I've ran spacers the last few winters and it has always done it. I had my thrust bushings replaced and that helped a lot, but it is still there. I know it's not the suspension because when I run my summers without spacers it's fine.How many seasons has it consistently done this? What spacers do you have
I've tried BMS and now Apex and I still have issues.What brand? And, yes. mounting surfaces make a huge difference.
I've seen people say this, but it makes no sense... Can you explain more? As long as the spacer has a lip for the wheel to seat on hubcentrically, what's the difference in how thick the spacer is?Make sure you don't run a 10mm spacer
Hub lip actually varies somewhere between 10-11mm.I've seen people say this, but it makes no sense... Can you explain more? As long as the spacer has a lip for the wheel to seat on hubcentrically, what's the difference in how thick the spacer is?
They don't make spacers with a lip in anything <8mm and there is not enough hub to mount on with a 7mm spacer... what's so bad about bumping up to 10mm spacer with a proper lip to mount your wheel on?
Well this is a different issue entirely. Yes, some hub's have a hump at the base. If you have these hubs, you must use spacers that are chamfered so they fit flat to the face of the hub... That has nothing to do with how thick the spacer itself is...Hub lip actually varies somewhere between 10-11mm.
The depth of the lip on the car where the spacer will rest will vary. The available lip space may be 11mm and a 10mm spacer with its own hubcentric lip cannot physically fit. The spacer will bottom out on the lip instead of on the brake hat, leaving a gap between the spacer and the rotor hat. The biggest reason for this is the thickness of the rotor hat. The thickness varies by manufacturer and design. A thinner hat (such as used with aluminum Euro Floating rotors) will leave more lip protruding and make the problem worse. Most spacer manufacturers add an extra chamfer, or shoulder, to push the hubcentric lip further out. The extra chamfer clears any extra part of the stock lip. The other way to get the spacer to fit is to shave the stock lip with a metal file. While not the most elegant solution, it works. If you don't properly shave the stock lip just to fit the 12mm spacer, it can cause the spacer to act as a spring and lugs to vibrate leading to lug bolt failures.
Note this is not theorycraft, I've seen these failures firsthand
Sounds like you've read a lot about the subject. I've seen first hand (check your PM) that these chamfered spacer with extended lugs fail even though they were all torqued down correctly:
That's awful. Sorry to see that happen. Just doesn't make much sense as going to an even thicker spacer would just cause MORE stress on the lugs/hub. Thanks for the info!Sounds like you've read a lot about the subject. I've seen first hand (check your PM) that these chamfered spacer with extended lugs fail even though they were all torqued down correctly:
Anyway, I think it's a fair warning to almost everyone to to stay away from 10mm spacers unless they really know what they're doing (maybe you do!).