Ad: Product Release - VTT Billet Vacuum Relief Valve

syn909

Private
Jun 27, 2018
33
@martymil If you look at the photo of my vacuum gauge it says the inside lower reading is "in Hg vac" but am I correct that the marking is actually .5 not 5.0?

I ran it first with one shim and got a crazy loud resonance sound from the engine.

Right now it looks to be in spec at .6 or 14" just wanted to confirm with you guys on here with my reading attached
IMG_20200318_155921.jpg
 

martymil

Colonel
yes thats 5.5 inhg the outside is 14cmhg so within spec what vtt recommends.

Stock is 17 mbar or 0.5 inhg or 1.2 cmhg

I personally can't run anymore than 2 inhg without one of the seals whistling like crazy

I see it this way as long as you run anything higher than stock without seals whistling you will be ok.
 
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Reactions: Asbjorn

syn909

Private
Jun 27, 2018
33
If your running the billet vacuum relief valve off the valve cover PCV high side with a Y block adapter shouldn't we also have a check valve inline on the vacuum relief so it does not come out that way and goes to the catch can
 

JonEQuest

Lurker
Nov 7, 2018
12
I am a little confused at all the ways of doing this. When I rebuilt my N54 last year I blocked the 6 ports in the head with Alan screws. I also added an oil catch can before the rear turbo inlet. I used 2.5' hoses back and forth and it sits right by the left strut tower. I am getting some oil trapped in the can (which is good), BUT I am also getting plenty of oil going past the catch can and going through my rear turbo. What should I do next? It seems like I may need to add the low side catch can right? Is it possible I have a bad PCV valve somewhere as well? I am replacing my turbos now and want to resolve this before I gunk up a new turbo with oil.
 

martymil

Colonel
I finally resolved why my motor wasnt holding the 6"hg at idle, it was my super expensive flapper valve on the high side.

Replaced it with the vtt one way valve and no issues since, got to say save your self the headache and get these as they work brilliantly
and are quite cheap compared to the rest.
 

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
8,904
AZ
@doublespaces Im trying to figure out what AN connections you have on the high and low side there? Really dig the fitment, on the high side it looks like 10an female couple, to a an10 male to female going to a 10an 90 degree? Is the same on the high side?
Want to buy it? :)

I deleted the PCV stuff so I don't actually need it anymore. Here is the info:
 

syn909

Private
Jun 27, 2018
33
Want to buy it? :)

I deleted the PCV stuff so I don't actually need it anymore. Here is the info:
@doublespaces actually, I almost bought that double o-ring fitting vadar fitting as I am getting a vacuum leak from the standard c-clip high side fitting. So far the VTT one was a total fail, would not stay on and then the ACF fitting leaks with the vacuum relief. You went with the aluminum valve cover? Just DM me we can sort it out
 

STE92

Corporal
Mar 3, 2017
163
I currently have vtt dual catch can
Vtt valve cover w/vaccum relief valve (no shims)
Low side>to can>check valve>IM
Highy side> check valve>catch can> vtA

My low side is filling up way too quick... have to empty weekly. Has anybody had this issue? Any ideas why it migh this be. Motor is built slightly higher compression.
 

STE92

Corporal
Mar 3, 2017
163
That's normal dude, it means its working correctly.

the only other way is to replace the low side catch can with an oil/air separator with a built in heater.

Most are bulky and don't fit in our engine bays, I made one for myself but it was cost prohibitive for most.
Thanks...also realized weather got cold as hell past week this will have a bigger affect it since its a built engine.
 
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