Oil Discussion
- Thread starter Carl Balzer
- Start date
I have updated this list with all suggestions. If there is a particular distinction of oil you think deserves its own option outside of the main oil type, please let me know. I am ignoring weights for now as there would be too many options to list.
For those of you running Rotella T6 ...
$7 mail-in rebate for gallon purchases.
$22.47 gallon price @ Walmart.
That's just nuts...
Filippo
$7 mail-in rebate for gallon purchases.
$22.47 gallon price @ Walmart.
That's just nuts...
Filippo
Now that I think I'll be switching to 3,000 mile OCI, Rotella T6 is making more and more sense...
Just picked up a 2.5 gallon at Walmart. $55 with $17.50 rebate makes 2.5 gallons for ~$38 bucks good enough for just short of two oil changes. The rebate form took about 2 minutes to submit online and already received my confirmation via email. Each person/address is allowed 4 rebates so I will likely buy more.
Switched from Liqui-Moly HighTech 5w-40 to Rotella T6 last change and honestly don't think I can tell a difference even in cold startup noise. I ran Rotella on my E36 M3s. I built an S52 motor and was recommended T6 by the machinist who had been building engines for 30 years. I feel comfortable with the oil and the $100/yr it will save me over a "better" oil. Thanks for the heads-up fmorelli
Switched from Liqui-Moly HighTech 5w-40 to Rotella T6 last change and honestly don't think I can tell a difference even in cold startup noise. I ran Rotella on my E36 M3s. I built an S52 motor and was recommended T6 by the machinist who had been building engines for 30 years. I feel comfortable with the oil and the $100/yr it will save me over a "better" oil. Thanks for the heads-up fmorelli
20w50 is way to thick. Especially for break in. The clearance between the crank and bearings are extremely tight especially if you used coated bearings. With that thick of oil you are looking at starving them more the hurting them. I personally didn't use break in oil. I used 5w30 molly and let the car get up to temp then changed the oil. I then drove my breake in milage and changed the oil immediately after that and my car has been good.
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Break-in .... your engine builder should be specifying.
Filippo
Filippo
Thanks for the feedback and segue to a new thread see link below.
20w50 was recommended by the builder. There doesn't seem to be a consensus. However, I would like to hear about your preference and experience regarding engine break-in method and break-in oil type.
https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/engine-break-in.3985/
I ran that, unfortunately didn't pull a sample before i drained it. for t6. I didnt have time to order more.
why?
I should add the oil looked very good to the eye when I drained. I dont remeber how many miles. mine are mostly time based.
Cause I was so close to going 40 weight cause that seems to be the standard with n54 but all the reading I have done says a 30 weight is usually better and you want the best flow cause that is what actually protects but then I dont get why m cars use a 60 weight if this is true I just can never seem to get it right first time with anything on this platform. I am contemplating getting the 40 weight or I'll prob just run the 30 for winter then go 40 In summer maybe I'll have finished the 540 rat blog by then lol
https://www.google.com/amp/s/540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/amp/
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