What company for a built motor?
- Thread starter JSans
- Start date
I'm not. Why you think Motiv doesn't sleeve their block? It's not necessary at the current power we're at. They put the insert in to support the top of the cylinder so it doesn't go out of shape. The exact same thing Honda Guys have been doing for ages.
Honda guys pound the stiffeners in largely because they're cheap and the motors are cheap to replace. Motiv uses an insert to support the top of the cylinder, but with a proper sleeve, the top of the cylinder will be stronger and likely not need an insert at the same power levels.
If your wall to wall thickness around the cylinder and between cylinders is not the same, and the OEM casting and sleeve inserts are not the same materials, you cannot blindly say that at xxxhp per cylinder on one car means it is ok on another car. If you can't figure that out, you're either not fully comprehending the comment, or you just don't understand it.
You’re not catching what I’m saying. Motiv is not sleeving their blocks because the stock sleeves are strong enough that you don’t need to replace them at the current power they’re at (1000whp). They are doing what most
Honda guys esp K series are doing which is putting a insert at the top of block to prevent stock sleeves from rocking. CSS has been doing this for ages with the Honda open deck motors. A closed deck insert is cheaper then resleeving the block however there comes a point where you must resleeve the block because a stock sleeve won’t hold 250hp+ per cylinder for very long. If you’re one of those guys that want 1200whp+ then it’s a good idea the resleeve block but for most people on this platform forged rods, piston, and closed deck insert is all they really need. Like I said earlier 99.9% of n54 owners don’t need to sleeve their block a closed deck insert is more then enough. They won’t pushing enough power to actually crack a stock sleeve.
I agree with most of that. However, people have already distorted the cylinders on this platform. Sleeves in place of a closed deck is probably the safer/better way to go.
A
Larger ARP head studs all around with inserts, ARP main studs, etc....
Again - why not both? If investing $X into a build, why not make it absolutely bulletproof?
Larger ARP head studs all around with inserts, ARP main studs, etc....
Guys not sure about the hate on VAC , yes it might be expensive to have them assemble an engine , but anybody could do that. I'm curious to hear actual experiences / stories about why you're all trash talking them. Look at this closed deck insert, most others are not as well designed (IMO) you could at least daily drive with their closed deck and not have to worry that much about cooling issues
VAC tried selling someone on here parts that don't even exist on the N54. Also, Motiv makes a better designed insert that directly mates to the cooling passages in the head so that it doesn't interfere with cooling ability at all.
More like this. With the 4 ends upgraded to the M11 ARP stud with NS300 inserts.
And ARP studs for the main...
The VAC pic is of my block. I daily drive it (when it's not in shop for upgrades) and it's holding up fine. Dyno'd at 852WHP. Cooling passages are not blocked at all.
Did you get just the block from VAC or did they build your engine? How long was the wait and can you share general pricing?
@Erichale77
When you posted pics earlier , or on your build thread , I said hmmm. Sure looks like a familiar picture , lol. Good to know! I only plan to crank it up to 700 for now , but I’m getting the whole block built.
When you posted pics earlier , or on your build thread , I said hmmm. Sure looks like a familiar picture , lol. Good to know! I only plan to crank it up to 700 for now , but I’m getting the whole block built.
It was my engine that they rebuilt. It took a very long time due to the fact my block was the first to get closed by them and they took my block to car shows like SEMA to show it off but I had EVERYTHING done. It cost me around 15 grand
That was me. Tried selling me bedplate studs. They don't exist.
VAC also managed to send me wrong size bearings delaying my build for weeks. They also managed to build an engine for another member on here that blew up in 2 miles.
Mixing up part sizes isn't the end of the world but I can understand the frustration that comes with that. The stamp on the block is a pain in the ass to read correctly. (atleast mine was) Can you give more details on the engine with 2 miles that blew up? Like what exactly failed, Was it a minor issue that was corrected easily or totally fucked. What did VAC do about it?
https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/raise-your-hand-if-youve-blown-up-an-n54.2157/#post-21844
Not sure but it was @Erichale77 maybe he can elaborate?
Not sure but it was @Erichale77 maybe he can elaborate?
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