single turbo get read!

TWilly

Specialist
Jul 7, 2017
85
hey guys first time poster but longish time lurker.
I bought my 07 335i sedan about years ago and recently I purchased my VM single turbo kit.
But I am very OCD when it comes to my baby. so I don't want any surprises when installing this kit.
so the point of this post is basically, what am I looking at? do you single turbo dyiers run into any problems? what are you guys doing with the flapper valve and the hose that goes into the one inlet since clearly I wont have the inlets there anymore. also what do you guys recommend replacing while you are in there? what did you guys do with the vacuum canisters?

I have the following waiting to install with the kit:
water pump
thermostat
hoses
all new serp belt + pulleys
oil pan gasket kit
oil level sensor
lots of heat wrap and reflective tape

ID also like to get
new motor mounts/ trans mount
supframe bolts?
do I need a n54 turbo install kit? looking for new exhaust manifold gaskets and the O-rings for the fittings and water pipe

I read a little about these ADV sensors (are these like performance o2 sensors?)


little about my car for those who are wondering car is currently jb4, charge pipe, turbosmart 50/50 diverter valves, vrsf 7in HD intercooler + dp, and I have a stage 2+ fuel pump waiting to install from PR.

thanks for any help.
 
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dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
I reused my subframe bolts, I don't think they are one time use. But you need the ADV sensors. They are sensors designed to be used in a positive pressure environment. The stock sensors are designed to be placed in the downpipes after the turbo...where there isn't any positive pressure. When you put them in the exhaust manifold (pre-turbo) you place them in a positive pressure environment forcing exhaust gas under pressure into the O2 sensor. This kills O2 sensors fast. The ADV sensors are designed to deal with pressurized exhaust gas and have no issues in that manifold environment.
 

TWilly

Specialist
Jul 7, 2017
85
thanks for the reply camberadam! yes I know ill have to replace the clutch. when I do that ill replace all the bolts and do the rear main seal. as well as a throw out bearing. is there a reason you want with a bronze pivot ? I was thinking of going with motiv twin disk but don't know much about it. how do you like your stage 3?
 

TWilly

Specialist
Jul 7, 2017
85
I reused my subframe bolts, I don't think they are one time use. But you need the ADV sensors. They are sensors designed to be used in a positive pressure environment. The stock sensors are designed to be placed in the downpipes after the turbo...where there isn't any positive pressure. When you put them in the exhaust manifold (pre-turbo) you place them in a positive pressure environment forcing exhaust gas under pressure into the O2 sensor. This kills O2 sensors fast. The ADV sensors are designed to deal with pressurized exhaust gas and have no issues in that manifold environment.
thanks for the info about the ADV sensors. I will defiantly have to get them. where do you find these?
 

camberadam

Sergeant
Feb 15, 2017
257
Baltimore
thanks for the reply camberadam! yes I know ill have to replace the clutch. when I do that ill replace all the bolts and do the rear main seal. as well as a throw out bearing. is there a reason you want with a bronze pivot ? I was thinking of going with motiv twin disk but don't know much about it. how do you like your stage 3?
OEM pivot is a wear item (plastic); stronger clutch = stronger pivot (brass or stainless avail I believe)
No complaints on the Stage 3 so far; ;low rpm high load flywheel chatter is tolerable. Idle is raised to 900; going to experiment w/ fluids next time I'm under car to see if I can quiet it any more. I probably should have bit the bullet & went twin disc, but used the funds elsewhere.
 

The Convert

Captain
Jun 4, 2017
1,439
For twin disc, at least, the brass pivot is not needed. The pedal pressure is only slightly higher than oem. As far as brass or stainless pivot pin, if there is a stainless one, I'd avoid it. Brass is self lubricating, whereas a stainless pin would fret the clutch fork and ultimately wear through it.
 
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
8,869
AZ
First off, welcome to the discussion! We are glad you are here. Hopefully I can help:

do you single turbo dyiers run into any problems?
My biggest delays came from waiting on tools or parts to arrive. Primarly revolving around the head studs and the wg lines. I was super paranoid about breaking a head stud off in the head, so I ordered a 7mm roller type socket. Came out flawlessly after breaking all the E socket tips off the studs(The socket doesn't go on all the way and sheers the tip off). Vice grips wouldn't do the job, the 7mm extractor worked amazing.

The WG lines, you likely won't have the same problems as my kit came with silicone lines, which I replaced with 4AN SS PTFE lines. This wouldn't be a big deal but due to the position of the wastegate on my bottom mount, it required a custom cnc fitting I had to get off ebay after wasting lots of time and money on shipping on various -AN banjo bolts.

what are you guys doing with the flapper valve and the hose that goes into the one inlet since clearly I wont have the inlets there anymore.
https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/heater-element-delete-it-or-put-it-back-in.1635/

also what do you guys recommend replacing while you are in there? what did you guys do with the vacuum canisters?
Depending on what you've already done, 034 motor mounts come to mind. M3 Steering rack conversion. CSF Radiator. If you are automatic and have an upgraded transmission cooler, you can buy the manual heater core return line which deletes the trans cooler barbs.

do I need a n54 turbo install kit? looking for new exhaust manifold gaskets and the O-rings for the fittings and water pipe
Your kit should come with new exhaust manifold gaskets(I would hope). There are o-rings that get re-used like for the water pipe, however mine was still in good condition. My kit advised reusing an oil o-ring and the water pipe gasket if in good condition, if you're paranoid you can replace them.

I read a little about these ADV sensors (are these like performance o2 sensors?)
I have these, there is a long thread about them but they are supposed to be more durable and more accurate. @[email protected] sells them.

thanks guys . what wastegate spring do you all run?
I run a 1 bar spring stack.
 

TWilly

Specialist
Jul 7, 2017
85
thanks for the reply Doublespaces. I think ill have to pick up that 7mm roller stud remover like you were talking about. I don't think my kit goes down that small. and with 90k on my car I'm sure they will fight me. I am fully cert. FCA tech so I have a shit ton of tools, I just don't have all the BMW special tools. I would love to do an M3 rack conversion. its been while since I looked at your build thread. ill have to go back and see howd that went for you.
As always thanks for the reply guys.
 

R.G.

Lieutenant
Nov 17, 2016
669
Henderson, NV
Double nailed it.
Funny, I went stainless lines for wastegates and then ditched them for push locks. Mainly due to the routing of the top mount. The manifold started melting one of the lines. The push lock ptfe hose is more easily manipulated and I routed them between the rail heatshield. Also put the mac in the fender on the rail. Has worked well and kept the engine bay tidy. The heatshield is an oldschool supra diy. "The Rachel Ray"

The ADV sensors are a must for ST's.
 

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TWilly

Specialist
Jul 7, 2017
85
cant Wait to install this beauty. I just ordered some random stuffed like motor/trans mounts. I bought my O2 sensors too. I bought a rear main seal just incase. Just gotta wait for a clutch. I’m pretty set on spec’s twin disk. Here’s some pics I took of the kit. The ACF kit looks gorgeous !
B3340C07-B37A-43C4-9B90-8C208CA5726C.jpeg F36AEC43-6FC0-4F83-8E81-D127D08A7D03.jpeg FD7F0961-C509-4CFD-AA21-8C4771BC8932.jpeg
 

Abacus38

Lieutenant
Nov 2, 2016
638
Tampa/Orlando, FL
Double nailed it.
Funny, I went stainless lines for wastegates and then ditched them for push locks. Mainly due to the routing of the top mount. The manifold started melting one of the lines. The push lock ptfe hose is more easily manipulated and I routed them between the rail heatshield. Also put the mac in the fender on the rail. Has worked well and kept the engine bay tidy. The heatshield is an oldschool supra diy. "The Rachel Ray"

The ADV sensors are a must for ST's.
What size push lock fitting im thinking about doing the same
 

R.G.

Lieutenant
Nov 17, 2016
669
Henderson, NV

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