Twin Turbo Wagon: Evan's E61 Build Log

TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
Due to the type of damage the engine (oil pump) received it was unlikely the force could have been transferred to the crank so I focused on rebuilding the timing chains, cogs, guide, and pump.
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Clean and inspected turbos
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Retrieving broken valve cover bolt
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Fixed!
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Valve cover removed and everything cleaned as much as I could, my index 12 injectors were installed
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Leak down test, strong numbers ...thank goodness
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New parts for the "refresh"!
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Cleaning the valves
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Purchased a 535i oil pan off eBay
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Transferring oil pump from old engine and replacing timing chains etc
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Removing crank hub bolt
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Vanos removed
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Weeeeee
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Pump on
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Setting vanos position
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Looking clean
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Valve cover swapped over
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Bags
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Belt driven accessories and fuel system getting bolted on
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TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
Carnage from the old block
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Easiest turbo install ever
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Mocked up the inlets, outlets, and downpipes
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Cooling system on, engine ready to go in
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Tada
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*Snaps fingers* and just like that everything is back together.
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The parts and tools for the engine refresh cost me about $400 and I sold my old undamaged head for $500 on Ebay. There were probably some expenses unaccounted for but I consider the entire engine replacement a financial wash.
 
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TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
Man I love this and your attention to detail
It was my first time in an engine so I opted to be slow and methodical versus quick and careless, the fear of mis torquing a bolt or forgetting about something small that could potentially lead to (another) catastrophic failure was motivation to stay thorough.
Haha that piston/rod, that is crazy. So what are you going to do with the hoist and all those tools? :)
I am selling the hoist and engine stand for $180 picked up which is essentially 1/2 of what the regular price is at Harbor Freight. I have a good relationship with a shop in Costa Mesa and was able to borrow the vanos timing tool.

The leak down tester, crank hub wrench, and some other tools I have are sitting in my garage. Perhaps I can lend them out as a rental to those interested.

Evan
 
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
6,939
AZ
It was my first time in an engine so I opted to be slow and methodical versus quick and careless, the fear of mis torquing a bolt or forgetting about something small that could potentially lead to (another) catastrophic failure was motivation to stay thorough.

I am selling the hoist and engine stand for $180 picked up which is essentially 1/2 of what the regular price is at Harbor Freight. I have a good relationship with a shop in Costa Mesa and was able to borrow the vanos timing tool.

The leak down tester, crank hub wrench, and some other tools I have are sitting in my garage. Perhaps I can lend them out as a rental to those interested.

Evan
Or maybe for when you do a full built motor? :)
 

TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
M5 Drivetrain Retrofit
I would have loved to keep the AWD system, it ALWAYS hooked up and having foul weather/ snow capability really was appealing to me but with my power levels and ride height I was having issue with the front axles and I know there was a lot of stress on the front diff and transfer case.

For the sake of simplicity and reliability I decided to convert to RWD, beefing up the drivetrain to M5 components was a logical upgrade, the M5 LSD would also help with the newly adopted traction issues.

Mechanically the retrofit was fairly straightforward but offered a couple hurdles to cross.
- Custom length driveshaft
- M5 MT output flange
- Trimming of LSD heat sink (E61 has large pull rods)
- Boring out rear LSD mount (since I used upgraded MFactory E9X mounts)

Keep in mind I already had M5 brakes and rear hubs so the axles were bolt-on for me, AFAIK they would bolt up to RWD wheel carriers but xi will need RWD/M5 hubs as the offset is much different.

Since I was going from AWD-RWD the ABS/DSC module needed to be addressed and proved to be a bit of work, this will be covered in another post.

The transmission flange had to be purchased new since anyone with an M5 trans wasn't willing to pull the flange. The other stinger was the driveshaft, I snagged a MT shaft off eBay for $175 but ended up paying $600 for the full rebuilt and lengthening, it is brand new and custom but by far the biggest expense of the conversion. I got the axles for $100/ea, LSD for a crazy good deal ($250). Axles, LSD, have ~50,000 on them. Driveshaft is "new." All new mounting hardware was ordered.

E60 M5s have the clutch-based Visco-Lok style LSD where there are 2 clutch packs on either side. The downside is there is more play so this type of LSD isn't great for drifters or the track due to the slower engagement; the upside is for straight line grip the clutch based system offers superior traction. The design is a bit flawed since the clutch packs are not serviceable so over time the slop gets worse, there can also be some grinding during full-lock turning, the only solution is some crazy expensive gear oil with a friction modifier (it costs $150 just for 1.5L of fluid to flush the 1.1L diff).

I am not a track star, I don't mind the slower engagement, and considering aftermarket LSDs are $1,000+ just for the diff itself I am happy to run the clutch setup. So far it has been working very well. My wagon is about 4,250 with me in it, I have 285/35 Hankook V12s out back and the tires hardly ever slip at 22psi and 1st limited to 18psi. The most annoying part of the LSD is slop which in combination with the toucy BMW throttle can lead to oscillation/jerking is given too much or too little throttle at low RPM. My old E39 M5 had the same issue and same style LSD.

Evan

Here is a peek inside the LSD
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M5 Goodies
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Axle comparison
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EjoxJdaDEiMC7eG4HXprCSZAbjuAgepJGmeLUvi5udeGmWSoX720UWmNijw-f9wyzf9nhQZAyDNpaF069Y=w1318-h988-no.jpg


Driveshafts
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Trans Flange
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Oem Diff mounts vs MFactory
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Built a bushing press tool to remove the oem mounts and install the MFactory mounts which are solid rubber with a larger metal core.
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Test fitting diff
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Exhaust too close for comfort
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E61 Pull rods wouldn't clear the heat sink, there are different M5 specific pull rods but the non-M variants seem to be superior with better mounting points so I made them work, best of both worlds IMO.
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Sharpied the areas to trim, I told track the wagon so there are no thermal concerns with the smaller sink
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Hacked up with an angle grinder
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Hit it with a sanding flap
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Not pretty but "fine" since this will live life under the car
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Non-M vs Stock M5 vs Trimmed M5
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TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
M5 axles in non-M wheel carriers.... if it fits IT FITS!
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LSD and Axles installed
KrCaay_9FQsfrVPoJWfPImUdHN8F15Zku1HE5Q8Ck1070KPgVro8FTZuSRgRqvivndbow9X-FmgPl-lKso=w1400-h988-no.jpg


Pull rods clear
hKcZrwUxCqQNGFoPD-c3oSC_CFMV5mliuYFWJ-cyHE-VbDcAdEwVXE4VyjThtKpYxLvkwboDR13GMUagQQ=w1318-h988-no.jpg


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My counter-hold while installing the M5 flange
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Guibo is also M5 specific with a larger diameter
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Measuring length for driveshaft, measure 5 times and pay $600 once
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Lengthened/Rebuilt Shaft
P1PKJaUUKG4WBD6wlg_2qXvGSeiKaiC9KLH2NHoIRhNOQjoN2DMpMU000FjhhvlKj_Nq1K-_wRWa_XaTdY=w1168-h988-no.jpg


Weld
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Driveshaft in!
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Braces and exhaust installed, it all fits!
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Last edited:
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TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
After resolving some previous DSC codes (thanks to Levan) I had another pop up after a short drive, presumably it was suppressed by the previous codes but this code was related to my clutch pedal signal was always being "on."
Long story short I had the clutch switch wire which runs to the DME in the correct pin location but on the wrong connector, my wiring was ALL wrong on this MT conversion. lol
qHpFOapzCGKwIdUe0OVSjDeJRiBp6-H52qYZCp5JPJ4jhblCCmVqaC3R2ak6Fnhh1UEWQ5m2Og_2H07uj8=w1318-h988-no.jpg

Clutch switch is the purple wire, pic below is the WRONG connector. Funny thing is pin #18 was perfectly unoccupied with the surrounding pins filled.
EVjL5lA1eaBNSpl4jcrDE-K-i7ekitplU96dM9WAq-ig0Ji9aoFT20v4nsfr0Z01dzJwg1bQTqfjsRGgho=w1318-h988-no.jpg

Here is the CORRECT pin #18 on the smaller grey connector.
9-9LxnXQoCyTPg_ygbcp9zbgLvEvjTKCAh3S2syC-wA31gjam2HG3d8XFV-PdoBsyyhyY8r8VfISqj9y8c=w1318-h988-no.jpg

With that small victory under my belt I turned to evaluating my upcoming shifter modification where I will take my UUC SSK, remove the adjustable aluminum sleeve, and have the lower steel half cut and then add M10x1.5 threads. This will make the shifter modular and I can swap shift rods as I need to fine tune the length.
The ORIGINAL plan was to build a Ferrari/Lambo inspired gated shifter but unfortunately after some research and deliberation I think the gated plate would probably create more issues that it's worth. As it is I still want to retain the stainless steel knob and rob look. My UUC is real direct and notchy so I think some added leverage and weight will compliment the function.
5zjALDteqCqpKBceSHvUy1Node4DC-LrAfYsPVnSmv6l5d_FbgLZ3hqd9dtsaXdqxW6LPHbmcWl5j7OonvE=w728-h485-no.jpg

The plan
Wqn-cHwEtln4avYtdCmMU28wwiWhpcD3UXvBdW9T1RRRw2Hx0uE99M9z5u6uokii7N_jX3pTUSLLTkvcKw=w1318-h988-no.jpg

Typical weekend...
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UUC with aluminum sleeve removed
rot-L2Z_fCw-vkFOSIah0RN11NZuFxxLqFEf22UhkVDN-Jq6QXls1N1hYQqQAxJVLIN74q1WztkdGFoky8=w1318-h988-no.jpg

UUC dia
d7qw3sbPCFEgU3Nmsv1MemCGgj5D0AK6rIOnJngFqTjYkyKNPTFIlO6R2N2pvAr_Nhv9_LGuJ9LVqZL5LU=w1318-h988-no.jpg

Stainless steel rod dia
EWS-wj0tQBJEkWMTff8WyJj4r6o4PBXTdy7mujmIb7QY7YuBRWm9yzEqhphxA_wTujJ3KDjmmRXCvmAgT8=w1318-h988-no.jpg

Top inch will be cut off and then 1.5" of M10x1.5 cut into the shifter
im09PKyCCz6Al0AnRoP7Wh0ARTn_L_dfjdbtBQ6iqTUip7jHasNeI0a9jLfVoLJtE1rWGGh6Bc4OWwZPOI=w1318-h988-no.jpg

Something like this but shift knob will be ~2in shorter
8lcUzU372YeTkVjiVwLhCTA9Uz5N1Co2A5rwHOr2LgGM6s21FTzME5wbZsCY07TlIwuxBONJfuk2-FPLQQ=w1318-h988-no.jpg

Shift boot will be replaced with something more "awesome"
xeJkV3565PyLKDnajXh2Evp6waU0Nq42HUVOYJYRpqV84FyWdT5AJ42wJgMXXmEq3WWvTN0TDo5qBgrAWM=w1318-h988-no.jpg
 

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
6,939
AZ
So the shift 'knob' is getting female threads and the shifter linkage part is getting the top cut off and male threads put on, right? Any reason you don't just weld it on, is removal more difficult that way?
 

TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
So the shift 'knob' is getting female threads and the shifter linkage part is getting the top cut off and male threads put on, right? Any reason you don't just weld it on, is removal more difficult that way?
The 6" rod attached to the knob already has internal M10x1.5 threads cut, you are correct with the rest of the process.

I am choosing to cut threads so the shifter will be modular and I can swap in other length rods if needed. Nice to have options.

Evan
 
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TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
When pulling my shifter I noticed the PVC insert I made to firm up the shifter arm bushing had slid forward and out of position.
ndMn8ajhoB-NiFxypHMGCB2Ck_lyaYVWzpN8_m9JmB0Wtx_K-3NrF4VicOyY6eXnmBZ4Uk6MPuT6WbCZF8=w1318-h988-no.jpg

I secured it in position with some wire.
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Shifter modified to accept threaded rods.
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Installed
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The shift rod and knob are solid stainless steel and quite heavy to the added weight and leverage really smooth things out which is a welcomed addition to the UUC's already very notchy and very direct movement. The shifter is a tad "floppy" with all that weight up top but this is only noticed when checking the shifter isn't in gear and other light movements, while driving when the shifter is used with intent it feels great. There is also a sense of occasion when using it from the looks, surface, shape, etc. Just what I was going for.
Up next is a custom boot to replace the overly saggy oem leather piece.
Evan
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TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
Are you going to have a custom boot made?
Yes, haven't decided on the fabric yet but thinking of a plaid, something similar to the GTI boot but with tan instead of red. Which ever fabric it is I want it to be tidy with enough room for full range of motion but no excessive fabric.

Audi does a good job with "tidy" boots on their electronic gear selectors.
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TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
Install Error: Noticed the silicone elbow on my IC getting rubbed by a mounting tab on the subframe. There wasn't a hole but silicone was compromised so it was replaced. If it continues with engine movement the tab will be removed, I didn't like it anyway.
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With my new slightly taller shifter setup I would smack my phone from time to time while rowing gears so I came up with a different solution. Not ideal as it is now lower but I mainly use the app for checking temps and datalogging so no real concerns. It does clean up the center stack a bit which is nice and access to HVAC is unobstructed but most importantly, room to shift.
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
6,939
AZ
What tab is that exactly? Luckily the ADE FMIC has an aluminum up pipe there so I shouldn't have to worry about it.
 

TwinTurboWagon

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
85
San Diego
What tab is that exactly? Luckily the ADE FMIC has an aluminum up pipe there so I shouldn't have to worry about it.
Not sure exactly but my guess is a mounting point for some of the oem under carriage splash guard, which I am not running since I have M5 bumpers and 535xi subframe and engine and BMW doesn't make parts which connect the two. Hoping most of it will bolt up once I get the RWD subframe.
 
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