In the context of a streetable HPDE/Time Trial car being used on a race track... the engine/transmission assembly moves around a lot in relation to the FMIC that is mounted to the chassis. This pulls and tugs on the outlets. If they are aluminum then it is not a matter of if they will crack, its a matter of when. In cases like this I trade the extra weight for the longevity. Its a 3000+ lb car and a few extra pounds for this application is negligible. You also get the added bonus that stainless has lower thermal conductivity than aluminum.What's the purpose of stainless steel outlets? To me that's excess weight over aluminum.
Hydra is sending me an adapter. However if their is a 2 inch outlet I can purchase i think in would rather so I may wait for his as he only had 3 when I made my order so I didn't want to be a pain.Can you even run the vtt silicone outlets with these? I thought vtt only had 1.5" outlets and these use 2" outlets don't they?
Do you know what the primary size will be cause the turbos fit 2 inch od but hydra told me anything bigger then 1.75 is of no benefit. I would think optimal primary would be no transition at all for internal diameter.Damn straight. But ... perseverance ... ;-)
You def seem to have more knowledge and intuition then most so at risk of you flaming me here goes. Do you think hump hose has any effect on flow ? Prob so miniscule if yes that no measurable diff correct ?Understood, and although I disagree about the charge pipes cracking, it won't be but a few extra pounds. The idea is that the outlets, not being a stressed component, shouldn't ever have stress that isn't taken up by the silicone/rubber to the FMIC. But on stock engine mounts, even aftermarket ones, the motor does move around quite a bit.
You are on point about the hump hoses however. The N54 cars are notorious for breaking charge pipes, and the results can be catastrophic, even moreso since we have twins. I have always struggled with breaking charge pipes on this car (Silicone), and that's one thing I'm going to incorporate when I put mine back together is hump hoses. Especially since my outlets don't have any flexibility until the FMIC (They are V-band mounted to the compressors). But I also don't road race this car, because track + N54 = Blowed up N54 hahaha.
Im doing the same thing, the only torque spec I could find was 42-43 ft lbs. I'm using these with King bearings, are these specs ok, or did you do something else?The ARP kit is specifically for other BMW applications, not the N54. ARP doesn't make an N54 spec kit. I'm not sure how much this matters though.
I am using ARP rod bolts on my stock-rod N54, so we'll see I guess.
The hump hose itself shouldn’t cause any turbulence as the bead rolls on the tubing fit inside the hump and the straight ends of the tubing should butt together, or nearly touch. If the coupler isn’t fitted this way, then the band clamps won’t be on the correct side of the bead roll to hold the tubing inside the coupler.Thanks for the compliment, and no risk of flaming, the point of these forums is to share knowledge and learn.
It absolutely does cause turbulence, and thus a negative impact on flow. However the effect would be negligible, you'd never notice or be able to accurately measure it. Like you said, miniscule. And normally I'm a huge proponent of "You can't cut pounds without cutting grams," but I've had so many problems with N54 charge pipes that I'll take the hit in the name of it being more dependable.