New 6266 doc race kit lazy spooling is this normal?

Mvaccarelli01

Private
Apr 18, 2020
47
Check all boost lines. I had mine spiking once because a banjo bolt on the gate came loose. You could also not have the reference line plugged in, or it could be a number of things. Start with checking lines first.
What do you have your gain set at on the gfb? You could have a minor boost leak double check your coupler connections and double check your wastegate lines it's common for them to blow off if not properly secured
Hello.
drive a speedtech kit with precision 6266jb, tial wastegate, motiv boostbox, vrsf 7.5, ... have full boost pressure at 3400rpm
how do you have the boost controller solenoid plumbed? direct boost to bottom of wastegates and the outlet of the solenoid to the top? either way a boost leak check would be a good idea

I double check all 4 wastegate ports took them all off and closed them tight.... the 3 other air ports are closed off.... top ports running to port 2 on mac, bottom ports running to the turbo housing that line is also teed off running to port 1 on MAC. my mac buzzed on start up. all lines tripled checked and look at this log. it always seems the boost curve is nice and once it hits near wastegate pressure at 11-12 pressure at 4k it seems like my boost controller is like oh yeah you need to go higher depending on my duty bias and my boost curve after that goes zigagig crazy until it is at desired pressure at around 18-19 psi at 4800 rpms.. over boost is set way higher.. gains setting does nothing. so laggy. dont know what the hell is going on besides replacing my brand new boost controller with a replacement (faulty out of box) or dropping the subframe and triple check the wastgates take them off and re install them. when i installed them yes i made sure the plate o ring thing that keeps dropping out was set correctly. when i unplugg my boost controller i hit wastegate pressure at 4k rpm and boost curve is way nicer.. but not sure if its when i get to a certain boost pressure it zig zags (small boost leak) or faulty controller
 

Mvaccarelli01

Private
Apr 18, 2020
47
Sounds like its a dead mac then..if youre close to Illinois i got like 2 or 3 3 port macs i dont need. also, id grab a 1/8 npt drill a hole and do a direct reference dont tee it. Less chance of issues.

Also, if you can i would re route and dei heat shield your lines to the front. I wouldn't run them by the downpipe like that.

If youre gonna order a new mac go 4 port. And if you can spare 80 bucks do 1/4 compression. Less chance of leaks, melted rubber etc. View attachment 36956
does it matter i used the very TOP port that is sitting on top of the wastegates instead of the ports you used? i block those off and used the very top one
 

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
8,704
AZ
That setup looks nice. And I just realized yes I turned my boost controller on and my Mac buzzes for a few seconds then stops. Is that normal or is it suppose to keep buzzing?
The buzzing sound is the solenoid opening and closing. They are PWM so what they do is open for a certain percentage of time and close for a certain percentage of time, thats how they regulate pressures. I haven't read the rest of the thread, but when the mac is buzzing, its responding to a PWM signal. Generally speaking this wouldn't occur until a higher RPM but that boost controller probably has its own method of operation. If someone reading isn't familiar with PWM, if you want the MAC to operate at 50% duty, you send 12v to the MAC 1/2 of the time... ON off ON off ON off etc. If you want 20 % duty then you send power 1/5th of the time. ON off off off off ON etc.

This is how electric motors work, imagine a merry go round and you give it a push every once in a while to keep it going. This is the solution as opposed to sending 1/2 or 1/5th of the voltage, because then the circuit may not even function correctly.
 

Mvaccarelli01

Private
Apr 18, 2020
47
The buzzing sound is the solenoid opening and closing. They are PWM so what they do is open for a certain percentage of time and close for a certain percentage of time, thats how they regulate pressures. I haven't read the rest of the thread, but when the mac is buzzing, its responding to a PWM signal. Generally speaking this wouldn't occur until a higher RPM but that boost controller probably has its own method of operation.
okay i gotcha.. you should read the rest of the thread and look at the log i posted and see if you can tell me whats going on...:sob:
 

Mvaccarelli01

Private
Apr 18, 2020
47
Sounds like its a dead mac then..if youre close to Illinois i got like 2 or 3 3 port macs i dont need. also, id grab a 1/8 npt drill a hole and do a direct reference dont tee it. Less chance of issues.

Also, if you can i would re route and dei heat shield your lines to the front. I wouldn't run them by the downpipe like that.

If youre gonna order a new mac go 4 port. And if you can spare 80 bucks do 1/4 compression. Less chance of leaks, melted rubber etc. View attachment 36956
where did you get those connectors at to run one line ?
 

Mvaccarelli01

Private
Apr 18, 2020
47
The buzzing sound is the solenoid opening and closing. They are PWM so what they do is open for a certain percentage of time and close for a certain percentage of time, thats how they regulate pressures. I haven't read the rest of the thread, but when the mac is buzzing, its responding to a PWM signal. Generally speaking this wouldn't occur until a higher RPM but that boost controller probably has its own method of operation. If someone reading isn't familiar with PWM, if you want the MAC to operate at 50% duty, you send 12v to the MAC 1/2 of the time... ON off ON off ON off etc. If you want 20 % duty then you send power 1/5th of the time. ON off off off off ON etc.

This is how electric motors work, imagine a merry go round and you give it a push every once in a while to keep it going. This is the solution as opposed to sending 1/2 or 1/5th of the voltage, because then the circuit may not even function correctly.
so is it normal for boost curve to look like that because mac is going on/off/on?? but still don't know why its hitting max boost at 4.8-4.9k RPMs 6266 BB when i see everyone tell me it should be 1k rpms sooner
 

DCook

Corporal
May 25, 2018
230
where did you get those connectors at to run one line ?
Need four of these.

90* fittings.
Line.
Tees.


You should definitely be seeing full boost by 3500 or a little sooner being a 6266.
 
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Mvaccarelli01

Private
Apr 18, 2020
47
everyone i am taking off the wastegates and making sure the valve is pushed all the way in before attaching the Vband clamp. I looked up some videos and saw the metal Oring that attaches detaches from the wastegate has to be pushed in with same force as springs to shut and then install vband clamp on (attach to exhaust).. I am pretty sure i was not doing that and looking back it was very difficult installing vbands as it was not seated all the way due to not enough pressure being applied. hopefully this is the issue. Will report back with findings. thanks for all the help!
 
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gingerbreadman

Private
Nov 21, 2016
33
SoCal
everyone i am taking off the wastegates and making sure the valve is pushed all the way in before attaching the Vband clamp. I looked up some videos and saw the metal Oring that attaches detaches from the wastegate has to be pushed in with same force as springs to shut and then install vband clamp on (attach to exhaust).. I am pretty sure i was not doing that and looking back it was very difficult installing vbands as it was not seated all the way due to not enough pressure being applied. hopefully this is the issue. Will report back with findings. thanks for all the help!
Any updates? I'm having the exact same issue with the exact setup.
 

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