N54 Precision Raceworks Ignition Group Buy! - DBV2

[BrazyN54]

Bumper is off because I installed some HID foglight bulbs , which need some troubleshooting.[/ATTACH]

HIDs need custom coding.
You have to alter the pwm coding since the power is delivered via PWM when the engine is running and this tends to cause flickers or shut the ballast down. I ran into this problem and resolved it via coding.

This is engine running
Coded fog lights for HID’s you can see the ballasts on the bottom right
+ US side marker delete with headlights on

 

[BreakMyBillfold]

HIDs need custom coding.
You have to alter the pwm coding since the power is delivered via PWM when the engine is running and this tends to cause flickers or shut the ballast down. I ran into this problem and resolved it via coding.

This is engine running
Coded fog lights for HID’s you can see the ballasts on the bottom right
+ US side marker delete with headlights on
View attachment 12384

Oh, okay. I have a Carly, but it sounds like this would be beyond the scope of that. I'm all about the DIY (well, pro bono is nice too). How do I go about coding that, find a coder for hire?

 

[BrazyN54]

Oh, okay. I have a Carly, but it sounds like this would be beyond the scope of that. I'm all about the DIY (well, pro bono is nice too). How do I go about coding that, find a coder for hire?

If you have a laptop download the bimmer geeks bmw tools file and get all the sp Daten files
This might take a day or two to download from mega upload
I coded it via
Ncsexpert nettodat.trc (trace file)
Then opened it in ncsdummy and added the custom value and then coded it back.
If you can follow instructions its very straight forward. I am happy to assist if you want to tackle this.

Easiest way would be to just send me your trace files, I’ll do all the changes and then all that’s left is for you to code it back literally like 6 mouse clicks on your sides.

 

[BreakMyBillfold]

If you have a laptop download the bimmer geeks bmw tools file and get all the sp Daten files
This might take a day or two to download from mega upload
I coded it via
Ncsexpert nettodat.trc (trace file)
Then opened it in ncsdummy and added the custom value and then coded it back.
If you can follow instructions its very straight forward. I am happy to assist if you want to tackle this.

Easiest way would be to just send me your trace files, I’ll do all the changes and then all that’s left is for you to code it back literally like 6 mouse clicks on your sides.

Thanks. I am in between working laptops that I can install software on, so I'll have to pursue this later.

I did some checking and found that one solution might be to add some error code canceler/anti-flicker capacitors that are purpose built for this issue. My HID kit has what looks like those in the wiring, but it's between the ballast and the bulb, and the ones that could help with flickering go between the car's harness and the ballast.

I did mess around with the Carly and there's an option to turn off fog light voltage monitoring which mentions if it's set to on it can cause flickering. I turned them off and it didn't help. I already had the bulb monitoring turned off. I thought there might have been a setting to increase PWM because some of the coding controls brightness, but there wasn't.

While I want to get into some of the more in-depth coding that the Carly doesn't cover, I'm inclined to get the error code canceler/anti-flicker capacitors if it can resolve the issue. I sent a message to the Amazon seller I bought the kit from and since they do sell those I suspect that's what they'll come back with. On the "bright" side, at least the flickering/going off issue isn't because the product I bought is defective.

Sorry for the thread dilution.

As far as on-topic content, I have VTT inlets with the PTC heater retained. It is plumbed to a J-shaped hose that goes from it toward the passenger side, then it bends back toward the driver side to the BMS catch can. That U-bend in the OCC hose is in firm contact with PR coil #6 when located in the N55 location. I think what I should be able to do is chop off the U section, rotate the PTC heater so that it points to the OCC and just run it directly without the U bend.

Is anyone aware of any reason why that would be a bad idea? I don't know why the routing is the way that it is in the first place, but perhaps the U bend is intended to help oil mist fall out of suspension.

 

[Rcboosted2007]

I would love to never place a cover over those nice looking coils

 

[ShocknAwe]

They really do look great don't they. Think I might need to glam up my engine cover a bit once I get them.

 

[BreakMyBillfold]

I would love to never place a cover over those nice looking coils

I suspect the cover would/will need enough trimming that you'll still be able to see the coils with what's left of it on. I am not a big fan of exposed injector and original coil wiring being exposed, nor the DI noise. If the OEM wiring for the injectors and coils had some of that black mesh loom material over it or something, I wouldn't mind so much having them show.

 

[BreakMyBillfold]

It's dirty, I know.

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Real road car

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Daily driven beast squad right thur

 

[buster84]

It's dirty, I know.View attachment 12405

I kinda wish they offered custom sizes on the wires or custom kits you can make that way you can make each coils wire the size you want. I'd rather stick the coils on my cowl that way i wouldnt have to cut the engine cover and it keeps it away from the engine heat just as good as it does with the n55 mounting location.

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Maybe someone can make a custom carbon fiber one

 

[Rcboosted2007]

There’s tons of diy kits now

 

[BreakMyBillfold]

Pure Stage 2 Hi-Flow 2" snouts, RB hi-flow drains, VTT inlets, VRSF DPs and DCI, Wagner IC, RPi exhaust, DIY Walbro 450, BMS OCC, NGK 5992 @ 0.022", Fuel-It PI w/680cc DW injectors, N20 3.5bar TMAP, 550i/335is OEM DM clutch, ER CP w/Tial BOV, BMS JB4 and PI controller, BMS OTS BEF for hybrids/PI/E85 map 7, and PR coils. I plan to walnut blast, increase my BOV line size, beef up my LPFP more, and then get a pro tune. I have a BMS WMI setup I may put in and an MMP silicone outlet(and inlet) setup that may possibly go in although I'd prefer some aluminum ones.

I just took care of my BOV line restriction. Thanks to @Omar@VaderSolutions for the solution. I like to call it the V.I.P. (Vader Intake Port).

 

[BreakMyBillfold]

Daily driven beast squad right thur

It's cleaner on the outside, usually.

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Is that a port block to add an additional vacuum line?

 

[BreakMyBillfold]

Is that a port block to add an additional vacuum line?

It can be, but the main purpose is to put a larger nipple than the factory plastic one on the intake, which you would plug if you are just getting rid of that restriction. The factory plastic barb/nipple is smaller than Tial recommends. This is a convenient alternative to drilling your manifold and screwing in a barb fitting. It sandwiches between the MAP sensor in the intake and its hole. I finally got around to installing it. I may investigate putting in a lighter BOV spring if I can.

Here's the listing: https://vadersolution.com/products/vs-tmap-bov-line-adapter

ETA: There's a thread here about it: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/vader-solutions-bov-adaptor.3063/

 

[buster84]

Is that a port block to add an additional vacuum line?

It's only needed if you run a single large blow off valve. If you run two bypass valves like the forge setup or turbosmart then the factory vacuume is good enough to support them both.

 

[ShocknAwe]

It can be, but the main purpose is to put a larger nipple than the factory plastic one on the intake, which you would plug if you are just getting rid of that restriction. The factory plastic barb/nipple is smaller than Tial recommends. This is a convenient alternative to drilling your manifold and screwing in a barb fitting. It sandwiches between the MAP sensor in the intake and its hole. I finally got around to installing it. I may investigate putting in a lighter BOV spring if I can.

Here's the listing: https://vadersolution.com/products/vs-tmap-bov-line-adapter

ETA: There's a thread here about it: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/vader-solutions-bov-adaptor.3063/

And? How does it work? Are you satisfied? Would you do it again Vs drilling/tapping the manifold?

 

[BreakMyBillfold]

And? How does it work? Are you satisfied? Would you do it again Vs drilling/tapping the manifold?

I noticed my BOV doesn't make the same type of noise that it did before, which to me means it's opening faster and spends less time in between closed and open to make more of a shooshing type sound which maybe sounds cooler but is more hazardous to your turbos and would delay post shift boost building/maintaining. That gives me more peace of mind as there will be less wear to the thrust bearing in the turbos. Due to the sound difference alone I will say that it for sure does work.

It's hard to tell but when letting off throttle and staying in gear the car seems a bit smoother. It should make a difference shifting under high boost and I think that it is improved but I can't say it's super noticeable so far. I'm only at map 7 with 19.5 psi so this effect may be more pronounced at higher levels later. Also right now my bank 2 precat O2 sensor is acting up and I'm getting thrown to safety map 4 for trim 2 too high at the moment where the improvement would be most noticeable so I don't really have good testing to comment yet.

I've never drilled and tapped but I was getting ready to do that when I found this option. It's not rocket science to do it from what I can tell, but at the same time you're threading in a pipe fitting into what's usually a thin wall of plastic. Some people build up or add JB weld to the area and it's possible to have issues with cracking and leaking not to mention having to remove the manifold and clear it of shavings. For me this is a much cleaner and hassle free option and I'm very satisfied. If it means anything it's also reversible but I already removed one of the airbox mounting posts so that doesn't matter in my case.

I still want to dial in my BOV spring as it could be too strong. It was holding the BOV closed at idle when plumbed to the stock nipple, which with more flow now and it's still closed I can tell that before it was too strong for the old nipple. Ideally, at least to me, it should just barely closed at idle, overcoming the vacuum in the intake with the throttle closed. Under boost the BOV line has positive pressure which helps hold it closed along with the spring. Then when you shift the and the throttle closes the weaker the spring the better so the piston can open quickly. It's possible that my spring is still stronger than optimal. I like to fine tune things so I plan to mess with it.