Propulsive Dynamics Officially Launches Mass Production

R.G.

Lieutenant
Nov 17, 2016
591
Henderson, NV
#61
You can easily tap into the fuse box, or even the DME power wire (like the JBFo). Tapping headlight wiring seems odd.
 

matreyia

Lieutenant
Apr 19, 2017
769
#62
You can easily tap into the fuse box, or even the DME power wire (like the JBFo). Tapping headlight wiring seems odd.
I don't want to touch the DME. Leave that to JB4 users. Headlight is easier and close to relay and switch.
 
Nov 3, 2016
207
Aston pa
#63
Im so confused, why are you going thorough all of that. Just use a fuse tap on the homelink circuit to get accessory power.
 

matreyia

Lieutenant
Apr 19, 2017
769
#64
Im so confused, why are you going thorough all of that. Just use a fuse tap on the homelink circuit to get accessory power.
Again,
1. closer to temperature switch and fan relay and fan.
2. homelink is already used for passport radar.
3. manual off option with light switch.
 

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
6,758
AZ
#65
The biggest problem with using a fuse tap, is then you have to run another wire through the firewall. But then again, the manual off is really not something I can see being used, assuming the fans actually came on and off with the car. I am a worry wart, and I can see myself forgetting to turn it on.
 

matreyia

Lieutenant
Apr 19, 2017
769
#66
The biggest problem with using a fuse tap, is then you have to run another wire through the firewall. But then again, the manual off is really not something I can see being used, assuming the fans actually came on and off with the car. I am a worry wart, and I can see myself forgetting to turn it on.
If you leave your lights on auto and never pay attention, then you better find an accessory on wire. I like the option of off manually if I need the engine running and have to do something and don't want the fan on for whatever reason.
 

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
6,758
AZ
#67
If you leave your lights on auto and never pay attention, then you better find an accessory on wire. I like the option of off manually if I need the engine running and have to do something and don't want the fan on for whatever reason.
I can see that coming in handy if troubleshooting the car, fans can be noisy.
 

R.G.

Lieutenant
Nov 17, 2016
591
Henderson, NV
#68
Getting wiring in to the fuse box from passenger side requires removing the DME from it's carrier. I use the term "requires" loosely as things can modified. Driver's side is very simple and can tap any of the frm wires. A simple relay harness tapped in to DRL's would work. You could also run an easily accessible flip switch right under headlight switch. I have something similar setup with a line lock. In my opinion, if you're keeping the factory heat exchanger the fan is likely overkill. It will do an ok job at keeping trans fluid at least in line with coolant temps so that when you do actually get some airflow fluid temps will be below 200 quickly. Driving habits / conditions could make that an inefficient solution but if your being mindful it would suffice.
 

matreyia

Lieutenant
Apr 19, 2017
769
#69
Getting wiring in to the fuse box from passenger side requires removing the DME from it's carrier. I use the term "requires" loosely as things can modified. Driver's side is very simple and can tap any of the frm wires. A simple relay harness tapped in to DRL's would work. You could also run an easily accessible flip switch right under headlight switch. I have something similar setup with a line lock. In my opinion, if you're keeping the factory heat exchanger the fan is likely overkill. It will do an ok job at keeping trans fluid at least in line with coolant temps so that when you do actually get some airflow fluid temps will be below 200 quickly.
Doing what everyone so far has suggested is tons more work than using the exposed headlight wire harness. I have no desire to drill or go through any physical barrier to the cabin.

Deleted exchanger and replaced with setrab 16 row series 6 cooler. Will add 2nd fan soon to keep temps around 170F.
 

R.G.

Lieutenant
Nov 17, 2016
591
Henderson, NV
#70
I got ya. It's all in what you're comfortable with in the end.
Just as an FYI
The DRL wiring runs with the headlight wire. There is no physical barrier. It's a rubber grommet top left of driver footwell. It pops out right next to brake fluid res. That's how the wiring from your frm (located next to your hood latch) reaches bay.
 

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
6,758
AZ
#71
I got ya. It's all in what you're comfortable with in the end.
Just as an FYI
The DRL wiring runs with the headlight wire. There is no physical barrier. It's a rubber grommet top left of driver footwell. It pops out right next to brake fluid res. That's how the wiring from your frm (located next to your hood latch) reaches bay.
And the DRLs run automatically when car is on/off with the exception of the off position, right? My amp uses some kind of signal to do this strictly based on the car being awake or asleep, but that is in the trunk, I have no idea what signal it is.
 

matreyia

Lieutenant
Apr 19, 2017
769
#72
And the DRLs run automatically when car is on/off with the exception of the off position, right? My amp uses some kind of signal to do this strictly based on the car being awake or asleep, but that is in the trunk, I have no idea what signal it is.
If you puse auto position headligjt switch...then only at night is the fan automatic.

However, In the daytime, the light should be set to all the way to the on position...to the farthest right position. That way it turns off when you turn the car off.
 

R.G.

Lieutenant
Nov 17, 2016
591
Henderson, NV
#73
And the DRLs run automatically when car is on/off with the exception of the off position, right? My amp uses some kind of signal to do this strictly based on the car being awake or asleep, but that is in the trunk, I have no idea what signal it is.

DRL's can be turned on / off from CIC or if no CIC the BC stalk. Always off when car off, unless headlights left on when car off.
 

terryd5150

Specialist
Mar 4, 2017
87
#74
Yes, bolts that are discarded from old transmission to engine connections need to be replaced completely. Also...do not overtighten bolts. They will deform to useless state if you over tighten them. Use specified torque values...however, it will be close to impossible to torque a few of the bolt because of location...so just use common sense. The bolts are quite soft and so is the tranny and engine metal.

Two o rings to the inlet and outlet ATF cooler lines that connect to the exterior left side of transmission. Do not reuse the old o rings. Also, do not take off the torque converter...just leave it alone. You risk deforming the input shaft seal where the converter connects to...and then leaking atf under pressure during operation.

Finally, be very certain that the quick connects are absolutely secured and not half way because they WILL burst loose under pressure and you will empty your ATF on the road.

If you don't have enough road...then you must rent a dyno for an hour or little more. That is your only alternative. Unless you drive at 3 am in the morning on the roads. Highest speed driving during procedure is 65 mph. so make sure you have at least that much speed limit near the ending sequence.
When you say do not take the torque converter off...

Do you mean do not take it off the flywheel/flexplate or do not take it off the input shaft of the transmission?
 

matreyia

Lieutenant
Apr 19, 2017
769
#75
When you say do not take the torque converter off...

Do you mean do not take it off the flywheel/flexplate or do not take it off the input shaft of the transmission?

The unit comes with a converter on the input shaft. Do not take it off the shaft.
 
Sep 8, 2017
59
#76
Is anybody driving these things around yet? Looking forward to videos, feedback, etc. Seems to have died off and no discussions occurring anywhere else on the interwebs.
 
May 4, 2017
1,759
Plano TX
#77
Is anybody driving these things around yet? Looking forward to videos, feedback, etc. Seems to have died off and no discussions occurring anywhere else on the interwebs.
I just saw a video from 1320vid where there was a guy with a Motiv900 setup backed up by a Propulsive Dynamics transmission. He said he was still breaking the set-up in and testing it at low boost (I think he quoted ~700hp).

But there were no comments on the transmission itself or how well (or not well) it was working.
 
Sep 8, 2017
59
#78
I just saw a video from 1320vid where there was a guy with a Motiv900 setup backed up by a Propulsive Dynamics transmission. He said he was still breaking the set-up in and testing it at low boost (I think he quoted ~700hp).

But there were no comments on the transmission itself or how well (or not well) it was working.
I will check that video out. This is a little bit sad to see as we have a huge potential opportunity for these A/T N54 guys and seriously need data out in the wild before making a monetary commitment like that. I am sure Propulsive Dynamics wants to sell more of these things.
 

jayson335i

Specialist
Feb 13, 2017
88
#79
I’ve had mine for a while now. So far no issues and running great. I’ve gone to the track twice and once to Dyno plus multiple street pulls.
Best 1/4 mile so far [email protected]
Dynoed 660whp, just need to work on those 60ft
 
May 4, 2017
1,759
Plano TX
#80
I’ve had mine for a while now. So far no issues and running great. I’ve gone to the track twice and once to Dyno plus multiple street pulls.
Best 1/4 mile so far [email protected]
Dynoed 660whp, just need to work on those 60ft
You have any timeslips and/or logs you can post?

660whp fits perfectly with a 3600lb car hitting 130mph in the 1/4. The interesting thing is going to be the time splits, as your 60' is only part of the story. For 660whp and 130mph you should be almost a full second quicker if everything is behaving properly. With this mph and rwhp I would expect a [email protected] on a 1.6 60'.
 

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