Review 22ple suite of Glass Coating

matreyia

Major
Apr 19, 2017
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335i e93
This is a review of the 22ple Glass Coating suite of car paint protection.
The following products were used:
After wash dry, claybar, wash dry, compound medium, then fine, then jewelers polish, alcohol wipe -

1. 22ple Activate
2. 22ple VXPro 2 Glass coating (2 layers)
-24hr wait bewteen)
3. 22ple HPC glass coating (1 layer)
4. 22ple Finitura finishing coat & harderner.
5. 22ple VS1 Final Coat Top Off Spray.

Good shine, insane water repulsion. Drove
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thru rain and did not see dirt or waterspots when home. Even in hot Tx sun beating on it.

Very glass like shine.

Recommended- yes.
Expensive- YES.

I USED 2 BOTTLES OF VXPRO 2 50ml.
1 bottle of HPC.
 

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
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Did the finishing process cause any DME codes? You know ... it's an N54 :cool:

Seriously though ... can you share a bit about the process, PITA factor, etc. I have a bunch of stuff to do this (CQ Quartz) and all the paint equipment (because I spray a lot of finishes for what I do for a living) but I've been too lazy to go after this. Looks fantastic!

Filippo
 

matreyia

Major
Apr 19, 2017
1,780
711
0
Ride
335i e93
Did the finishing process cause any DME codes? You know ... it's an N54 :cool:

Seriously though ... can you share a bit about the process, PITA factor, etc. I have a bunch of stuff to do this (CQ Quartz) and all the paint equipment (because I spray a lot of finishes for what I do for a living) but I've been too lazy to go after this. Looks fantastic!

Filippo

I can say prep work is the absolute worst thing about it. I had to touch up all road rash nicks. which means using a magnifying glass and needle tube to apply paint into the damaged spots. Then wet sand all the affected spots. Then wet sand the rest of the car that had deep scratches, this involves one round of 1500, then 2000, then 2500, then 3000 grit. So the sanding was the worst. After sanding, compound with Sonnax Cutmax, then Chemical guys v32, then v36, then v38 - that's 4 passes on the car paint. Basically, I sanded 4x and compound polished 4x the whole car. But you have to get those damaged spots as invisible as possible or else the coating will amplify the damage.

Applying the stuff is easier than prep. On the Activate (primer) you just use gauze and apply to each panel and after a couple of minutes, wipe off with short nap MF rag. I bought 110 MF rags from Costco because you have to keep each rag super clean and they cannot be reused. Once you wipe, that's it. If you try to reuse, it will cut into your paint.

On the VXPro 2 Glass coating, same application, but wait 5 minutes if temps are 90 F and above. Then wipe off with tightly folded MF cloth. Do not try to wipe off with big area MF...the more compact the MF, the better it will wipe off. Then use new MF to buff off any excess. Making sure to fold and turn the MF frequently until you run out of new surface.

On the HPC Glass Coating, same thing but wait 3 minutes and then wipe off. Then use new MF and buff.

On the Finitura, same thing with gauze application - do not buy their POS applicator, go to Walgreens and buy the 4x4 gauze packs and cut them to 2x2. You will thank me. Apply finitura and wait 2 minutes and wipe off, then buff.

On the VS1 Final Coat, you can spray onto the MF and apply but I just use the same gauze method, I spray onto the gauze piece until saturated, then apply. Wait 2 minutes or three... then wipe off and then buff.

Do not run out the clock on the maximum dwell time. You will not be able to wipe off the product. Do half the recommended dwell time, unless you live in a cold ass climate.

I had VXPro 1 applied in 2013 and that lasted until 2017...pretty damn good for one month's work. I am curious to see how long this new stuff will last.
 
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langsbr

Captain
Apr 5, 2017
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Do you have a paint thickness gauge? I would think that is a bit much sanding on OEM clear. I am tempted to use a denim pad on my car to reduce factory orange peel, but don't want to burn thru the clear.
 

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
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Do you have a paint thickness gauge? I would think that is a bit much sanding on OEM clear. I am tempted to use a denim pad on my car to reduce factory orange peel, but don't want to burn thru the clear.
"deep" scratches, as he says, is a relative term.

1500 is reasonably fine. You're not going to be there long. Remember that every successive grit is simply removing scratches from the prior grit. And it is wet sand. A slightly soapy water lubricates and floats particulate so you don't introduce more scratches beyond the compound.

It's actually the buff that is trickier relative to burn through. Edges and creases on the bodywork are candidates for burn through with a power tool. If you don't have experience, this is not really a place to go. Some people will tape those edges prior to buff, then come back through and hit those areas with more care.

Your electrostatically applied finish is going to have very little orange peel. If you feel up to the challenge pick a panel, like the top of your trunk, and run through the process. Pretty safe and you'll get a feel. If you do something stupid, easy enough to repair/replace.

I live off of half-mile of gravel/dirt road before I hit pavement (I know ... I'm a car guy, what was I thinking) ... ever since the ceramic stuff came out, I wanted to do our daily drivers just to reduce crap sticking to the cars and making wash a bit less arduous a task.

Filippo