Pcv delete fitting options

Torgus

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Nov 6, 2016
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vacuum pump is king

Go make a kit with an electric one that can be run 24/7 already ;)

Plenty of GM cars in the 80s came with them. Find out how many inches of vacuum is ideal for the n54 and then find a pump? I believe you don't want too much vacuum in the crankcase because of lowered oil pressure etc.

ProStock cars use electric pumps. NHRA realizes the added HP potential and ruled that Stock Eliminator can't use anything other than a PCV valve and SuperStock is only allowed to use the exhaust evac system.
 

matreyia

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Go make a kit with an electric one that can be run 24/7 already ;)

Plenty of GM cars in the 80s came with them. Find out how many inches of vacuum is ideal for the n54 and then find a pump? I believe you don't want too much vacuum in the crankcase because of lowered oil pressure etc.

ProStock cars use electric pumps. NHRA realizes the added HP potential and ruled that Stock Eliminator can't use anything other than a PCV valve and SuperStock is only allowed to use the exhaust evac system.
Hmmm...reset adaptations to all items in mhd and drive 100 miles and appears to be stabilizing after installing stock pcv vent hose.
 

Orion1two

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Dec 14, 2019
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''if you delete the PCV valve but still plumb low side to the manifold then yes the flapper must be deleted too. Otherwise too much vacuum is drawn on the crankcase and you'll get a whistling sound from air getting drawn through the seals in off boost situations. You'd still need a check valve on the lowside otherwise boost would be sent straight into the crankcase. ''

(Solved) Hey guys, I just setup a dual catch can system, deleted flapper valve for reason quoted above, I'm also using oem check valve on throttle body vacuum hose. Car is now giving me mixture control codes. I assume I need to reset adaptations, if so which ones? Could there be another issue like an internally leaking valve cover? Head ports are not tapped yet but it shouldn't be the reason for my issue... Thanks (sorry, I've had an n54 for several years but new to more serious mods)
 
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matreyia

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Apr 19, 2017
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''if you delete the PCV valve but still plumb low side to the manifold then yes the flapper must be deleted too. Otherwise too much vacuum is drawn on the crankcase and you'll get a whistling sound from air getting drawn through the seals in off boost situations. You'd still need a check valve on the lowside otherwise boost would be sent straight into the crankcase. ''

Hey guys, I just setup a dual catch can system, deleted flapper valve for reason quoted above, I'm also using oem check valve on throttle body vacuum hose. Car is now giving me mixture control codes. I assume I need to reset adaptations, if so which ones? Could there be another issue like an internally leaking valve cover? Head ports are not tapped yet but it shouldn't be the reason for my issue... Thanks (sorry, I've had an n54 for several years but new to more serious mods)

I reset all adaptations except for battery registration.
 

WOT808

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Aug 7, 2017
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''if you delete the PCV valve but still plumb low side to the manifold then yes the flapper must be deleted too. Otherwise too much vacuum is drawn on the crankcase and you'll get a whistling sound from air getting drawn through the seals in off boost situations. You'd still need a check valve on the lowside otherwise boost would be sent straight into the crankcase. ''

Hey guys, I just setup a dual catch can system, deleted flapper valve for reason quoted above, I'm also using oem check valve on throttle body vacuum hose. Car is now giving me mixture control codes. I assume I need to reset adaptations, if so which ones? Could there be another issue like an internally leaking valve cover? Head ports are not tapped yet but it shouldn't be the reason for my issue... Thanks (sorry, I've had an n54 for several years but new to more serious mods)

Is that not just a massive vacuum leak?

I'm running a low side can with the stock PCV valve in between the delete fitting and throttle body. I retained the flapper, no issues.
 
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Orion1two

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Is that not just a massive vacuum leak?

I'm running a low side can with the stock PCV valve in between the delete fitting and throttle body. I retained the flapper, no issues.

Kind of, not exactly a leak but close... Right before reading your post I figured out I left out in line OEM pcv by accident. I've copied the DIY on n54tech.com ''External PCV Oil Catch Can'' Thank You! I'll post a pic when I get it all back together in case someone wants to copy.
 
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Orion1two

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Here's some pics of my setup and a link to the DIY I copied. Use Flapper and use pcv of your choice in line to catch can (I'm using VTT PCV) . Running fine so far had some issues at first cuz I forgot pcv valve big oof. Obviously use a hose that's rated for vacuum and heat range. 90 degree brass fittings are two peice so you can screw them in (Lowes I think). Highly suggest tapping for drain port. Cost me about $200 in total mostly eBay parts all 3/8'' NPT fittings with AC Fab Adapter. I know I dropped a screw :cry: I know a lot of people in the community don't like Jake Ulch but I want to give him a shout out for helping me with some questions I had... when no one else could figure out I fucked up. I haven't bought anything from him and he still helped. 👍 If anyone has questions I'll gladly answer a few. A few others were kind enough to answer my DM's you know who you are. Thank You!

bmwpcv2.JPG
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Heyfred

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Sep 26, 2018
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No idea. I dont use those. However, the stock hpfp bolts right up in the stock location if that helps.


Inlet on top (stock inlet), outlet on side (AN 90* under "AD" logo).
Where are you getting vacuum for the brake booster?
 

MoreBoost

Sergeant
Jul 27, 2017
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You might be talking about me? I run a low side remarkably similar to yours, with the exception of using a VTT PCV delete fitting in order to run the 2jz valve in-line for the low side, rather than the RB fitting.

Please forgive my lack of understanding but why is it necessary to run a 2jz pcv valve if there's also a check valve near the throttle body/vacuum source?

Also do you mind sharing a picture of the check valve? Is it just pushed into hose on each end?

Thanks