This.M3 cowel, R8 coils, ff intake manifold, and get rid of the red on the strut tower braces. A modified M18 valve cover you’re eyeing would also help.
Has anyone moved the DME? I’d be curious to know how they handled the wiring harness and if they had any issues with wire resistance from crimp/solder joints or wire extension.This.
Unfortunately the N54 engine bay is pretty ugly. You are going to spend a pretty penny to make it look better.
$2000 FF manifold + making a custom harness and up pipe for BOV.
$700 M18 VC https://www.m18performance.com/product-p/n54-vc.htm
$500 R8 Coils https://www.bimmerlifetuning.com/products/motorsport-ignition-upgrade-for-135i-335i-535i
$325 CF engine cover https://www.urotuning.com/products/racing-dynamics-carbon-fiber-engine-cover-bmw-n54-131-74-54-020
$650 CF front strut brace https://www.ecstuning.com/b-wiechers-sport-parts/racingline-carbon-fiber-aluminum-front-strut-bar-bmw-3er-e90-e91-e92-benziner/067032c~wie/
$800 for custom made coolant, power steering reservoirs
$60 BMS Billet BMW Oil Filter Cap https://burgertuning.com/products/bms-billet-bmw-oil-filter-housing-for-n54-n55-s55-n51-n52-n20-bmw-engines
$700 M3 cowl: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-m3-cowl-conversion-kit-64316958817kt
Total: $5,735 w/ no install costs or shipping to your door. $735 more than the price of an ACF or DR DBB single turbo top mount kit.
After all of that you can start taking parts off to be chromed or anodized black or black wrinkle coated etc. Wire tuck and move the DME into the glove box etc. Unfortunately, you can basically throw endless money at an engine bay if you want to get it 'show car' looking.
Not that I am aware of.Has anyone moved the DME? I’d be curious to know how they handled the wiring harness and if they had any issues with wire resistance from crimp/solder joints or wire extension.
$650 strut brace?! Man I need to be smokin' whatever your smokin'
I personally wouldn’t move the DME, but would be interested in redoing the harnesses to reroute them and shorten/lengthen where needed. You could hide the wires, add mil spec bulkhead connectors on outside of DME box, etc. would make removing/replacing components and the engine a lot easier if done right.Not that I am aware of.
I don't think it is worth the hassle of moving the DME personally. I think the same of wire tucks and making an engine bay 'show car' like. I mean my hood is closed 99% of it's life and the only one who sees under it is me and rarely a mechanic. I don't anything shiny to look at while I am changing my oil or doing a mod, but that is just me.
You could always build a new box to house the DME and make it look 'good' that would be a MUCH better solution I think. Metal and black wrinkle coat it for example. Just have to add some grommets, probably try and reuse OEM if possible.
I agree I would worry about changing the resistance by extending the wires ~4 feet or so. Obviously you can move to a MUCH larger conductor but there will be no way to have the factory resistance unless you wanted to spend a metric fuck ton of money. Now maybe nothing would happen with the resistance changing over that ~4 feet but I sure would not spend the money to find out.
That's basically what I was looking at, thanks. I know the strut tower braces are ugly, it was a project from like 4 years ago... needs to go back to black but was also looking for an m3 brace seems to be much better.M3 cowel, R8 coils, ff intake manifold, and get rid of the red on the strut tower braces. A modified M18 valve cover you’re eyeing would also help.
Sorry I bought them from a local store. It's Vibrant don't remember exactly what the part number was. I also need to do my BOV line.