XClutch Twin Disc Review & Installation (6MT N54)

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The Convert

Captain
Jun 4, 2017
1,114
I have minimal to next to no nvh in high load low rpm situations but I run stock bushes, stock mounts and factory oil with a full titanium akrapovic exhaust, akra in their infinite wisdom put flex joints in their dp but they are tiny compared to AR design

Even though they are near a perfect fit still need some kind of flex joint to relive fitment situations.

When I ran the stock mids they where horrible and definitely need some kind of flex joint.

GGMR2T try the flex joint on both your mids and you will be pleasantly surprised how much better the fitment gets and lowers the nvh.

Not saying it will get rid of all as there is to many variables in most peoples setups but it did in mine and will definitely help a lot in most.
Is your exhaust the full titanium version? If so, mind throwing some sound clips up? I’d love to hear it.
 

martymil

Captain
Sep 6, 2017
1,037
Down Under
The exhaust is not really the problem but solves it.

It's all the aftermarket 3" dp, some fit better than others but are mostly less than stallar.
 

fmorelli

Colonel
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
2,448
Virginia
So true on the DP. You can work them some a few ways (pry bar, unbolt, etc) ... but yeah I agree! The first set I tried to install, I sent back. Second set was good enough. "Slap it on" doesn't work for stuff like DP's and turbo outlet on these cars.

Filippo
 

Torgus

Captain
Nov 6, 2016
1,312
Boston
I would think that is the case for inexpensive downpipes made in China. I don't recall hearing fitment issues with AR or CPE or any of the higher end DPs iirc. I assume much better quality control. But few want to pay for it.
 

rac

Corporal
Nov 14, 2016
121
Australia
Pretty much sums up everything I said all in one post, it will make it easier to find all the info with visual aid for new customers.
You've had the organic version for a good while now Marty, is the experience still all as positive as the initial reviews?
 

ShocknAwe

Lieutenant
Jan 24, 2018
753
SC
Is there a consensus here on what TOB to use with this clutch. Especially the organic version? Seen it both ways a hundred times now and undecided.

Also. On pivot pin, I know not to get brass, but better to go with stainless or OE?

Any other must have parts to minimize clutch/trans NVH? My DPs fit with good spacing between themselves and the frame rails, already have RE trans mounts, and have revshift 80A engine mounts to go in. Modified CDV is done, using Redline MTL fluid, and fine to raise the idle as necessary.

As for the clutch pedal, undecided on doing delrin bushings vs the UCP. Been using a clutch stop for years. What's the best way to set the pedal position?

Appreciate it fellas.
 
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fmorelli

Colonel
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
2,448
Virginia
I'm going with AGA silicone bronze (FCPEuro). If memory serves, it is self-lubricating, though you want to install it with grease per usual. Here's the pitch lol:


I bought a LUK arm/TOB because I was unsure as well which to run. I will probably run the LUK and not the metal one as I'm not a holeshot kinda guy. That said, I don't think you'll get a definitive answer, as you are asking ... for the reason you pointed out in your original post :tongueout:

Filippo
 
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ShocknAwe

Lieutenant
Jan 24, 2018
753
SC
I'm going with AGA silicone bronze (FCPEuro). If memory serves, it is self-lubricating, though you want to install it with grease per usual. Here's the pitch lol:


I bought a LUK arm/TOB because I was unsure as well which to run. I will probably run the LUK and not the metal one as I'm not a holeshot kinda guy. That said, I don't think you'll get a definitive answer, as you are asking ... for the reason you pointed out in your original post :tongueout:

Filippo
Fair. Guess I'm looking for evidence the Luk/BMW TOB will work without being a maintenance nightmare. I'm not too sensitive to NVH but at some point it adds up and becomes ... That car.
 

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