Massive Boost Leak?

Jan 28, 2018
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#1
Actually I am pretty sure already, but maybe somebody can confirm so that I don't waste time renting a lift tomorrow. Already wasted too much time to remove the airbox and charge pipe just to confirm it's not leaking...

It seems there is no air being sucked into the airbox at idle. Even if I close the intake of the airbox completely (with removed air duct) the car idles on happily.

Air must be getting in somewhere and as the car and as car is not making any boost either it is quite likely somewhere after the turbocharger.

Guess no point in attempting to pressurize the intake to look for boost leaks as there is obviously a boost leak or am I missing something?

Just out of curiosity: Anybody seen a blown stock charge pipe first hand?
 
Jan 3, 2018
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#2
Yes, they break often even on stock boost and customers often think they blew the motor when it goes. It typically breaks right off the throttle body. Normally you see plastic and the c-clip down on the under tray.
 
Jan 28, 2018
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#3
Problem was the connection between the turbo outlet and the intercooler.
upload_2018-11-6_22-49-18.png

It was a pain to make the connection when installing the FMIC beginning of this year and I assume the C-Clip was not properly seated. It was a pain to re-connect it and I nearly made it from workshop to work without popping it out again. :triumph:

Back on the lift after work I removed the gasket and it seems everything is seated very solid.
Hope it does not pops out again and the boost leak caused by the missing gasket is not too bad...

Considering the time waster I reret that I did not spend the money to get a proper FMIC...
 

RSL

Sergeant
Aug 11, 2017
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#4
The o-ring needs to be in there or it will leak. Make sure it's on the connector and that the inside of the IC inlet is clean. Lube the outside of the o-ring before installing the hose to make life easier. Push the connector in as far as you can by hand and hold it there, drop the clip into the slots and push it all the way down. Use big channel locks or similar to grab the metal lip of the hose connector and the lip of the IC connector and squeeze them together until the clip clicks in. Repeat for the other side to seat that clip leg.

The aluminum lip on the hose end can bend easily. Make you're pushing the hose in by hand as hard as you can just use channel locks for the last bit of leverage needed to seat the clip.
 

RSL

Sergeant
Aug 11, 2017
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#5
I also see the stock clamp has been replaced on the outlet pipe, so might make it even easier to disconnect that side to completely free the hose connector, get it clipped into the IC side first and then reconnect to the outlet pipe.
 
Jan 28, 2018
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#6
The o-ring needs to be in there or it will leak.
Sure, some boost will leak for sure. Will check logs to see if it makes a significant difference, if it doesn't I will probably not touch it before getting a new IC.


Lube the outside of the o-ring before installing the hose to make life easier.
It was pretty well lubed by oil... don't have a catch can.

Use big channel locks or similar to grab the metal lip of the hose connector and the lip of the IC connector and squeeze them together until the clip clicks in.
Seems I should have listened to my wife and let a mechanic do the job...
On tge other hand I am not sure if it us going to wirk: Cold side clicked in easily, but hot side is super-tight an barely impossible to push in (chinesium quality) .

I also see the stock clamp has been replaced on the outlet pipe, so might make it even easier to disconnect that side to completely free the hose connector, get it clipped into the IC side first and then reconnect to the outlet pipe.
Did that all three times I made that connection. It's so much fun to get that hose back in place when it's clipped into the IC. Took me 45 minutes and a lot of loud cursing.
 

RSL

Sergeant
Aug 11, 2017
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#7
If there's a physical problem where it won't connect easily, that would definitely be a PITA. It can be hard enough to seat those when everything fits perfectly.

Leak with it connected and no o-ring certainly won't be anywhere near as bad as with the connector hanging off completely, but turbos will still be spinning faster trying to make target and/or will toss 30FF. Might not purposely lay into it often until it's properly connected to this IC or a new one.
 
Jan 28, 2018
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#8
Guess I will do a proper log and the check WGDC. This will at least show if significantly more WGDC is required to reach specific boost level. If thats within 10% of what I have seen before removing the gasket I will just send it.

My butt dyno tells me it will be fine.

Before you get too exited about upcoming part out: I am located in Germany ;-)
 

RSL

Sergeant
Aug 11, 2017
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#9
lol Not expecting a part out, but will be curious just how bad it is like that.
 
Jan 28, 2018
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#10
Flashing an not scaled map after a scaled map will require a long write, or?

Hope that will enable the quick write without actually scaling the map:
upload_2018-11-8_20-56-9.png
 

RSL

Sergeant
Aug 11, 2017
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#11
Yes it will require a long flash.
 

RSL

Sergeant
Aug 11, 2017
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#12
I see, keep the 3 col and just scale down would keep it quick write, but that 43.7psi will give you grief. You want to lower voltage instead of raising pressure.

Any time changing between 2 col and 3 col is what requires long writes.
 
Aug 11, 2017
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#14
Yeah, keep the pressure in the last column where it was and adjust the voltage to change the scale instead.
 
Jan 28, 2018
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#17
The missing o-ring does have some quite visible impact:

Before / After log with (nearly) same tune below.
Basically I am loosing 2 PSI with same or higher WGDC.

1542399474577.png


1542399542366.png



Comparison of same log with leak to an older tune that made similar boost.
WGDC was significantly lower.

1542399751321.png


1542399841278.png
 

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