Time to Replace Turbos - 2009 e93

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fmorelli

Brigadier General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
2,577
Virginia
Only the RB low side.
Found the culprit of cottage cheese in RB low side catch can and throttle body....pcv connection was the popping sound! Yeeehaw! No issues! But upgraded turbos in any case!. See pic attached!.

View attachment 32994
PCV connection was the popping sound? What does that mean? What's wrong in the photo where you are pointing? Looks like a clamp holding a silicone reducer pipe.

Filippo
 

matreyia

Captain
Apr 19, 2017
1,435
PCV connection was the popping sound? What does that mean? What's wrong in the photo where you are pointing? Looks like a clamp holding a silicone reducer pipe.

Filippo
Nope...that clamp is toally loose. Only looks tight. If you tocuh it, it slides away from your finger. It was a dull plastic sounding pop when I oushed the wot pedal. And it came from the top of the engine area...really close to the dash. I didn't think nothing of it at the time but I now remember the details.
 

matreyia

Captain
Apr 19, 2017
1,435
So tighten it and problem solved?

Filippo
I don't really have a choice. I have to buy a new clamp and use it temporarily until Omar's connector comes. It will definitely pop again especially with the new upgraded turbos.
 

Jeffman

Captain
Jan 7, 2017
1,346
Is this an accurate summary? -
- PCV line became loose, which caused
- Excessive amount of moisture being pulled into vacuum system, which caused
- The formation of milky cheesy oil water gunk in vacuum system, which prevented
- Normal operation of the throttle, hence codes and shutdown.

Question: How did you clean out the vacuum line?
 
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matreyia

Captain
Apr 19, 2017
1,435
Is this an accurate summary? -
- PCV line became loose, which caused
- Excessive amount of moisture being pulled into vacuum system, which caused
- The formation of milky cheesy oil water gunk in vacuum system, which prevented
- Normal operation of the throttle, hence codes and shutdown.

Question: How did you clean out the vacuum line?
So far that is exactly what evidence is showing. However, I still do not know if turbo seals are blown or not. I suspect they are not blown at all. Since I already ordered all parts for the Stage 2 Pure Hi Flow, I don't want to mess with returns and don't want to deal with hassle of potential refusal of returns and restocking fees. So I will go ahead and give myself a Xmas present by going ahead and installing the upgrades.

The vacuum lines will be inspected once the subframe is removed and traced. It shouldn't be rocket science to trace the lines to their termination points and see if I can disconnect them and spray brake cleaner through and top off with compressed air, then reconnect lines. In worse case scenario, I can leave the lines and not even clean them because the gunk is literally going away as it is being exposed to the air. As was hypothesized before, the gunk is of pure water moisture and not coolant so it evaporates and leaves only oil residue.

I have the turbo removal and replacement schedule for next weekend. This weekend was 1. injector replacement 2. spark plugs 3. inspecting all top piping for gunk and cleaning. Luckily only gunk was in catch can and the throttle body hose.
 

matreyia

Captain
Apr 19, 2017
1,435
Is this an accurate summary? -
- PCV line became loose, which caused
- Excessive amount of moisture being pulled into vacuum system, which caused
- The formation of milky cheesy oil water gunk in vacuum system, which prevented
- Normal operation of the throttle, hence codes and shutdown.

Question: How did you clean out the vacuum line?
Update on your question.
There is no need to clean out the hoses to the throttle body because they were not clogged, only the metal connector that connects the mishimoto low side RB catch can to the throttle body was clogged along with the catch can itself. The metal RB connector and the mishimoto hose were affected and No other internal oem hoses and are all clean as I inspect them

So it appears that when your n54 has a plugged port kit with low side catch can, and you pop your pcv connector off at the top of the valve cover... you will experience precipitous cottage cheese milky buildup inside your low side catch can and in less than one tank of fuel, your low side can will fill up so much that it will clog the hose that connects the throttle body. This time frame for me was less tha 7 days.

Be advised if you experience the same situation as I did. And remember to wait until oil temps are normal before WOT racing, lest you risk this occurrence.
 
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matreyia

Captain
Apr 19, 2017
1,435
Excellent reply and advice. Thank you.
It is a strange thing... one wishes and can see into the future that one will get a turbo before end of year but wonders if the stockers will go so one has legitimate reason to upgrade... then it happens that an incident makes one believe the turbos blew and one orders the upgrades in an emergency situation. And now finds out the well cared for car most likely did not blow turbos but it is too much to send back all the parts, plus the fact that all components supporting upgraded turbos have been replaced...so in the end one's initial vision and desire gets realized regardless of need.

Which leads me to consider...perhaps one should use this power of desire and visualization towards winning lotteries or something more profitable.
 
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matreyia

Captain
Apr 19, 2017
1,435
UPDATE: Good news for me. Drained oil and shows zero coolant contamination. Oil is pure and clean. No shavings or anything. So no need to flush the oil cooler. I may do it in any case because the oil in there is 0w30 and I will be using 5w40 for the Pure High Flows.
Any one with oil recommendations please chime in. I plan to break in turbos on one tank of gas with the Motul 300v 5w40, then do a final oil change after one tank of gas to make it clean again. Unless anyone has suggestions on another brand of oil, I will keep the Motul 300v 5w40 for the final oil change. I read that some companies like Vargas recommend 10w40 with high zinc/phosphorous content... but I have no idea what brand that would be.

VT
 

NoQuarter

Captain
Nov 24, 2017
1,193
Indiana, USA
I read that some companies like Vargas recommend 10w40 with high zinc/phosphorous content... but I have no idea what brand that would be.
Right... Same with me when I read these type of recommendations. Let's be specific with some actual product suggestions please!
 

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