance measurement wasn't on my mind at the time. Out of curiosity, I later worked back from RPM vs time, and knowing my gear ratios calculated my 100-200 time at 5.9-6.0s which is made all the more impressive when you consider I broke traction at the beginning of that pull, in 4th gear, running AR-1 semislicks :p ... I'll eventually do a proper dragy run later on, but it is very clear that there is a LOT of potential in this car, and I doubt you will find anyone else going faster on a stock fuel system or running straight gasoline.


27672
 
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Dracula

New Member
Mar 5, 2018
3
I've decided to create a thread to chronicle all the updates and developments I've put together for my 1er over the past few months. I've given much thought to improving several aspects of our driveline, and came up with several useful observations and - dare I say - new ways of doing things that I figured I would share with the community. So without further ado, here goes:



N53 head + Schrick cams

The biggest bottleneck in the N54 when it comes to making power lies in its cylinder head design. Optimized for peak torque at very low-rpm, it becomes more and more of a restriction as more air is pumped through the motor with increasing piston speeds and pressure ratios. Even porting it for all its worth isn't enough, as the exhaust port outlet is simply too small @32mm ID for a 500cc cylinder, leading to choked flow and excessive pumping losses on the exhaust stroke. The Mitsubishi 4B11 on the other hand (a good example of a modern high-performance 500cc/cyl FI design with similarly sized exhaust valves) runs the equivalent of a 36mm exhaust port, just for the sake of comparison... The intake side isn't all that much better, with a 22.x mm venturi feeding a 31.4mm intake valve, with a horrible short-side radius which really kills high(er) lift flow on the N54 head, far from ideal once Schrick cams come into the picture... So I looked at other BMW NG6 cylinders heads for inspiration. The N52 comes with a very nice CNC ported head, a la S54, but lacks provisions for DI. Now the N53 on the other hand, available in a 90PS/L variant in its ultimate form, runs bigger valves than the N54, and best of all runs the very same DI hardware we do. So I figured surely this was worth a closer look, and went out and procured one to see for myself, and what I found was very encouraging. Pros : +0.6mm intake valves, +1mm exhaust valves, +4mm exhaust ports, 28.x mm venturi on the intake ports (ideal for a 32mm valve), and a nice sharp recessed divider on the intake ports, similar to what you would see on a modern bike engine. Best of all, stock N54 intake manifold bolts right up! Cons: Coolant passages in the deck are different, exhaust manifold flange is different, meaning custom exhaust manifolds are a must, head bolt holes are 1mm too small a la N52, and custom washers for the head bolts need to be made. So it became clear to me that I would have to do whatever it takes to make this work, as the pros easily outweighed the cons in my mind. Of course having a shop complete with machinist and fabricator might have had something to do with it.. :)

Unfortunately, for reasons which escape me, I did not document this process and only have 1x photo of the (as yet unassembled) head before it went on the motor... I will have more in the near future as I am preparing two more of these heads to go out to customers in the US, one of whom will put it on a flowbench to compare with his existing ported N54 head, I am expecting ~23x cfm @ 0.45" lift @ 28" on the intake, and ~185 on the exhaust, so watch this space!

View attachment 16781
View attachment 16782
Do you sell these heads I'm highly interested...
 

LazyK

Lurker
May 6, 2018
12
SS Turbo Heatshield & Outlet

In the interests of minimizing radiant heat within the engine bay, my buddy @frontside0815 @ 55Parts.de inspired me to design a 0.6mm thick mirror-polished (on the inside surface) stainless steel heatshield to box in as much of the hotparts as practical, and also wrapped the downpipes for good measure to further help keep underhood temps down. I made a pilot batch of 10 of these heatshields if anyone is interested, fits right on top of the OE solenoid heatshield bracket - PM for details..

Also designed my own outlet, with full flow 1.75" ID connections, with a good shallow-angle merge into a 2.5" ID, and wrapped the whole thing in gold foil for good measure. Fits very well onto the car, and will never burn up due to being very far from any major heat sources.


View attachment 16794
View attachment 16795

View attachment 16793

Do you have e any of these heat shields for sale ?
 
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