DIY Low-side PCV installation (E89 Z4)

fmorelli

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Low side: @vargasturbo -8an PCV fitting to -8AN hose with a @toyota 2jz PCV valve mounted in-line vertically before the CC (cant see it in the video)
Can you shoot a photo of the 2jz PCV valve connected in line?

Thanks, Filippo
 

BrazyN54

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Jun 1, 2018
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Can you shoot a photo of the 2jz PCV valve connected in line?

Thanks, Filippo
Wondering the same thing, I guess you could stuff it inside 8an sized hose and have it hidden since the bigger side of the pcv is 1/2”.
 

Panzerfaust

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Can you shoot a photo of the 2jz PCV valve connected in line?

Thanks, Filippo
Wondering the same thing, I guess you could stuff it inside 8an sized hose and have it hidden since the bigger side of the pcv is 1/2”.
Bingo. It's a stock 2jz valve, not an "upgraded n54" valve so theres no big metal piece around the diameter. The hoses fit very very snugly over it (iirc I used a tad bit of engine oil to slip it in), and then I used a thin layer of black self-adhesive sealing tape with a high PSI holding rate over the split in the hose just to ensure it had an airtight seal.

Maybe its overkill running it like that, as per @Rob@RBTurbo 's thinking, but I will stand by my first-hand experience and tests for my own peace of mind that the valve operates better in the vertical position like on the engines it comes from than horizontally. I know most dont have any issue (or at least havent *seen* one), but when I posted my results of using an air compressor on it in different positions both on here and on FB I had a few others come forward and say they noticed the same but still run it that way. Once in a while when someone posts a new engine build they mention something similar while testing the PCV system too, so I dont think I'm 100% crazy/alone in that.

I will try my best to get more detailed pictures of my setup sometime in the next few days, but my car is in storage at the garage at my old apartment complex ~30 miles away until the warm weather decides to stick around in Chicago.
 

NoQuarter

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Thoughts on the orientation of the flapper valve and the hose rising up to the catch can?

I'm not sure of the effectiveness of the flapper in this orientation. and with the hose rising up, it seems oil will pool in the flapper assembly.

27064
 
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fmorelli

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Thoughts on the orientation of the flapper valve and the hose rising up to the catch can?
I'm not sure of the effectiveness of the flapper in this orientation. and with the hose rising up, it seems oil will pool in the flapper assembly.
Let's have the master weigh in. @Rob@RBTurbo ?

I thought the flapper was to deal with the diverter valve opening up, so positive pressure is not introduced, but I suspect it may be more nuanced. I would also imagine we are dealing with vaporized oil so hose orientation should not be a big issue.

Filippo
 

Panzerfaust

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Too bad the video is no longer available
Unfortunately the only way I could get the video to work on the forums at the time was by uploading to FB, but I've since put my FB settings to all private. The video and same breakdown is available on my IG still (@sleepinbimmer) and I can look at getting it uploaded to YouTube later. My long drawn out writing style should break it down enough for most people, especially with Filippo providing pictures for how the majority of my low side is set up too (except I used a TB adapter instead of tapping the IM, and used a genuine Mishimoto catch can per advice of Rob Beck at the time of doing my low side).
 
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Trowy88

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Hi guys, so I’ve purchased and installed the VTT external pcv and flapper delete fittings and routed each line to its own catch can with the return line on the flapper side returning to the rear turbo inlet pipe, and on the PCV side having a check valve in line to the intake manifold where I have tapped for an AN-10 bulkhead fitting to attach my AN-10 hose and fittings to.
I did this at the same time as replacing my valve cover gasket when I also drilled, tapped and plugged the head ports.

anyway since doing thisI now am getting a 2D2E Throttle-valve angle- intake manifold vacuum, correlation. This causes the car to have a huge delay when trying to take off from a stop. Once at WOT the car seems to drive fine however at a set speed with no Increased throttle Input the revs go up and down slightly giving slight jerkiness while at the constant speed.

i have contacted VVT who have told me that the only way to properly have this system routed is back to the side of the throttle body on the fuel tank vent valve line (which I did not know at the time that they have a fitting for or else I’d have purchased that at the same time and not stuffed around with drilling the intake manifold)

what I’d like to ask the OP or anyone else running same setup as myself is did you get the same issues with 2D2E code and if I were to cap off my intake manifold bulkhead and purchase this fitting that attaches onto the side of the t body, will this get rid of my issues? Or is returning that line to the intake manifold as OP has perfectly fine?

I’d love to hear any advice before I spend more time and $ trying to solve this issue.

please see attached diagram of my setup.

thanks
Daniel
 

Trowy88

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Apr 18, 2020
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Your missing the high side factory flapper valve that's why your getting the code.

thanks for your reply.

okay I had been told to re install the flapper to see if that sorts the issue however I don’t understand why there is a flapper delete fitting if you get issues by deleting the flapper??

also I can’t easily install the factory flapper as all my lines are braided stainless AN-10 hose and fittings which cannot really connect onto the flapper unless I do a dodgy connection pushing some AN fittings into the flapper and seal it with some sort of sealant.
But again this defeats having a “flapper delete” setup. I could have just left the factory flapper and line coming out of the valve cover and routed it directly to the can and then out of the can into the rear turbo inlet.

any suggestions on what else I can do? Would just installing a non return valve on line leading to the rear turbo inlet work? Or does it have to be the flapper which has the ability to have flow in both directions with its small hole?

cheers
 

martymil

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You have to either reuse your flapper valve or install a one way valve on the high side and install the vtt vacuum relief valve on the vc or head inspection port.
 
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Trowy88

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You have to either reuse your flapper valve or install a one way valve on the high side and install the vtt vacuum relief valve on the vc or head inspection port.

okay so a standard non return valve on the line from the flapper side on the valve cover on the out side of the catch can Joining to the rear turbo inlet will work in stopping the code and symptoms I’m having?

Sorry but I’m not sure what the “vacuum relief valve” is and or where it’s located? Is this a replacement filler cap that has the mini air filter on top with a one way valve built in???

sorry if I make no sense
 

martymil

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The factory flapper has a metered vacumm leak, without it your seals will whistle bad or damage them.

Thats why you have to use the vacuum relief valve if you dont use the oem flapper
 
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martymil

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The vacumm relief valve directly bolts to the alloy valve cover, if you dont have one the easiest way is to reuse the oem flapper you will have to make how to integrate it yourself as the is no off the shelf kits to do this
 
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Trowy88

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The vacumm relief valve directly bolts to the alloy valve cover, if you dont have one the easiest way is to reuse the oem flapper you will have to make how to integrate it yourself as the is no off the shelf kits to do this

Okay looks like I’ll try to somehow connect the flapper into my AN 10 line.

Sorry I still don’t know what a vacuum relief valve is or where it goes?

im still not understanding why a flapper delete fitting exists if by deleting the flapper causes this issue?

I appreciate your help thank you.