Wire Tuck
- Thread starter screaminfast
- Start date
So here's what I've been working on for this project....
Started out by getting an extra harness from a local friend because one of my injector connectors was frayed:
Took the harness apart and separated out the injector part from the coils and sensors, cutting all of the split loom and cloth tape:
Picked up some 16GA OFC wire and some 18GA TXL for rewiring or extending....
Also grabbed a full Deutsch connector kit:
Got some real good PVC/OFC 1/0 gauge from batterycablesusa to re-run the power from the B+ lug to the starter and alternator. Sleeved it in PET and put new soldered lugs on the ends.
That's where I'm at right now. I'm currently working on the wiring diagrams in AutoCAD electrical. I got 10 new EV1 connectors for sensors, the pins for them, and new pins for the Metripack connectors for the PR coil packs.
Started out by getting an extra harness from a local friend because one of my injector connectors was frayed:
Took the harness apart and separated out the injector part from the coils and sensors, cutting all of the split loom and cloth tape:
Picked up some 16GA OFC wire and some 18GA TXL for rewiring or extending....
Also grabbed a full Deutsch connector kit:
Got some real good PVC/OFC 1/0 gauge from batterycablesusa to re-run the power from the B+ lug to the starter and alternator. Sleeved it in PET and put new soldered lugs on the ends.
That's where I'm at right now. I'm currently working on the wiring diagrams in AutoCAD electrical. I got 10 new EV1 connectors for sensors, the pins for them, and new pins for the Metripack connectors for the PR coil packs.
Diagramming them because newtis is gone and some of them I'll be remaking completely. Also, I'm teaching myself AutoCAD electrical right now
I'll remake the coil pack wires with 16ga all the way to the coil-pack, probably extend the injector ones, and replace some of the EV1 style sensor connectors. By remaking the coil pack harness, I can move the grounds off the valve cover too so I can eliminate the grounding posts.
I could have bought the hydraulic crimper tool, but it seemed like they recommended their solder slug pellets for battery cables so I gave it a try. If it fails, I'll go back to standard crimping.
I could have bought the hydraulic crimper tool, but it seemed like they recommended their solder slug pellets for battery cables so I gave it a try. If it fails, I'll go back to standard crimping.
Interesting they promote them. The reason solder is bad, other than it can't compare to a proper crimp in a pull test, is that it is bad to use in any situation where there is vibration. The boat/yachting/aviation word solder is not allowed and only crimps are used.
This is what I used when I rewired my boat. Crimped the 1/0 well: https://www.amazon.com/Sanuke-Crimp...t=&hvlocphy=9001857&hvtargid=pla-814017401017
Or at least mine is very similar. No reason to buy a hydraulic crimper unless you have a ton of cables to make.
I assume the DME is going in the glove box?
Yeah planning to put it either in the glove box or a custom enclosure near there. Hopefully the solder holds up, but let me do a little more research on them.
But where will your gloves go?!?!
Honestly you should probably be fine unless there is a lot of vibration...that being said conductors and crimps are cheap AF. The correct die to crimp only a bit more.
The issue with Solder is it wicks up the internal conductors of the wire inside the pvc/etc coating which you can't see. You have no idea how much or little wicked up. Vibration breaks the soldered conductors which creates a hot spot. You try and draw the same amount of amperage through a now 'smaller' wire if that makes sense. The hotter it gets it can melt the solder etc. The soldered joint will mechanically and electrically fail eventually under vibration. Even with no wicking vibration will still be an issue even with a good stress relief on the conductor.
I have a nice infographic from work I will try and find to share.
You can google crimps vs. solder online or look up aviation and boating standards if you care to. Lots of information online, unfortunately a fair amount of people try and argue solder is fine.
I used to work in a wire house and know more about stupid connectors and crimps than most would ever want to know. Granted it was a life ago it feels like now. Which is only the reason I harp on this.
I like this everytime you bring it up. Taught me something I didn't know and it is worth repeating to those that will listen.
Do you think I could heat the connector back up to liquify the solder and then crimp it? Or will that just fuck up all the heat shrink and PET sleeve?
We Just finished a complete engine harness overhaul on our shop car. Just to warn anyone thinking about doing this, it is very time consuming, and make sure you plan, plan, then plan again before you start doing any changes. trust me it will make your life easier!
It's incredible just how much those wires can be cleaned up. I need to get motivated and do this as well. I despise the factory wiring mess.
Since when do you offer an exhaust manifold/turbo kit? Or did I miss something? Any more pics?
Unfortunately no, I think it would only make it worse.
The only 'fix' would be a fresh new cable or cut and shorten the cable and then crimp on lugs making sure all solder is gone but they may not be an option. I wouldn't stress about it. But 2 crimp lugs are cheap as is the cable and crimper.
We don't officially, we have made a few custom ones for customers, and this one for our car ;-)
Last edited by a moderator:
Similar threads
