PR coils are on

shushikiary

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I get what you're saying, but the majority if the force to remove them isnt from the rubber, its from the metal clip.

If I pull the plugs out of the head and put the boot on them, its just as hard to put them on or pull them off even if I let air into the boot or hold the rubber off the ceramic.

Will it help some? Yes I'm sure putting the grease on the rubber would help some, but would it solve the problem? I'm confident that it would not.

Its also a classic issue... for example there are these performance tests that many customers test to in my industry, and the tests are not at all a good representation of actual usage. So designing things to meet the test, from an engineering standpoint, seems useless. At the same time, if we dont design to the test, and our competitors do, we wont sell our product. So even if dielectric grease was part of the design, the fact that most people dont use it means its a bad idea to design your product to need it, because even in an engineering world, the customer is always right, especially in markets of mass sale. If this was aerospace and there were only 3 customers all of whom had great training on how to use something, sure, you can get away with that. I dont believe this is one of those markets.

Now, will I go try some grease just to get good data on if it makes a huge difference and if it does likely report back? Yes, that's likely what I'll do, but I'll also add that your attitude about it makes me want to NOT try it rather than try it.

I'm also not going to spend 80 bucks on spark plugs and 250 bucks on coils when they are working currently just because I "could" run a bigger gap and they "might" be damaged with no visible damage. I could also have them xray'ed to see whats going on inside, but again, they are working, so its not worth it.

Next time I replace my spark plugs I might try putting some grease on gaping them larger, but I'm sure as heck not replacing all my coils, the ROI simply isnt worth it.

V8bait, one of the guys who helped design the coils originally, has a VERY valid point that given that the coils have about 4 times the energy output, that doesnt translate into a bigger gap in large numbers because the energy needed to bridge said gap goes up exponentially with gap distance. So a gap of 0.022 to a gap of 0.030 doesnt need just double the power, that's a 36% increase in gap, this needs an increase in voltage from (in normal air, more is actually needed in cyl) 3200v to 4200v, the resistance has likely gone up by 1/3, power is (V^2)/R, so you only increased R by *1.3, and yet increased the squared value by 1000.... the math is plain (though very over simplified here because once you reach breakdown voltage and ionize what you're conducting through things get much more complicated). Combine that with the fact that the distance to the head from the ceramic is MUCH larger than the arc gap, and that the increase in resistance to arc due to fuel/pressure compared to plain air is likely not enough to overcome to huge change in gap, combined with rubber in the way and ceramic in the way, both excellent insulators (better than air), and as a BSEE I'd be willing to lay money down that if an arc to the head through the ceramic is happening, its happening because something else went very wrong, not just too large of a spark gap. Further, while dielectric grease is an excellent insulator, so is rubber, and putting a maybe 1mm thick layer of grease between the ceramic and rubber isnt going to significantly increase the resistance to flow with 1/4 inch or more of rubber already in the way.

So like I said, I'm willing to try it, but I'm not convinced it will solve the problem until I have proof, and no amount of internet typing will help or change that (in both cases of ease of removal (which I'm more likely to believe) and change in gap).
 
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V8bait

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FWIW in testing we let the coils cook for hours arcing at max voltage and they didn't get hurt. The pencils tend to die is short order but these generally just eat the plugs and wires. Replace those if there's carbon tracking and you should be good.

Carbon tracking with these setups is almost always caused because the wires were not fully seated to the plug on these setups, for reasons he kinda
 
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matreyia

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"So even if dielectric grease was part of the design, the fact that most people dont use it means its a bad idea to design your product to need it..."

-The fact that most people don't use it means that they are either unaware as I was about it, or they do not believe in it because they did not know, or they know but may be too lazy or cheap to do so. The fact that dielectric grease exists for spark plug installation means that it does facilitate better protection from arcing damage and installation/removal. Otherwise, the market would not given rise to a product. Obviously there was enough need to warrant the invention of the grease.

"I'll also add that your attitude about it make me want to NOT try it rather than try it."

-My attitude has nothing to do with anything. Don't use it if you don't want to.

"I'm also not going to spend 80 bucks on spark plugs and 250 bucks on coils when they are working currently just because I "could" run a bigger gap and they "might" be damaged with no visible damage."

- You have missed the point completely. If you want to run whatever gap you like, go for it. Your coil kit is already damaged and is not running at 100% capacity imo. If that current level of performance is enough for you, then have at it. The fact is, you said that your coil kit ran at .030 fine then after a week it misfired. I am surprised that it does not make you curious as to why it ran fine only for one week...with no other changes, it started to misfire. Hmmmm... So, don't spend any more money if you are good with what you have now. You posted because you either have issues with the behavior or you wanted input. Here is my input as well as others. Now you don't like the way I am commenting. OK. fine.

"I could also have them xray'ed to see whats going on inside, but again, they are working, so its not worth it."

As stated before, if you are good with their current level of performance, and don't want to find out, then no problem. X raying is another step in labor and time... and it may or may not reveal anything...but you will still have a kit that cannot do .030 gap.

"V8bait, one of the guys who helped design the coils originally, has a VERY valid point that given that the coils have about 4 times the energy output, that doesnt translate into a bigger gap in large numbers because the energy needed to bridge said gap goes up exponentially with gap distance."

OK... this is irrelevant as I am not trying to convince you to gap any value. Gap whatever you like. I am trying to tell you that you most likely damaged your plugs and coils already and they are not at 100% performance level. That is why they went out after 1 week of being able to do .030. That is clear evidence of performance degradation. And you did nothing else to your car, the only thing that explains that is the fact that no grease was used to help insulate the plug a tiny bit more. Not like it's a miracle insulator, but the tiny bit does contribute and help. Nobody is saying it is a fool proof thing, I am saying it's cheap insurance, best practice and there is no reason not to do it if that is what it was invented for.

"I'm willing to try it, but I'm not convinced it will solve the problem until I have proof, and no amount of internet typing will help or change that.."

Again, I think you missed the point completely here. It is too late for you to try using grease now as I believe your kit and plugs are already compromised from not using the grease. You safest bet is to replace everything and do it right the next time. If you want to argue about costs and just want to try to figure it out with the current kit, you may end up going in circles and never ever solve the issue(s).


 

shushikiary

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Given what V8Bait just said about how they tested the coils, I'm confident they are not damaged in any way.

We are going to have to agree to disagree, let it go.
 

matreyia

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Given what V8Bait just said about how they tested the coils, I'm confident they are not damaged in any way.

We are going to have to agree to disagree, let it go.

That guy in the video had your exact problem. In case you are not going to watch it, just letting you know.

I am not agreeing or disagreeing. I am simply reporting my experience and showing you an actual video record of your exact problem. What is there to disagree about when there is literally a video record to watch?
 

matreyia

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FWIW in testing we let the coils cook for hours arcing at max voltage and they didn't get hurt. The pencils tend to die is short order but these generally just eat the plugs and wires. Replace those if there's carbon tracking and you should be good.

Did you cook them at max voltage with or without dielectric grease? And were they inside a hot engine bay or hooked to a lab machine? Out of curiosity.
 

V8bait

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Did you cook them at max voltage with or without dielectric grease? And were they inside a hot engine bay or hooked to a lab machine? Out of curiosity.

We cooked them by running through the plug with the ground electrode a few inches away, without grease, hooked up to equipment to monitor output. Set it to a frequency to mimic around 50% duty cycle so like 8000rpm and let it run on the bench. The IGBT used was the only thing that got hot. But yeah engine conditions will be different but I'd start with the consumables like wires since tracking damages them directly, followed by plugs, and finally coil.

On the COP setups you don't have a choice but to replace it all.
 

Jeffman

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"So even if dielectric grease was part of the design, the fact that most people dont use it means its a bad idea to design your product to need it..."

-The fact that most people don't use it means that they are either unaware as I was about it, or they do not believe in it because they did not know, or they know but may be too lazy or cheap to do so. The fact that dielectric grease exists for spark plug installation means that it does facilitate better protection from arcing damage and installation/removal. Otherwise, the market would not given rise to a product. Obviously there was enough need to warrant the invention of the grease.

"I'll also add that your attitude about it make me want to NOT try it rather than try it."

-My attitude has nothing to do with anything. Don't use it if you don't want to.

"I'm also not going to spend 80 bucks on spark plugs and 250 bucks on coils when they are working currently just because I "could" run a bigger gap and they "might" be damaged with no visible damage."

- You have missed the point completely. If you want to run whatever gap you like, go for it. Your coil kit is already damaged and is not running at 100% capacity imo. If that current level of performance is enough for you, then have at it. The fact is, you said that your coil kit ran at .030 fine then after a week it misfired. I am surprised that it does not make you curious as to why it ran fine only for one week...with no other changes, it started to misfire. Hmmmm... So, don't spend any more money if you are good with what you have now. You posted because you either have issues with the behavior or you wanted input. Here is my input as well as others. Now you don't like the way I am commenting. OK. fine.

"I could also have them xray'ed to see whats going on inside, but again, they are working, so its not worth it."

As stated before, if you are good with their current level of performance, and don't want to find out, then no problem. X raying is another step in labor and time... and it may or may not reveal anything...but you will still have a kit that cannot do .030 gap.

"V8bait, one of the guys who helped design the coils originally, has a VERY valid point that given that the coils have about 4 times the energy output, that doesnt translate into a bigger gap in large numbers because the energy needed to bridge said gap goes up exponentially with gap distance."

OK... this is irrelevant as I am not trying to convince you to gap any value. Gap whatever you like. I am trying to tell you that you most likely damaged your plugs and coils already and they are not at 100% performance level. That is why they went out after 1 week of being able to do .030. That is clear evidence of performance degradation. And you did nothing else to your car, the only thing that explains that is the fact that no grease was used to help insulate the plug a tiny bit more. Not like it's a miracle insulator, but the tiny bit does contribute and help. Nobody is saying it is a fool proof thing, I am saying it's cheap insurance, best practice and there is no reason not to do it if that is what it was invented for.

"I'm willing to try it, but I'm not convinced it will solve the problem until I have proof, and no amount of internet typing will help or change that.."

Again, I think you missed the point completely here. It is too late for you to try using grease now as I believe your kit and plugs are already compromised from not using the grease. You safest bet is to replace everything and do it right the next time. If you want to argue about costs and just want to try to figure it out with the current kit, you may end up going in circles and never ever solve the issue(s).


Excellent video!
 
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matreyia

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Has anyone else blown a dme since adding coils? Coincidence or added stress on old msd80?

I have the model 81 so no worries about DME. I am not surprised if anyone had 80 and it went kablooey... It's just a matter of time, not due to PR coils since they are designed to take less load off the stock coils.
 

fmorelli

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I have the model 81 so no worries about DME. I am not surprised if anyone had 80 and it went kablooey... It's just a matter of time, not due to PR coils since they are designed to take less load off the stock coils.
I don't think the PR coils offload anything, do they?

Filippo
 

Panzerfaust

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I don't think the PR coils offload anything, do they?

Filippo
Unless I misunderstood it the several times I've read the PR coils page, that's a good chunk of the appeal. They increase dwell time but have less current(?) draw, especially with the MHD option ticked to disable multi-spark. Supposed to help keep DME temps down as well.
 

Rcboosted2007

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Unless I misunderstood it the several times I've read the PR coils page, that's a good chunk of the appeal. They increase dwell time but have less current(?) draw, especially with the MHD option ticked to disable multi-spark. Supposed to help keep DME temps down as well.
Yeah thats what it states. Just an odd series of events. Installed did a few pulls. Had 2 misfires, cleared them. Lowered boost and then next pull. Game over for DME.
 

V8bait

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The coils have similar electrical load to factory on the dme, but with higher inductance and can dwell twice as long (which draws twice the current ultimately). Turning off multispark makes up for that. Basically, if you run stock everything it'll draw identical with better spark (better inductance). Cut multispark and they draw way less. Add dwell (MHD option is only like 50% more dwell) and it's still a net benefit.

On mosfets, I did install a set on a car that was missfiring. Car still had a misfire after, and a day or two of testing after coils and the injector mosfets popped. Replaced them and problem solved. On my own car my mosfets blew the instant my low gas light came on while at WOT about 6 years ago on OEM coils. Replaced them and have been driving around with dwell set to oversaturate the coils with multispark enabled about 2 years though just to test things with no problems, but ymmv.
 
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matreyia

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I don't think the PR coils offload anything, do they?

Filippo

They are supposed to lessen the load on the DME as I have always understood it. They do not take the entire load off like the BL Coils do. Unless I read in error.
 

Narcosis

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Robert @ PR took care of me, I ended up purchasing a 6 pack of plug wires at a discount. He offered to replace the faulty wire/boot on his dime, or sell me the discounted 6 pack with 2 day FedEx also on his dime.
 
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