I think the the likelihood of success of any pre turbo sensor combined with the stock ecu is going to be somewhat dependent on the manifold and relative sensor positions.Another question is, are the adv sensors, kit dependent? Like wont work with a certain brand due to placement on manifold? I heard that. Would like to know if thats the case with docrace manifolds as well for them. Id look into that also.
Only way I could see manifold design making a difference would be in runner diameter for manifold pressure and proximity to head for temperature.They are pre-turbo sensors, so why wouldn't placement have an impact, based on pressure differential? It would be interesting to see if the works/doesn't work is evenly distributed among all single turbo users regardless of manifold, or if a certain manifold design/style is more prevalent to having them not work.
Because I believe it has an expectation on how long a change should take to be read. A change in fuel that is. Similar reason putting both sensors in the down pipe doesn't work, it expects different values when changing bank fueling independently. I suspect it has a check on time to get that information back also and maybe some ecus have are more complex than others and so there is a difference between who has had success there. I.e. the ijeos might be less forgiving.It's a sensor... the DME has no idea what the manifold is shaped like nor where the sensor is on there. All it sees is voltage / current which gets translated to AFRs and sensor system checks, etc etc.
Fact is ADVs are expensive for what they are ; they work for some but not all and there is no clear reason why.
@veer90: Did you use copper crush washers to get the heat sinks aligned properly? Or did you just anneal the supplied washer (or just happen to get lucky)? And, did you have to remove the compressor housing in order to make room for the heatsink install, or were you able to get away with removing just the air filter?Have 4,200 miles on my NTK's with the Innovate heat sinks as described before, no issue. Daily driving, extended idling, 60+ highway pulls, and 30+ dyno pulls
Additionally I figured out my AFR slow response "problem" which was really an install error. When you enable single rear O2, make sure that the bank 1 rear O2 sensor is actually placed first in the downpipe. lmao
I used a dremel on the supplied washer. only had to remove filter.@veer90: Did you use copper crush washers to get the heat sinks aligned properly? Or did you just anneal the supplied washer (or just happen to get lucky)? And, did you have to remove the compressor housing in order to make room for the heatsink install, or were you able to get away with removing just the air filter?
I spent about 45 minutes grinding down and annealing the supplied washer--got it down to about a 1/8 turn away, but then the washer tore through. Ordered a pack of these, and they worked perfectly w/ no modification on a DOCRace n54 manifold + HBX-1 heat sinks.I used a dremel on the supplied washer. only had to remove filter.