What is the best BBK for the money?

LMB335is

Sergeant
Apr 12, 2017
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I can tell you anything you want to know but the machine work by Fab Factory was $200-225 I think, a complete F30 M Performance brake kit with front and rear rotors runs $1700-2000 depending on how hard you search, and a used M3 master cylinder on Ebay usually runs $100 or less. There's some odds and end you'll need too, like brake fluid, drill bits, and tools, depending on how good your set is. I'm cross posting a link to a detailed writeup about what I did with the rears.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21203429&postcount=702
 
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
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I can tell you anything you want to know but the machine work by Fab Factory was $200-225 I think, a complete F30 M Performance brake kit with front and rear rotors runs $1700-2000 depending on how hard you search, and a used M3 master cylinder on Ebay usually runs $100 or less. There's some odds and end you'll need too, like brake fluid, drill bits, and tools, depending on how good your set is. I'm cross posting a link to a detailed writeup about what I did with the rears.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21203429&postcount=702

The part number: 34112221445 Shows ebay listings for sale at 1700. I wonder if a used set could be found for cheaper...
 

A4RingedONE8T

Specialist
Nov 1, 2016
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So is there a price or any details on this?

@A4RingedONE8T

@LMB335is good to see all worked out and is proper fitting! Honestly I've machined 4 or 5 sets of these now and haven't had much feedback whether all is proper or needed any further modification. Good to see some discussion!

I have fixture and programming setup, the hardened steel inserts are a bitch to run through but can do! Pricing is $199 + shipping, can turn them around in a few days depending on the config of my mills on any given day. Anyone interested feel free to email me, [email protected]

-Shawn-
 
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A4RingedONE8T

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Nov 1, 2016
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FWIW a few have requested a 12mm ear remaining, @LMB335is I believe asked for 11.5mm, I'd have to look at the machining parameters to verify those specs but I can offer any offset in this regards that is requested.
 

LMB335is

Sergeant
Apr 12, 2017
301
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The part number: 34112221445 Shows ebay listings for sale at 1700. I wonder if a used set could be found for cheaper...
They do pop up used occasionally over on the "other" forum. Most people just opt for the fronts because they're afraid of what's involved with the rears. Once you've done it it's not nearly as intimidating as it seemed
 

LMB335is

Sergeant
Apr 12, 2017
301
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0
FOB FL
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13 335is
@LMB335is good to see all worked out and is proper fitting! Honestly I've machined 4 or 5 sets of these now and haven't had much feedback whether all is proper or needed any further modification. Good to see some discussion!

I have fixture and programming setup, the hardened steel inserts are a bitch to run through but can do! Pricing is $199 + shipping, can turn them around in a few days depending on the config of my mills on any given day. Anyone interested feel free to email me, [email protected]

-Shawn-
Hey man, just jumped on this forum, glad to see you guys here. It works fantastic and the machine work is top notch. I opted for 11.5mm based on feedback from the guys that first had this done. 12mm is good, 11.5 just makes it a bit easier without really compromising the strength of the mounting tab. I would imagine there's a mm or so of variation from car to car anyways. I've pointed several people in your direction. Hell, I even offered to let them ship them to me and take them to the shop and send them back but now that I see that you offer shipping as well that makes it a no brainer.
 
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doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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FWIW a few have requested a 12mm ear remaining, @LMB335is I believe asked for 11.5mm, I'd have to look at the machining parameters to verify those specs but I can offer any offset in this regards that is requested.

What about machining of the knuckle? I think I've heard of this being done instead.
 

LMB335is

Sergeant
Apr 12, 2017
301
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What about machining of the knuckle? I think I've heard of this being done instead.
You can split the difference between the caliper and the knuckle it's just way more work unless you're pulling the knuckles anyways. That's the cleanest solution after the ridiculously expensive ECS Tuning kit ($4k+) but you'd need to create another jig and at least double the labor time for the installation. If you're doing the work yourself and don't need the car for a week or two it's viable.
 
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A4RingedONE8T

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What about machining of the knuckle? I think I've heard of this being done instead.

I know absolutely nothing in regards to this swap or what is needed, @LMB335is brought the machine work to my attention, told me to machine the ear to 11.5 thickness, I did so. Wouldn't know what parts are used or where to begin with this setup, nor do I really care honestly. Ask for machine work, receive machine work =)
 
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LMB335is

Sergeant
Apr 12, 2017
301
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I know absolutely nothing in regards to this swap or what is needed, @LMB335is brought the machine work to my attention, told me to machine the ear to 11.5 thickness, I did so. Wouldn't know what parts are used or where to begin with this setup, nor do I really care honestly. Ask for machine work, receive machine work =)

Here's the deal on that. The difference in offset/backspacing from the E9x rotor to the F3x rotor is 6-7mm. What I/we did was take 4.5mm off the mounting tab, shave a mm or so off the inside brake pad and call it a day. It's a tight fit but it works well. A alternative is to split that 6-7mm between the caliper mounting tab and wheel knuckle mounting tab by shaving approx 3-3.5 mm off of each for a perfectly centered rotor. It's a cleaner solution but it's a ton of extra labor and doubles the machining for a slightly better result
 

doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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Here's the deal on that. The difference in offset/backspacing from the E9x rotor to the F3x rotor is 6-7mm. What I/we did was take 4.5mm off the mounting tab, shave a mm or so off the inside brake pad and call it a day. It's a tight fit but it works well. A alternative is to split that 6-7mm between the caliper mounting tab and wheel knuckle mounting tab by shaving approx 3-3.5 mm off of each for a perfectly centered rotor. It's a cleaner solution but it's a ton of extra labor and doubles the machining for a slightly better result

If someone were to be serious with the brakes, maybe they would consider this then. The biggest resale value would be with the calipers already adjusted to fit the recipient car, so I think the knuckle method may not be the best for most people.

I know absolutely nothing in regards to this swap or what is needed, @LMB335is brought the machine work to my attention, told me to machine the ear to 11.5 thickness, I did so. Wouldn't know what parts are used or where to begin with this setup, nor do I really care honestly. Ask for machine work, receive machine work =)

Fair enough! When I get my hands on a set of rotors then I'll hit you up. Might be a while though since I've got so much other stuff to buy still it seems.
 

LMB335is

Sergeant
Apr 12, 2017
301
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If someone were to be serious with the brakes, maybe they would consider this then. The biggest resale value would be with the calipers already adjusted to fit the recipient car, so I think the knuckle method may not be the best for most people.

No question the method I used is the most cost and labor effective, and has potential resale value. I enjoy symmetry as much as the next guy but the other way is waaay more complicated and time consuming for a mm of two, lol.
 

Davidwarren

Corporal
Nov 6, 2016
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Louisville
Worry about a BBK when you need it. Unless your getting it strictly for aesthetics.
Typically a set of PFC 08 pads, stainless lines, Typ200 brake fluid and bronze brake pins will solve almost anyone's problem.
IF the brake fluid still is being compromised (overheated) Titanium shims between the caliper piston and brake pad.
IF that doesn't fix it, brake ducts to cool them.
IF that doesn't fix it, a BBK or driving instruction is needed.
Granted, we put temperature reactive paint on our rotors, pads, caliper pots and hubs so we can see how hot things get and if we're exceeding the zone of usefulness.
Yup. I progressed through each of these steps (except the Ti shims) until I actually needed a BBK after a few years of tracking the car. But now I am really glad I have the BBK. I went with stoptech all around.
 
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A4RingedONE8T

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Nov 1, 2016
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Made a short video yesterday as I ran a set of ///M Performance calipers through the Fab Factory caliper treatment. Figured I would share the video and a few pictures here. Machining the hardened steel inserts has took a little bit of process refining over the sets of these I have done but finally have it on lock and getting some perfect shiny toolpath on these!


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LMB335is

Sergeant
Apr 12, 2017
301
189
0
FOB FL
Ride
13 335is
Made a short video yesterday as I ran a set of ///M Performance calipers through the Fab Factory caliper treatment. Figured I would share the video and a few pictures here. Machining the hardened steel inserts has took a little bit of process refining over the sets of these I have done but finally have it on lock and getting some perfect shiny toolpath on these!


View attachment 5516 View attachment 5517 View attachment 5518 View attachment 5519 View attachment 5520

That looks really good Shawn. You guys have really dialed that in now.
 

Mark Winter

Lurker
Nov 7, 2016
17
9
0
Tampa
Ride
08 335
Got these from ECS...a while back for $1200. there is a huge difference in stopping power and brake fade is pretty much non-issue.

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