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N54 Pre-Clutch Install Question

Discussion in 'General Automotive Discussion' started by Sixbanger, Feb 12, 2018.

  1. Sixbanger

    Sixbanger Specialist

    Messages:
    68
    Ride:
    08 135I
    So, after a long day yesterday I managed to pull out the tranny on my own. Big achievement for me, but I’m being told to tow the car to a shop. Right now, I’m awaiting a throw out bearing in the mail. I’ll be installing the Mfactory double clutch.
    Tomorrow I plan on cleaning the bellhousing and installing the fork and bearing. A friend of mine is a Bmw master mechanic. He’s been telling me to tow the car to his shop, so he can install correctly It correctly to prevent having to pull out the tranny again. I’m no mechanic by any means, but I’ve learned a lot and saved tons of money on labor by doing alot of stuff on my own.
    My question to you all is, what should I do? Tranny is out and drive shaft is out as well. I’m not going to be able to tow it to him like that. What could go wrong by not me installing it correctly? I’ve researched the install thoroughly and I’m confident I’ll be just fine putting it all back together. I mean, I did pull it out and that was the bitch
     
  2. Steven@ClarkPerformanceFab

    [email protected] Sergeant Vendor

    Messages:
    364
    Location:
    Minot, ND
    Ride:
    2010 135i
    The MFactory twin disc is hard to mess up if you know what you’re doing. That clutch tool is the only billet one as far as I know and it works great. Its a good idea to replace that plastic pivot with a brass one while you’re in there. And replace the rear main seal. But torque the bolts evenly to manufacturers specs in a star pattern. I emailed MFactory last year and they said the flywheel is OEM BMW torque. Make sure the pressure plate has even shims and use thread locker on the nuts when your torque them. The alignment tool should be able to slide right out when everything is torqued. If its snug and you have to pull on it to get it out the splines aren’t alligned and you’ll never get the trans in. Delete the clutch delay valve as well when you put the trans back in by just plugging the silicone clutch line directly into the throw out slave cylinder. Make sure you have a bottle or two of break cleaner and some shop towels and clean everything thoroughly before install and between each step.
     
  3. Steven@ClarkPerformanceFab

    [email protected] Sergeant Vendor

    Messages:
    364
    Location:
    Minot, ND
    Ride:
    2010 135i
    Per MFactory engineering department.
    41 nm is the recommended torque for the pressure plate nuts
     
  4. Steven@ClarkPerformanceFab

    [email protected] Sergeant Vendor

    Messages:
    364
    Location:
    Minot, ND
    Ride:
    2010 135i
  5. Sixbanger

    Sixbanger Specialist

    Messages:
    68
    Ride:
    08 135I
    Thanks but after reading your post (600 miles then it failed) I've decided to start return process and get a spec 3 with smfaw. Plus, I've been told that the double clutch is very noisie and is not managable dor daily driving.
     
  6. Steven@ClarkPerformanceFab

    [email protected] Sergeant Vendor

    Messages:
    364
    Location:
    Minot, ND
    Ride:
    2010 135i
    I would agree about the daily driving. Its not very friendly in 1st gear. But as for the failure, it has since been resolved and the new revision doesn’t seem to have the same issues. That was also only on the sprung hub. I have their unsprung hub clutch now as a replacement and I beat the living shit out of it with no issues. It is a race clutch though and I absolutely hate driving with it in town. The Spec (Motiv) twin disc is a better clutch in my opinion because you dont have to pull the trans to remove shims as the friction plates wear like you have to with the MFactory.
     
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