Just get the original vvt ones if you are based in the US. They have confirmed it is already the high temp type.If I recall you swapped in Samco 500°F silicone when you replaced the first? If you know which hose (p/n, URL) it might be handy for others to know.
Yeah and the problem is the GC series. They still connect with silicone hose clamps even the rest of the charge pipe is aluminum. See the difference below.If you haven't figured it out by now, you absolutely need aluminum charge pipes/outlets.
It is funny you asked. I recently went to a circuit in China were they allow you to drive with the top down. There I did try running with the A/C off and heater on max temp medium fan. I of course also ran the two additional oil pumps/coolers. Now unfortunately I did not log that day, but I am pretty sure the highest oil temp I saw was 135C. I went through my video material, and that seems to be right. This is an improvement, because it was a very hot day, and I would normally see 140C after similar hot lapping. The car also seemed to hold up a little better than my friends M135i with stock cooling running pure stg 2 at around 14 psi. He was, very understandably, running with the AC on (until it was reduced by the DME due to high temps). He actually told me he got a warning in his dash.Regarding your temps, is there any reason you must have the AC on? Is it personal preference to leave it on? Im pretty sure no full on race car has it (most drivers wear a cool suit or sweat it out), and that may be contributing un-needed strain on the cooling system.
So a quick long-term review of the aboveQuick update on the (allegedly) finished build
#1 Since my differential bearings went bust during the grand track tour of China, I bought a used diff from a scrap yard, and is currently having the old Quaife core reinstalled in the new diff.
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#2 At the same time we are installing bimmerworld solid subframe mounts
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I am hoping this will lead to better stability and predictability of the rear end when driving at the limit.
#3 We are also installing bearings instead of the M rubber compounds on the front tension struts.
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What came out
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Hopefully this will also lead to better stability and predictability when driving at the limit. We went with this sealed unit instead of the nicer looking AKGs. BimmerWorld Part #: 100.31.582.0006
I will report back if NVH is not tolerable with these mods.
#4 finally I am swapping in the n20 tmap sensor to get rid of an occasional 2ABC code. Apparently it might also help us increase and sustain boost throughout the RPM range.
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The OEM PPK aux radiator is the same core as the oem oil cooler. I have this installed as a transmission cooler and the core is incapable of stopping the temps from rising while parked and while on the road, temps don't even out until over 200 F. I do not recommend using the OEM core, the ducts are meh also. The OEM parts are actually flimsy and feel like an after thought not to mention trying to source them is difficult.- Figure out how to improve coolant cooling. Honestly I struggle a bit on this one. Thinking about contacting CSF. Obviously there's also the PPK kit, just not sure if it is enough. Anyone have data from the 1 M coupe?
Thanks for the suggestions. I wanted the larger DCT cooler due to inspiration from the MS division. The M4 GT4 uses exactly the same coolers as a stock M4 except for one - the upgraded DCT cooler, which was taken from an M6. I guess the delayed heating of the DCT oil only really shows on track.The OEM PPK aux radiator is the same core as the oem oil cooler. I have this installed as a transmission cooler and the core is incapable of stopping the temps from rising while parked and while on the road, temps don't even out until over 200 F. I do not recommend using the OEM core, the ducts are meh also. The OEM parts are actually flimsy and feel like an after thought not to mention trying to source them is difficult.
If you want to increase your engine cooling and you weren't afraid to rip things apart and try again perhaps you could ensure you're using the Manual CSF which does not have the transmission heat exchanger circuit and also move the transmission cooler away from your radiator and put the engine oil there since those temperatures are linked.
Nice work!Thanks for the suggestions. I wanted the larger DCT cooler due to inspiration from the MS division. The M4 GT4 uses exactly the same coolers as a stock M4 except for one - the upgraded DCT cooler, which was taken from an M6. I guess the delayed heating of the DCT oil only really shows on track.
Now what you didn't know is that I already had an additional radiator custom made during December. It finally went in yesterday just in time for my response to your post haha. Turns out having a radiator made to spec costs next to nothing in China.
I also upgraded engine oil cooling and brake cooling just because why not. Let me go though each of the upgrades below:
New additional coolant radiator
*) Almost same total cooling area as the stock radiator. One pass radiator without DCT heater core. Connected in parallel to the CSF unit.
*) Keeps the DCT heating function intact because the CSF AT radiator is untouched. DCT track cooling is still handled by the separate oil cooler and pump.
*) Additional radiator sits in front of the condenser unit, and behind the DCT cooler with large air gaps on all sides, allowing fresh air to pass around it. Time will tell if this location works, or if the unit has to be placed somewhere else for the AC to work on hot summer days.
*) R+ racing coolant replaced with OEM coolant for increased longevity and lower cost.
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Upgraded stock location oil cooler
*) Around twice the area of the stock unit. Around twice the depth as well.
*) Stock unit completely removed. New unit Installed directly to stock thermostat housing using adapter.
*) Semi-dry oil sump and associated oil cooler untouched.
*) Considering to replace the 95C thermostat with the OEM version to keep oil temps above 100C/210F on high ways.
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Air scoops for brake cooling ducts
*) Intake raised to FMIC height to decease risk of scraping and increase longevity.
*) Air scoops added to increase intake area (the scoops were taken from a W212 Mercedes air intake)
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With the OEM bumper in place, everything still looks completely stock. Now all I need is some hot weather so I can start logging.
BTW @doublespaces since the site upgrade, the tables I made in post number 1 don't work anymore. Is there a way to fix this?
Absolutely no problem!Nice work!
Regarding the tables, it was known they would break before the update. Instead of installing third party software I am waiting for a first party solution coming soon. Don't edit the tables as they will begin working on their own in the coming months. I may need to do a text replace so it's important the bb code formatting doesn't get changed. If that time frame is unsuitable I can attempt to recover it back to a test site and hand the data back to you in a readable format so you can repost it in a different way. But I am guessing it will be resolved in a month or two.
When I was running the stock setup (csf radiator) I tried everything. Water wetter + 20% coolant (almost no color). Expensive Racing R+ coolant. Stock 50%. No difference. The main problem is power to radiator and the WOT% vs average speed that that car sees during hotlapping on track.Out of curiosity, what ratio of water to coolant are you running? You may be able to improve your thermal performance by using less "coolant" and more water.