E89 Z4 Track-ready Sleeper Build

[Asbjorn]

FYI

Green circle: Location of vacuum valve controlling the exhaust flaps

Red circle: Where we installed the remote control for the exhaust vacuum valve. It works by controlling a switch which sits inline with the DME signal to the valve. So what it does is turning on and off the signal from the dme to the vacuum valve.

When the valve is disabled by the remote (exhaust constantly open) DME code 2F6C is thrown. Same code as if the valve was manually disconnected from the wire.

 

[Asbjorn]

So after having run the remote controlled exhaust flap for a week, I must say it is sooo nice to be able to enable and disable the DME signal. Since my Z4 runs two exhaust flaps, with the flaps closed, the car is actually more quiet than stock. My only worry now is whether I am actually hurting the engine when cruising with such a restrictive exhaust. Someone please tell me I worry too much. The way I run two flaps is by having the passengers side muffler installed on both sides.

Yesterday we finished installing the separate water methanol container with level switch for the injection system. I went with a 7L / 1.8 gallon container priced at USD 4. It is exactly the same type of container used by local chinese WMI brands sold at +70usd. Felt pretty good when I figured out which supplier they were using haha.

What this means is that I can now run permanent WMI. I no longer need to worry about using water from the warm wind screen washer fluid tank. Also I can add methanol as I don't need to worry about the contents ending up on the wind screen. The wind screen washer fluid tank will still serve as container for the external water spray.

We also managed to wire up the new oil pressure switch to a loud siren mounted inside the cabin. The switch replaces my previous oil pressure sensor, as I will no longer be running an oil pressure gauge.

The switch is adjustable between 1-5bar, and we set it so that the siren starts making noise when the pressure drops to around 50-60psi, which happens at idle when the oil reaches 75-80C. This means, when the siren is turned on, it will sound at idle, and turn off as you drive off. As you drive around the track, it wont sound unless oil pressure drops below that set point. I like this alot, as all experience shows I don't see any warnings on the dash when pushing on track. Some track cars are so loud that you can barely hear your own car when passing them.

The switch used to turn off the siren is linked to the external water spray as well as the semi-dry oil sump, so it acts as a reminder that those systems are still on when idling in pit, which gives it a nice dual purpose. Of course none of these systems are to be used on street either.

It took four hours just to figure out all the wiring, so hopefully we don't have to do that again haha.

Now Im just waiting for my dampers to finish production, and then there's the rod bearings and oil sump enlargement. Last topic is wider wheels, but that can wait.

 

[F87Source]

So after having run the remote controlled exhaust flap for one week, I must say it is sooo nice to be able to enable and disable the DME signal. Since my Z4 runs two exhaust flaps, with the flaps closed, the car is actually more quiet than stock. My only worry now is whether I am actually hurting the engine when cruising with such a restrictive exhaust. Someone please tell me I worry too much. The way I run two flaps is by having the passengers side muffler installed on both sides.

Yesterday we finished installing the separate water methanol container with level switch for the injection system. I went with a 7L / 1.8 gallon container priced at USD 4. It is exactly the same type of container used by local chinese WMI brands sold at +70usd. Felt pretty good when I figured out which supplier they were using haha.

View attachment 36458

What this means is that I can now run permanent WMI. I no longer need to worry about using water from the warm wind screen washer fluid tank. Also I can add methanol as I don't need to worry about the contents ending up on the wind screen. The wind screen washer fluid tank will still serve as container for the external water spray.

View attachment 36456

We also managed to wire up the new oil pressure switch to a loud siren mounted inside the cabin. The switch replaces my previous oil pressure sensor, as I will no longer be running an oil pressure gauge.

View attachment 36457

The switch is adjustable between 1-5bar, and we set it so that the siren starts making noise when the pressure drops to around 50-60psi, which happens at idle when the oil reaches 75-80C. This means, when the siren is turned on, it will sound at idle, and turn off as you drive off. As you drive around the track, it wont sound unless oil pressure drops below that set point. I like this alot, as all experience shows I don't see any warnings on the dash when pushing on track. Some track cars are so loud that you can barely hear your own car when passing them.

The switch used to turn off the siren is linked to the external water spray as well as the semi-dry oil sump, so it acts as a reminder that those systems are still on when idling in pit, which gives it a nice dual purpose. Of course none of these systems are to be used on street either.

It took four hours just to figure out all the wiring, so hopefully we don't have to do that again haha.

Now Im just waiting for my dampers to finish production, and then there's the rod bearings and oil sump enlargement. Last topic is wider wheels, but that can wait.

Really nice!

You're so lucky you have access to cheap but quality parts, for me everything is super expensive especially when I import things from the states as the Canadian dollar is pretty weak now a days.

Btw: Make sure you vent the water methanol tank out side when using methanol, otherwise you risk breathing in methanol fumes which when processed by liver enzymes becomes formaldehyde and causes blindness if a high enough concentration is present, or long term exposure.

 

[Asbjorn]

Really nice!

You're so lucky you have access to cheap but quality parts, for me everything is super expensive especially when I import things from the states as the Canadian dollar is pretty weak now a days.

Btw: Make sure you vent the water methanol tank out side when using methanol, otherwise you risk breathing in methanol fumes which when processed by liver enzymes becomes formaldehyde and causes blindness if a high enough concentration is present, or long term exposure.

I don't smell anything from the container. The container + cap is meant to be used for gasoline. Do I still need to worry?

(Edit: checked with the seller, all these tanks have two way ventilation unless you buy something special)

 

[F87Source]

I don't smell anything from the container. The container + cap is meant to be used for gasoline. Do I still need to worry?

Personally I always air on the side of caution, alot of people don't care or call me paranoid. But better safe than sorry. Plus reputable methanol injection companies have precautions for this, like aquamist selling externally vented tanks.

Methanol doesn't smell too much when diluted with water. But yes it will still leak out because the cap isn't (well it shouldn't be) air tight, otherwise it'll create a vacuum in the tank and therefore it will not be able to pump anything.

So there are a few options:

1) get a check valve cap like bms sells.
2) get a cap with an oring that does seal tight, drill a hole in the cap install a check valve and run a hose from said check valve outside of the car to a pcv filter. This way if the car rolls over no fluid will spill, and when the tank sucks in air the check valve will open and draw air in from outside which will be filtered. And in the event a small amount of methanol goes past the check valve it'll go outside.

 

[Asbjorn]

Personally I always air on the side of caution, alot of people don't care or call me paranoid. But better safe than sorry. Plus reputable methanol injection companies have precautions for this, like aquamist selling externally vented tanks.

Methanol doesn't smell too much when diluted with water. But yes it will still leak out because the cap isn't (well it shouldn't be) air tight, otherwise it'll create a vacuum in the tank and therefore it will not be able to pump anything.

So there are a few options:

1) get a check valve cap like bms sells.
2) get a cap with an oring that does seal tight, drill a hole in the cap install a check valve and run a hose from said check valve outside of the car to a pcv filter. This way if the car rolls over no fluid will spill, and when the tank sucks in air the check valve will open and draw air in from outside which will be filtered. And in the event a small amount of methanol goes past the check valve it'll go outside.

Excellent suggestion. The cap is vented indeed. There's a small hole on top of it.

Back to the workshop we go...

 

[F87Source]

Excellent suggestion. The cap is vented indeed. There's a small hole on top of it.

Back to the workshop we go...

Good luck, I'm just trying to look out for my fellow car enthusiasts since I've already been there and done that. I've got alot of experience with water methanol injection, so I always love to chime in on that.

 

[Asbjorn]

Good luck, I'm just trying to look out for my fellow car enthusiasts since I've already been there and done that. I've got alot of experience with water methanol injection, so I always love to chime in on that.

Much appreciated. We're sourcing the parts now. Should be an easy fix I just wasn't aware before.

Next problem is stfts going more negative and then flatlining post shift with the wmi, so probably need a dedicated meth map with stfts much closer to zero.

datazap.me | Asbjoern | BQ v36L - RON95 - WMI

datazap.me

 

[F87Source]

Much appreciated. We're sourcing the parts now. Should be an easy fix I just wasn't aware before.

Next problem is stfts going more negative and then flatlining post shift with the wmi, so probably need a dedicated meth map with stfts much closer to zero.

datazap.me | Asbjoern | BQ v36L - RON95 - WMI

datazap.me

What meth controller are you using? Because some of the cheaper ones don't cut meth flow during shifts or misfires causing hyper lean conditions in the cylinder which can melt pistons.

I recommend getting a quality meth controller like torqbyte's cm5-lts

 

[Asbjorn]

What meth controller are you using? Because some of the cheaper ones don't cut meth flow during shifts or misfires causing hyper lean conditions in the cylinder which can melt pistons.

I recommend getting a quality meth controller like torqbyte's cm5-lts

Never heard of this. Is it true even for 50/50 wmi on DCT? I just use a pressure switch, 10psi or so. The car wont be tuned for meth in terms of power, so Im only doing it to add an extra layer for protection against knock.

The stft flatlinging issue was also there with pure WI, and was solved by adjusting the trims.

 

[F87Source]

Never heard of this. Is it true even for 50/50 wmi on DCT? I just use a pressure switch, 10psi or so. The car wont be tuned for meth, so Im only doing it to add an extra layer for protection against knock.

The stft flatlinging issue was also there with pure WI, and was solved by adjusting the trims.

As long as there is fuel being injected i.e. methanol there will be a hyper lean condition if the car shuts off fuel injection but not spark to ensure all fuel is burned (misfires). This was a huge issue for PI guys so MHD implemented a fix which was not only to cut off an injection but a coil as well during a misfire. You should check this box when using it with meth just incase of a misfire.

In regards to if it happens during a shift it depends, some meth controllers just spray as long as boost is present i.e. crappy meth kits that only work off a hobbs switch. So if your meth controller is poor quality it will spray no matter what. If you have aquamist it will mirror the injectors so if no fuel is flowing it wont spray. If you have torqbyte you could probably have it cut off spray during misfires, off throttles etc. There's so much to discuss on this topic I could literally type forever but to keep it short and simple I tried to condense it as much as possible.

You also have to consider what would happen if your meth injection cut off due to a ruptured line, clog, failed pump, low fluid level etc. A crap system would not do anything and the engine would experience knock or a lean condition because all of a sudden the meth stopped flowing. A smart meth controller would detect this via a flow sensor, pump current etc and ground the waste gate causing boost to dump and go into limp mode saving your motor.

You also have to consider atomization and solenoid speed, only some meth kits come with meth injectors that are capable of atomizing good enough for perfect distribution. You also have to consider check valves to prevent siphoning etc. also not all meth fittings are created equal, some of them werent designed for meth and will leak, push connect fittings are mostly crap, I would only go compressions.


All in all there is only two companies I recommend: torqbyte and aquamist (they also make the best parts for meth). prometh has some decent parts but they dont sell any controllers worth buying imo.


Yeah I understand what you're trying to do, I also had a set up on previous cars that use just water for additional cooling. I never like relying on meth injection for octane because of the chance it doesn't get to all cylinders equally. But regardless I always use quality controllers to prevent anything from going wrong, such as hyper lean conditions, or hydrolock.

 

[Asbjorn]

As long as there is fuel being injected i.e. methanol there will be a hyper lean condition if the car shuts off fuel injection but not spark to ensure all fuel is burned (misfires). This was a huge issue for PI guys so MHD implemented a fix which was not only to cut off an injection but a coil as well during a misfire. You should check this box when using it with meth just incase of a misfire.

In regards to if it happens during a shift it depends, some meth controllers just spray as long as boost is present i.e. crappy meth kits that only work off a hobbs switch. So if your meth controller is poor quality it will spray no matter what. If you have aquamist it will mirror the injectors so if no fuel is flowing it wont spray. If you have torqbyte you could probably have it cut off spray during misfires, off throttles etc. There's so much to discuss on this topic I could literally type forever but to keep it short and simple I tried to condense it as much as possible.

You also have to consider what would happen if your meth injection cut off due to a ruptured line, clog, failed pump, low fluid level etc. A crap system would not do anything and the engine would experience knock or a lean condition because all of a sudden the meth stopped flowing. A smart meth controller would detect this via a flow sensor, pump current etc and ground the waste gate causing boost to dump and go into limp mode saving your motor.

You also have to consider atomization and solenoid speed, only some meth kits come with meth injectors that are capable of atomizing good enough for perfect distribution. You also have to consider check valves to prevent siphoning etc. also not all meth fittings are created equal, some of them werent designed for meth and will leak, push connect fittings are mostly crap, I would only go compressions.


All in all there is only two companies I recommend: torqbyte and aquamist (they also make the best parts for meth). prometh has some decent parts but they dont sell any controllers worth buying imo.


Yeah I understand what you're trying to do, I also had a set up on previous cars that use just water for additional cooling. I never like relying on meth injection for octane because of the chance it doesn't get to all cylinders equally. But regardless I always use quality controllers to prevent anything from going wrong, such as hyper lean conditions, or hydrolock.

I am not relying on meth for octane. I have two maps. One developed for pure RON95 and one for RON98 respectively. I intend to run the 95 map with 98 + meth for endurance racing or practice and the 98 map with 98 + meth for time attack. For street I just use 95 map plus whatever gas I can get plus meth if theres any in the container.

This means that even when the container runs dry, I still have enough octane.

What has happened on track is fuel cut out due to fuel starvation going around turns. What I have also had is misfires due to spark plugs coming loose. Other than that I haven't been plagued by misfires for ages. But if I understand you correctly, I just need to find the check box in MHD and then I am good on this. Are there any down-sides to using this, like if I go back to just pure water injection or no injection?

So the only issue remaining is spraying under shifting. There is no doubt that this is happening. The only way to solve this problem is going back to pure water, or upgrading the controller. Is this correctly understood?

I am using a hobbs switch from snow performance. All parts are from snow. I just sourced the containers myself. The injector use for injection is 375cc with a check valve.

 

[F87Source]

I am not relying on meth for octane. I have two maps. One developed for pure RON95 and one for RON98 respectively. I intend to run the 95 map with 98 + meth for endurance racing or practice and the 98 map with 98 + meth for time attack. For street I just use 95 map plus whatever gas I can get plus meth if theres any in the container.

This means that even when the container runs dry, I still have enough octane.

What has happened on track is fuel cut out due to fuel starvation going around turns. What I have also had is misfires due to spark plugs coming loose. Other than that I haven't been plagued by misfires for ages. But if I understand you correctly, I just need to find the check box in MHD and then I am good on this. Are there any down-sides to using this, like if I go back to just pure water injection or no injection?

So the only issue remaining is spraying under shifting. There is no doubt that this is happening. The only way to solve this problem is going back to pure water, or upgrading the controller. Is this correctly understood?

I am using a hobbs switch from snow performance. All parts are from snow. I just sourced the containers myself. The injector use for injection is 375cc with a check valve.

1) That's good you're not relying on it for octane, especially if you dont have fail safes. Just because you aren't relying on it for octane doesn't mean a tank running dry won't cause issues, especially if it makes the car go lean. Also if the tank goes dry and the pump keeps going you will kill the pump.

2) The misfire box for MHD will cut the coils to prevent hyperlean conditions in the event you experience a misfire with PI or meth. However this won't save you from everything because if the meth kit stays on you can still flood the cylinders with alot of water. Whether or not this can hydrolock the motor is unknown well atleast from what I've seen, it's probably unlikely unless you spray alot of water because high cylinder temps will evaporate the water but too much water will cool it down enough where water can pool. This still does not excuse you from having a proper fail safe, because if you're using meth you are supplementing fuel. So if all of a sudden meth stops flowing you go lean and depending on how lean you go you can cause damage if the car doesn't correct it in time. Therefore it is better to have a failsafe to prevent it from happening in the first place. I prefer to use distilled water because you can't experience hyper lean conditions if it's not combustible, you still need a failsafe to prevent hydrolock. You should be fine to run water or meth and water or pure meth as long as you have a good system.

3) The issue with a hobbs switch method of control is it is only on and off, this dumps a crap ton of fluid into the motor distrupting afrs etc and making the car upset, especially when shifting and the car dials back fuel flow but the meth kit keeps dumping. The solution is a progressive controller, the only ones capable of doing that properly is aquamist and torqbyte, because of a few things: they don't base injection off of purely boost they follow other parameters like rpm, boost, fuel injector duty cycle etc. They also pulse the solenoid not the pump allowing for a faster response, and fuel injector like characteristics, especially with aquamist's fav which is essentially like a fuel injector for meth. So essentially you need to get a controller to fix your shift bogging issues, and a tune would help too. Talk to justin at twistedtuning, he sells torqbyte controllers too but rebranded, so he can help you dial in your setup. Shifting back to pure water with the same setup wont help you in this case, you need a proper meth controller, and if you buy one please buy a quality one, there are so many big name companies out there that make absolute garbage stuff, so do your research.

4) I won't talk about bad companies since I don't like to talk bad about companies in particular, but lets say I've used (or experienced them in one way or another) them all and the only ones I would use again is torqbyte, aquamist, and some of prometh's components. That's pretty much it, nothing else.

 

[F87Source]

Torqbyte has some really good explainations on their site about water methanol injection:

Using the Factory BMW T/MAP Sensors with the CM5-LTS

In most BMW applications with a CM5-LTS WMI controller, it is preferred to obtain boost readings by "teeing" into the factory TMAP sensor wiring. Below is the information on how to do this for several popular BMW TMAPs we have tested. The numbers below are derived from a sample of one sensor...

torqbyte.com

https://torqbyte.com/products/cm5-lts-water-methanol-injection-controller

 

[Asbjorn]

1) That's good you're not relying on it for octane, especially if you dont have fail safes. Just because you aren't relying on it for octane doesn't mean a tank running dry won't cause issues, especially if it makes the car go lean. Also if the tank goes dry and the pump keeps going you will kill the pump.

2) The misfire box for MHD will cut the coils to prevent hyperlean conditions in the event you experience a misfire with PI or meth. However this won't save you from everything because if the meth kit stays on you can still flood the cylinders with alot of water. Whether or not this can hydrolock the motor is unknown, it's probably unlikely unless you spray alot of water. This still does not excuse you from having a proper fail safe, because if you're using meth you are supplementing fuel. So if all of a sudden meth stops flowing you go lean and depending on how lean you go you can cause damage if the car doesn't correct it in time. Therefore it is better to have a failsafe to prevent it from happening in the first place. I prefer to use distilled water because you can't experience hyper lean conditions if it's not combustible, you still need a failsafe to prevent hydrolock. You should be fine to run water or meth and water or pure meth as long as you have a good system.

3) The issue with a hobbs switch method of control is it is only on and off, this dumps a crap ton of fluid into the motor distrupting afrs etc and making the car upset, especially when shifting and the car dials back fuel flow but the meth kit keeps dumping. The solution is a progressive controller, the only ones capable of doing that properly is aquamist and torqbyte, because of a few things: they don't base injection off of purely boost they follow other parameters like rpm, boost, fuel injector duty cycle etc. They also pulse the solenoid not the pump allowing for a faster response, and fuel injector like characteristics, especially with aquamist's fav which is essentially like a fuel injector for meth. So essentially you need to get a controller to fix your shift bogging issues, and a tune would help too. Talk to justin at twistedtuning, he sells torqbyte controllers too but rebranded, so he can help you dial in your setup. Shifting back to pure water with the same setup wont help you in this case, you need a proper meth controller, and if you buy one please buy a quality one, there are so many big name companies out there that make absolute garbage stuff, so do your research.

4) I won't talk about bad companies since I don't like to talk bad about companies in particular, but lets say I've used (or experienced them in one way or another) them all and the only ones I would use again is torqbyte, aquamist, and some of prometh's components. That's pretty much it, nothing else.

Thanks for all the information. It is really helpful.

I just want to sum up again. The super low risk of hydrolocking aside, I dont hurt the engine by running water injection, even it keeps spraying through shifting. Is this correct? And also I don't need the mhd option if I just use pure water right?

 

[F87Source]

Thanks for all the information. It is really helpful.

I just want to sum up again. The super low risk of hydrolocking aside, I dont hurt the engine by running water injection, even it keeps spraying through shifting. Is this correct? And also I don't need the mhd option if I just use pure water right?

No problem, I just didn't want to see you fall into danger zone like so many other meth users. I really didn't like talking about this since I keep getting so much crap that I was "brand picking" and I was "insane" and all meth kits are the same. Till motors were blown or meth kits were leaking. Then people started to realize there is a difference between meth kits, and I'm not just brand biasing.


Umm since you have a dct and shifts are pretty quick you should be ok since your Hobbs switch is decently high at 10 psi. But your meth nozzle might be too big for pure water and your horsepower rating. there is a nozzle size to horsepower formula for different mixtures of meth and water all the way to pure water. You should use that formula to make sure you're not over spraying. It's on promeths site for their nozzles, aquamist has a more comprehensive formula on their site but you need to know alot more about your car to calculate it.

I'd still rather have the meth kit realize you're off throttle and lower flow if not cutting it during the shifts so you don't have a jerky jerky driving experience. And by no means do I think having a Hobbs switch kit ok. Also note as long as you have boost (that can trigger the Hobbs switch) in the charge pipes you will spray water at full capacity of your system regardless of load, so essentially you can be over spraying and this is not ideal. But at least with pure water if the kit fails you don't go lean.


No with pure water mhd's option is not required, because you can't go hyperlean with incombustible water being sprayed in. It will cool the cylinders instead.


Overall I recommend you rethink your meth setup next if you have the time and or budget. I don't want to be rude, but your setup is borderline rudimentary as is, and I would only use it as an intercooler and radiator sprayer setup.


Sorry if my thoughts are all over the place, I ramble alot and don't really proof read too well on a phone.

 

[F87Source]

I forgot to mention, bms has some new compression fittings for meth with Teflon oring sleeves for pretty cheap. Those seem to be decent, but I've yet to try them out.Nozzle sizes they offer are limited though.

Here comes some random but of knowledge I have to mention before I forget:

I also forgot to mention filters in the meth kit are super important or you'll get clogged nozzles. Check valve jets with filters like what aquamist sells is great.


Also place the check valve as close to the nozzle as possible to prevent siphoning.

Never use Teflon tape, use the paste. You know want flakes ending up in your charge pipes.

 

[Asbjorn]

No problem, I just didn't want to see you fall into danger zone like so many other meth users. I really didn't like talking about this since I keep getting so much crap that I was "brand picking" and I was "insane" and all meth kits are the same. Till motors were blown or meth kits were leaking. Then people started to realize there is a difference between meth kits, and I'm not just brand biasing.


Umm since you have a dct and shifts are pretty quick you should be ok since your Hobbs switch is decently high at 10 psi. But your meth nozzle might be too big for pure water and your horsepower rating. there is a nozzle size to horsepower formula for different mixtures of meth and water all the way to pure water. You should use that formula to make sure you're not over spraying. It's on promeths site for their nozzles, aquamist has a more comprehensive formula on their site but you need to know alot more about your car to calculate it.

I'd still rather have the meth kit realize you're off throttle and lower flow if not cutting it during the shifts so you don't have a jerky jerky driving experience. And by no means do I think having a Hobbs switch kit ok. Also note as long as you have boost (that can trigger the Hobbs switch) in the charge pipes you will spray water at full capacity of your system regardless of load, so essentially you can be over spraying and this is not ideal. But at least with pure water if the kit fails you don't go lean.


No with pure water mhd's option is not required, because you can't go hyperlean with incombustible water being sprayed in. It will cool the cylinders instead.


Overall I recommend you rethink your meth setup next if you have the time and or budget. I don't want to be rude, but your setup is borderline rudimentary as is, and I would only use it as an intercooler and radiator sprayer setup.


Sorry if my thoughts are all over the place, I ramble alot and don't really proof read too well on a phone.

No your comments are very much appreciated, and I just took action. I removed the 50/50 water meth mixture from the container and added 5L of purified water instead. Now at least I don't need to worry about melting pistons, going blind and stft flatlining post shift, here's a new log:

datazap.me | Asbjoern | BQ v36L - RON95 - WI

datazap.me

Regarding nozzle size, I found this on pro meths website

Quick Jetting Guide:

100% water target 8-10% of fuel flow
50/50 mix target 15–20% of fuel flow
100% methanol target 20–25% of fuel flow


If you don't know fuel flow you can do the following.

Horsepower @ crank x .5 = CC jetting (pure water)
Horsepower @ crank x 1.0 = CC jetting (50/50 mix)
Horsepower @ crank x 1.5-2.0 = CC jetting (pure methanol)

For example. 1000 horsepower. You would use 500cc pure water, 1000cc 50/50 mix and between 1500-2000cc pure methanol. Keep in mind these are figures to start with and do not take into consideration all the variables that we have found to affect jetting size. There are many other variables to consider. If you need help selecting a nozzle size feel free to call us directly for technical help.

According to this, I should be using a 450 x .5 = 225cc nozzle fore pure water.

 

[F87Source]

No your comments are very much appreciated, and I just took action. I removed the 50/50 water meth mixture from the container and added 5L of purified water instead. Now at least I don't need to worry about melting pistons, going blind and stft flatlining post shift, here's a new log:

datazap.me | Asbjoern | BQ v36L - RON95 - WI

datazap.me

Regarding nozzle size, I found this on pro meths website



According to this, I should be using a 450 x .5 = 225cc nozzle fore pure water.

I can't see your log because my phone can't open it for some reason, how does it look?

I also recommend putting a check valve (if you want) then a filter on top of it for the water. This way the water doesn't evaporate (probably really slowly with that small of a hole) or spill out, and you don't suck any dust in if you have a filter. I know this is pretty extreme, and you don't have to do it. But that's just me, I do really extreme things when I mod.

Yup that's the formula, you should probably back down your nozzle size close to the suggested a 225 cc/min. I recommend using two nozzles that add up to 225 rather than one big one, this way you get better atomization.

 

[Asbjorn]

I can't see your log because my phone can't open it for some reason, how does it look

stfts are back in the single digits and post shift flatlining is gone. Looks good to me, save for the boost spikes on shifting which can't be cured.

Only thing that annoys me is that cyl 4 sometimes gets corrected heavily (-7deg) post shift. I happens maybe every third pull or so. The correction starts just before the shift, then goes down the stairs post shift. In daily (slow) driving I also notice cyl4 is often the first one to see any corrections. Re-gapping and swapping plugs and coils has made no difference. Even tried installing brand new plugs. I don't think it was doing this one year ago when looking back through logs.