Hmmm I've got all kinds of neat stuff on my radar once I get some vendors off my back about their parts needing to be prototyped
*E93 deck lid* You'll sell like 3
Passive/Active Cooling for Hotside Inlets
- Thread starter cityazndan
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*E93 deck lid* You'll sell like 3
I have access to a few large printers, I just need a clean scan of the area in the car to model the parts.
Printer area isnt the only part of the equation though. Most 3D Printers use a thermoplastic that melts or defects around 109F which from my testing isnt enough to withstand the heat cycles of the engine bay. On a hot day in CO, i had void space near the block reach 179F easy. That will melt most all filaments on the market. And the filaments that do withstand the heat tend to have shrinkage or warping issues while printing.
So all in all, itd be soemthing of a difficult thing to make with current sub $50K printers.
So all in all, itd be soemthing of a difficult thing to make with current sub $50K printers.
RIM would work as needed and cost wise per unit would be reasonable. However the mold and the minimum order QTY;s tend to be over 2000 in QTY. Which does not sound like something the average consumer can do.
All in id budget for about a 8-10k cost and roughly 6 weeks turn time.
All in id budget for about a 8-10k cost and roughly 6 weeks turn time.
Fiberglass is super duper flammable. And the mold would need to be baked to endure the engine heat not melting the poly resin or the epoxy. Heated applications tend to mess with composites.
Not to argue with someone who has actual experience (I don't...and I realize this)...but fiberglass itself is an insulator and non-flammable. Hell, it's just glass. We even wrap our exhaust manifolds and turbine housings in fiberglass insulation.
But what about entire engine bay's being made from fiberglass? You know, Corvettes. Those old vettes from the 1950's and 1960's are nothing special today....just the same chopped fiberglass we see in cheap body kits today.
So your comment must be about the epoxies used.
OK, so the epoxy used in cheap fiberglas is not a good idea in an engine bay...but let's be honest. The main difference between fiberglass and carbon fiber is the substrate material. They are both floppy substrates covered in epoxy and the combination of materials together gives carbonfiber the strength we are familiar with.
And carbon fiber is used in engine bays all the time....hell, some entire cars are made from the stuff which means the engine bay.
So heat doesn't mess with composites....heats mess with some (presumably) cheaper resin's or epoxies that make the composite.
And there's obviously resin out there that is suited to this because even back in 1955 Chevy had engine bay's made from fiberglass.
Sometimes when I question things I can sound argumentative. I tried not to...I'm really just curious why fiberglass wouldn't work but carbon fiber does....
I don't want to offend a vendor that is innovating and bringing cool stuff to market
I don't want to offend a vendor that is innovating and bringing cool stuff to market
I have access to stratasys industrial printers that we use for molding tools. Also, RM1100 is a prepreg carbon fiber that can withstand 1100 degrees F direct. So, it's all VERY doable.
It's not the fiberglass, but the resin that would be an issue. You just have to find a high temp resin.Sometimes when I question things I can sound argumentative. I tried not to...I'm really just curious why fiberglass wouldn't work but carbon fiber does....
I don't want to offend a vendor that is innovating and bringing cool stuff to market
Sorry, when i meant FG was "super duper flammable" i sorta simplified my statement.
Allow me to elaborate: Fiberglass with certain resins is super duper flammable - meant for the topic at hand not the generalization of FG as a substrate.
There are many variables to making a CF part which prepreg fiber is great for vacuum bagging comes with its own pitfalls. Firstly the material has a short lifespan so buying in bulk tends to be difficult without it being in a controlled temperature and humidity. There are some resins that absorb ambient moisture from the air while others are not susceptible to this. Even mixing ratios or how quickly you mix these can affect the pot life, cure time, cure clarity, as well as the overall integirty of the part.
When going prepreg even with a resin ratio of 30-40% that has zero voids you will find applying to into the proper mold (in this instance a 3 part closed mold with silicone edging) then sealing it and applying the needed 25hg of vacuum/mercury over a 9 hour period WITH the increased heating cycles (start at 160* then increment 20* each hour until you reach a constant 220*) then you will have a part that can endure the quoted heat rating. Its riddled with small details that if not followed perfectly with both education and experience you will have a part that is crap. Great surface finish due to the prepreg and aesthetically appealing but flip it over and you will see soft zones, dry spots, voids, etc. And that is a very simple summary.
That is why most companies try to stay away from heated CF processes since its extremely difficult especially on a mold that you cannot open to check like a closed mold. There is another way which is a fiberglass skeleton then a wet lay infusion using a Hi-Temp Resin too. Thatd be easier but require significant post cure finishing.
No matter how you look at it, it will be a task. But like all hard tasks the reward is higher than an easy task
Allow me to elaborate: Fiberglass with certain resins is super duper flammable - meant for the topic at hand not the generalization of FG as a substrate.
There are many variables to making a CF part which prepreg fiber is great for vacuum bagging comes with its own pitfalls. Firstly the material has a short lifespan so buying in bulk tends to be difficult without it being in a controlled temperature and humidity. There are some resins that absorb ambient moisture from the air while others are not susceptible to this. Even mixing ratios or how quickly you mix these can affect the pot life, cure time, cure clarity, as well as the overall integirty of the part.
When going prepreg even with a resin ratio of 30-40% that has zero voids you will find applying to into the proper mold (in this instance a 3 part closed mold with silicone edging) then sealing it and applying the needed 25hg of vacuum/mercury over a 9 hour period WITH the increased heating cycles (start at 160* then increment 20* each hour until you reach a constant 220*) then you will have a part that can endure the quoted heat rating. Its riddled with small details that if not followed perfectly with both education and experience you will have a part that is crap. Great surface finish due to the prepreg and aesthetically appealing but flip it over and you will see soft zones, dry spots, voids, etc. And that is a very simple summary.
That is why most companies try to stay away from heated CF processes since its extremely difficult especially on a mold that you cannot open to check like a closed mold. There is another way which is a fiberglass skeleton then a wet lay infusion using a Hi-Temp Resin too. Thatd be easier but require significant post cure finishing.
No matter how you look at it, it will be a task. But like all hard tasks the reward is higher than an easy task
Move the oil cooler to the driver side, and now you have a direct air duct feed on the passenger side. Only applicable to N54B30 cars though without the PPK2
Hey good idea, but how to route from that vent into the engine bay? Would still need some kind of box for the intake cone
I hope Im not getting my oranges mixed up with my grapes here. After removing the oil cooler it should leave enough room to channel air. Some fiberglass fab work will need to be crafted.
If you want to rely on ram air you dont need an air box. If you want to have both (ram and vacuum for air intake) then yes some sort of sealed enclosure will need to be made, not necessarily a box
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What would be necessary to make out of silicone also why not just buy an mmp kit and then modify to mate to 335d snorkel or into fender well?
Well I am ordering the atm intake to try to fit my pr inlets by replacing back plate. Does anyone know that this won't work for some reason before I pull trigger. I should be able to at least use as a template worse case.
Oem 335d box is a hard no on fitment. So, I would assume you'll run into the same issues with the ATM box. I'm all for you trying it though, because it'll save me some potential work.
Why are yo wasting your time?
Once you compress the cool air it'll heat up. Just use a good intercooler and chemical cooling. Like Torgus said at the start.
If you burn more meth or ethanol you can burn more fuel as well requiring less air at the end.
Weren't the glowing turbines enough to make you see this?
Once you compress the cool air it'll heat up. Just use a good intercooler and chemical cooling. Like Torgus said at the start.
If you burn more meth or ethanol you can burn more fuel as well requiring less air at the end.
Weren't the glowing turbines enough to make you see this?
Yes I understand end temp will not change much if you place those specific variables in a test tube but that isnt how the world works. I just am not looking to beat a dead horse argument. But here goes nothing since you directly asked me. I understand that if the air was sitting in the turbo and fmic for a period of time long enough that all heat transfers "which it isnt" but say it does . You still are not taking into acount that you lose psi as your fmic cools ,yes I know the turbos will then compensate with more boost since boost is measured after the fmic but you are pushing the turbos further out of efficiency range if they are stock. You are also decreasing their efficiency by having less dense air enter the turbo to begin with. That's why people run volute injection and pre turbo injection on so many platforms ,ESP when turbo life doesnt matter. Why do you think BMW ran cai from factory. Yea time and time again it's been proven flow is greater than temp when comes to making power. 2 things though, that doesnt mean temp loses affect it just isnt as big and also when temp can alter flow by increasing efficiency of turbo then yes it will . As much as meth will help iat it wont help lower shaft speed. I have an ade 650 and my temps are within 10 degrees of ambient during normal driving they drop to close to ambient as soon as I go wot but In traffic I heat soak badly ,that is my honest main concern but all the above is just a benefit.
