My DCT conversion to M3 GWS/FLASH

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dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
So I'm getting ready to start my conversion this morning. I'm going to be following the steps below:

1. Pull a full ZB readout from INPA (for roll back purposes)
2. Flash the M3 ZB to my TCU
3. Check the vehicle operation and report back
4. Change my GWS to the M3 version
A. 335is GWS switched with M3 GWS
B. Sport button switched with M3 Shift Logic button
C. Repin the 335is GWS 10pin connector to the M3 GWS 8pin connector
5. Check the vehicle operation and report back
6. Update my module coding
7. Check the vehicle operation and report back
8. Update VO
9. Check the vehicle operation and report back

By the time I'm done this afternoon I should have full shift-logic and a funky shifting 335is DCT. I expect the rev matching to be off until adaptations re-learn. I also expect that the final portion (the M3 rear diff conversion) will fix this funky rev match that I expect.

Wish me luck!
 
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dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
First post. To pull an INPA readout of all module ZB info:

1. Go into INPA and print off the complete UIF page with ZB# and programming info.
2. Close INPA completely and launch WinKFP.
3. I use comfort mode since it does everything that I need it to do.
4. Once you are in comfort mode, Click on Choose ZUSB and make sure that the programming data is loaded in there. If you dont have any data in there you will need to load it before you proceed to the next step.
5. Close the window that is showing the programming data and click on Enter Vin, Enter your complete VIN # of the car you are programming, and click OK, Vin will show up at the top of the program if it accepted it.
6. Click on Enter ZUSB and enter the ZB# from the UIF printoff from INPA, and click ok.
7. It should load the next window and show the module # and something in the right screen. You can leave those as default and click ok.
8. Click on Done, which will bring you to the programming page.
9. Make sure you car is hooked up to a battery charger before you start the programming.
10. Once you have everything good to go click on program and sit back and relax, it will go through and will say " You have 1 time left to program this ECU" click OK and it will flash it.
 
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dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
ADRGen. NameJobStatusZB No.VIN No.DateDescription
00JBBFOKAY9264575E61743431.10.2011Electronics Junction Box
01MRSOKAY9184432YYYYYYY17.06.2010 Multiple Restraint System (MehrfachRuckhaltesystem)
12DME/DDEOKAY8635268E61743408.04.2014 Digital Motor Electronics
17EKPOKAY7276046000000017.06.2010 Electric Fuel Pump (Elektrische Kraftstoffpumpe)
18EGSOKAY7632583E61743431.10.2011 Electronic Transmission Control
20RDCOKAY6795768YYYYYYY15.10.2009 Tire Pressure Control (Reifen Druck Control)
29DSCOKAY6789304YYYYYYY10.06.2010 Dynamic Stablity Control (Dynamische Stabilitats Control)
36TEL/MULFOKAY9231090YYYYYYY15.06.2010Telematic Control Unit
40CASOKAY9262360E61743431.10.2011Car Access System 2 / 3
55ISBPOKAY9229740YYYYYYY15.06.2010Plattform MULF2
56FZDOKAY9225464000000010.01.2008Windshield rain sensor
5EGWSOKAY9213647000000009.06.2010Gear Selection Module
60KOMBIOKAY9242384E61743431.10.2011Instrument Cluster
62MOSTGWOKAY9273191E61743431.10.2011Media Oriented System Transport
63MASK/CCCOKAY9273160E61743431.10.2011Car Infotainment Computer CICR¸ko
67ZBEOKAY9205177VK8081130.09.2010Central control unit
6DFASOKAY9221861YYYYYYY17.06.2010Seat module driver
6EBFSOKAY9221861YYYYYYY18.06.2010Seat module Passenger
72FRMOKAY9263799E61743431.10.2011Footrest module Driver's side
73CIDOKAY9211969YYYYYYY21.05.2010Central info display
78KLIMAOKAY9263304E61743431.10.2011Climate
92VIRTSG92OKAY9180490000000016.06.2010
A0CCCOKAY9273189E61743431.10.2011Hard disk in the CIC
[TBODY] [/TBODY]
 
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dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
OK, GS40 has been flashed to 7845773. In case you were wondering this is the M3 GTS ZB. Not the normal M3 ZB.

We are now in the 5min reboot/cooloff period. Once we wait that period I'll check the function of the car and report back.
 
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dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
OK, at this point you will get a Shift Lever Malfunction indication in both the KOMBI and the CIC display. The GWS (shift lever) is completely dead and doesn't even light up.

Now it is time to switch over to the M3 GWS. Here goes!!!!
 

dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
Time to remove the old!

full?d=1518882428.jpg


Well hello there cousin!

full?lightbox=1&last_edit_date=1518882428.jpg


Enlisting a helper...

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Here is the first interesting piece. The aluminum bolts that hold the GWS down are bolted into steel. The whole reason for aluminum bolts on an aluminum engine is to prevent a regular steel bolt in an aluminum block from causing corrosion. Well, BMW pulled a fuck-up here and they mixed metals. So on mine there was a slight bit of corrosion which made the bolts difficult to remove. Might want to spray them with some penetrating oil first.

full?d=1518882428.jpg


And now you can see the difference between an M3 GWS and the 335is GWS. The M3 is on the left. You will have an additional connector on the 335is GWS, the blue one up top. That's the connector that controls the solenoid that kicks your shift lever back over to the right automatically for you if you press the park button while the shift lever is over in sport mode. This will be un-used when switching to the M3 GWS as everything relating to this function is no longer applicable.

full?d=1518882428.jpg
 
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dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
So far this is the first unforseen "complication". But to be honest this is small potatoes. We already knew we would have to repin the 10pin GWS connector to the 8pin GWS connector and the 2 unused pins are the ones that control the manual actuation of the "park" feature of the DCT that the non ///M cars have. All the ///M cars stay in neutral until the vehicle is turned off and then it goes to park.

What I found was the location of the connector. On the 335is the connector is on the back of the GWS unit, and on the M3 GWS the connector is on the front. That means the wiring harness will need to be slightly rerouted to allow enough slack to plug in the M3 GWS:

335is GWS with connector at the back:

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M3 GWS with the connector up front:

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And the wiring harness has the GWS connector near the CIC control knob out back:

full?d=1518882991.jpg
 

dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
Now for the re-pin of the wiring connector from 10pin to 8pin:

P1 - Red/White 335is (Red/Yellow on M3) - POWER
P2 - White/Brown - DKG TRANSMISSION CONTROL
P3 - Red - PT_CAN HIGH
P4 - Blue/Red - PT_CAN LOW
P5 - Green/Red - CAS
P6 - Brown/Black - GROUND
P7 - Grey/Yellow - DRIVELOGIC/SPORT
P8 - Grey/Blue - DRIVELOGIC/SPORT
(P3 and P4 are a twisted pair, these are your PT_CAN wires and are twisted to help eliminate electrical interference in the bus)

P9 and P10 (unused in the conversion) were your 335is wires to control the PARK button.
 

dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
OK, so the Sport button doesn't use the same connector as the Drivelogic connector. The sport button is a 4pin and the drivelogic is a 6pin with P2 and P6 left empty. The wires are all there. I hunted through an extra M3 chassis wiring harness I had and found "a connector" that would work. It's not the actual one, but it works. So I have to repin this thing too. Drivelogic pinout:

P1 - Brown/Black - GROUND (this was P2 on the 335is Sport button)
P2 - EMPTY
P3 - Grey/Blue - GWS+ (This was P3 on the 335is Sport button)
P4 - Grey/Red - FOOTWELL MODULE (This was P4 on the 335is Sport button)
P5 - Grey/Yellow - GWS- (This was P1 on the 335is Sport button)
P6 - EMPTY
 
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dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
OK, so the wires from the GWS connector (P7 & P8) to the DriveLogic controler (P3 & P4) are too short. In the 335is these wires only had to stretch from the back of the GWS to the Sport button (at the back of the shifter). Now these wires have to go from the front of the GWS which is about 6" further forward. That means these wires need to be extended.

But I did go for a test drive, and at this state there are a LOT of bugs flaws that need to be fixed via NCS Expert.

First is park doesn't work at all. You'll get a transmission failure alert letting you know park isn't functioning and you'll need to use the e-brake.

Second is that when going to "D" mode the KOMBI drops to 0rpm and you lose all indication as to what gear you are in. M mode works flawlessly.

Third is the downshifts are extremely clunky (expected).

The good news??!!

The thing shifts like a freaking beast on upshifts! It makes the shifts on the factory setup with sport engaged feel lethargic by comparison. It is INCREDIBLE!!
 

dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
This is the 335is Sport button connector:

full?d=1518891578.jpg


Here is the M3 Drivelogic switch:

full?lightbox=1&last_edit_date=1518891578.jpg


This is my salvaged connector:

full?d=1518891578.jpg


And after re-pinning:

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aus335iguy

Captain
Nov 18, 2017
1,029
Well done mate!! Came for comprehensive instructions on how to do this... was not disappointed. If you can grab a TRC of the whole car it’d be great... otherwise can I borrow your helper and what’s his hourly rate ?
 

dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
The piece I didn't get a pic of is the park lock wiring. I'll see if I can photoshop something together for an explanation there. I double checked the wiring diagrams and the extra 2 pin blue connector actually needs to be connected to the 2 unused GWS pins. Simple simple, but I'll try and get some images for you guys.
 

aus335iguy

Captain
Nov 18, 2017
1,029
One test if you can? Deactivate DSC and see if you can get the 6th level of drive logic. Also Glenn Wyatt said that the shifts were as hard as what they were in sport mode. I wonder why yours seem much harder?
 
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dyezak

Major
May 4, 2017
1,768
Plano TX
One test if you can? Deactivate DSC and see if you can get the 6th level of drive logic. Also Glenn Wyatt said that the shifts were as hard as what they were in sport mode. I wonder why yours seem much harder?
I haven't done any coding yet and without it you don't get any drive logic access.

But I can tell you this...early WOT shift from 2nd to 3rd at 3500rpm lit my tires up. Never had that happen before.
 

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