Manual Operation of Radiator Fan

RSL

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Aug 11, 2017
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He cant Run ac Cause water dripping at track Is no no. I would think a pwm controller will not play nice with dme.
No A/C would be best, but puddles before the water box is more an annoyance than a concern. Staging lanes aren't exactly sterile.

DME would probably be ticked and might need/want to run one on a discrete circuit and disconnect the DME circuit when using it. Not sure which would be the least offensive to the DME.

My PSP 750 sits right in front of the fan and the shroud seals around it as good as it seals around the radiator
It works fine like that obviously, but by sealed, I mean air tight, no different than any other boost or vacuum tract. It's an efficiency thing and wouldn't help much in this case anyway, but ideally want a sealed tract from grill to IC core to fan shroud, so ambient air only can pass through the IC core and all of it has to pass through the core, whether it's being pushed through (driving) or pulled through (fan at a stop/slow speed).

The IC core is so thick, the fan will pull most of the air through the radiator at all times (less resistance) no matter what's done. Fan will be quicker to cool IC than no fan, but not much. Fan pulling is nowhere near as effective on it as driving/pushing air through.
 

Coupes66

Corporal
Dec 26, 2017
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BMW 335i N54
Thanks for your comments. It is obvious that there is no simple solution available as yet. With regards the comments on running the A/C, I never run the A/C for 2 reasons. Firstly, as mentioned by others, any water dripping on the start line will have you prevented from running and secondly, it takes a little engine power to run and I want every bit I can get to go down the strip. I believe my 335i would be the same as all others in respect to the fan cowling covering the intercooler. So when the fan is not going there is a slight restriction to air passing through the intercooler and radiator. While the car is stopped, there is no air passing through the intercooler. If the fan was running and pulling cold air from outside, I believe it would make an appreciable difference in the IAT. As it appears no one has been able to try it, the results are unknown.
 
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typedRew

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Feb 25, 2019
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No A/C would be best, but puddles before the water box is more an annoyance than a concern. Staging lanes aren't exactly sterile.

Agreed, but if the AC is ran at all in the staging lanes, youll be dripping water on the line. And likely down the whole track, it doesn't quit the condensation as soon as you press the button so even if just used in the staging lanes is a bad option.

Even if you dont get caught, I wouldnt want to be that guy responsible seeing the 8 second mustang behind me go into a wall because he hit some water at the 330ft
 
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NoGuru

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Jan 9, 2018
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This is a little off subject but has anyone routed the AC to the IC like the Hellcat does in an aftermarket application?
If you could route the condensation to the top of the exhaust, instant evap.
 

typedRew

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Feb 25, 2019
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2009 335i xDrive
This is a little off subject but has anyone routed the AC to the IC like the Hellcat does in an aftermarket application?
If you could route the condensation to the top of the exhaust, instant evap.

We would need to convert to an air to water for that to work

But it is a great option
 

Torgus

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Nov 6, 2016
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Personally I don't think the fans drawing in air will make much of a difference at all in your 1/4 times unless you are pulling timing off the line due to the high air temp. If you are not pulling timing what does it really matter? The second you start moving the IC starts doing it's job cooling down your intake charge. I also agree unless it is air tight how much would really would be pulled through say a 7.5'' thick IC with a dense 'race' fin pack? Path of least resistance and all...sorry to be such a debbie downer.

If the goal is just to cool the IC effectively there are products on the market that do just that. They make those c02 intercooler sprayers for instance.

You could put a single dry nitrous nozzle in the intake piping and it will help cool the air charge, and the car will also pick up some HP and torque numbers. Run something like a 50 shot. Should help you times too.

Finally you could just run a small water/meth nozzle and that will cool your intake charge and add octane to prevent knock. Technically you don't even have to run meth. Just distilled water or windshield washer fluid. Cheap refills.
 
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RSL

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Aug 11, 2017
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Agree, probably shed more IAT by 60' than 30 minutes of 100% fan standing still/creeping.

Thanks for your comments. It is obvious that there is no simple solution available as yet. With regards the comments on running the A/C, I never run the A/C for 2 reasons. Firstly, as mentioned by others, any water dripping on the start line will have you prevented from running and secondly, it takes a little engine power to run and I want every bit I can get to go down the strip. I believe my 335i would be the same as all others in respect to the fan cowling covering the intercooler. So when the fan is not going there is a slight restriction to air passing through the intercooler and radiator. While the car is stopped, there is no air passing through the intercooler. If the fan was running and pulling cold air from outside, I believe it would make an appreciable difference in the IAT. As it appears no one has been able to try it, the results are unknown.
I'm sure plenty have tried it, including myself, and it's nowhere near the help you think. JB4 has been able to do it for years, makes a lot of noise with no appreciable difference in IATs.

Anyone can test any time they're driving, doesn't need to be at the track. Get car/IC up to temp, park for 5-10 minutes with A/C off, turn A/C (fan) on and see what IATs do and how long it takes. Prepare to be unimpressed. More DC doesn't translate to anything drastically better for IAT.

If you're running DCI, you'd probably lower IATs more by changing to sealed intake than running the fan, but plenty of other options mentioned to try to keep IC cooler.
 
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