You need 61130005199 x2, and you need to buy servotronic plug if you dont have it.
Servotronic on a 335i
- Thread starter doublespaces
- Start date
I know it isn't really necessary to change the pump but I like to experiment. I got a couple of ZF pumps for $40-50 each, one from a active steering e90, one from a 5 series. I thought that worst case I can just sell them on ebay again which I might have to do.
Just incase anyone else gets experimental and curious the active steering PS pump would take some work to adapt using another pump with a standard valve which is beyond most of us.
I had a plan to take the active steering valve off from it and put a traditional valve in it......
There are 3 problems...
1) This is probably the hardest to deal with. The standard housing has a 0.060" step in it for a sealing oring (shown in the first pic)... This can't be skipped because it would also set the tolerance on the internal valve where the steel connector for the banjo goes in. This would have to be machined accurately for the pressure valve and also as an oring sealing surface. I might be able to get my machine shop to do it but I am not sure it is worth it...
5 series valve donor pump...
2) There is a bypass into the active steering valve that would have to be plugged (ok so not the end of the world, press in a plug, set screw or weld shut, etc.)
3) The bypass is internal on the normal pumps so now that it is plugged you have to drill a bypass hole into that same galley into the pump. Ok that is also doable if you can get the metal shavings out after drilling. (see it at 12:30 inside of the first pic just above the threads)
I had also bought a 525 power steering pump that I thought had basically the same housing but...
1) The nose is shorter on it... It is actually a shorter unit.
2) The triangular mounting for the pulley has a different bolt spacing than the e90 one.
Due to 1 and 2 it isn't even possible to swap the shaft to may a hybrid unit. These housings also seem like they might be pretty hard to split open...
The 335d and M3 pumps also aren't of much use because they are mirror images and have the PS pressure connection on the wrong side.
So unless it is easy to defeat the active steering valve and after doing so the high pressure line is swapped it isn't really going to help us.
Does the active steering go full pressure when off or on?
If it is just off then it might work with a power steering line swap, the main valve appeared to be the same as the 135bar 5 series pump.
If others are interested I can see if the machine shop (or my friend with a mill) can do the mods at a decent price. If he could then getting a standard style valve is easy, they come on the 5 series, landrovers, etc and those pumps can be purchased for $30 used to steal the valve from.
(valve from the active pump is on the right)
-Rich
Last edited:
Hey @doublespaces I can't find a part number for this male connector that would go into that white socket of the 61129115546
What did you order?
I think it's this:
BMW Cable Set Servotronic - Genuine BMW 61129115546
BMW Cable Set Servotronic - Genuine BMW 61129115546
www.fcpeuro.com
Ah ok, because it loops back!!
:Ok, so to summarize all the parts, one needs:
- servotronic cable 61129115546
- 2x pins 12527522388
- or 2x pigtails 61130005199
Rack:
- 4x banjo crush washers 07119906464 (14x20)
Additionally if one wants to use the holder:
- 61136919422
- 07119904182
- 07129904150
- second 61129115546
And the JBBFE 3 for those who dont have it:
Servotronic on a 335i
Yeah I re-read post #64 in that thread and I think you might be right... there does seem to be physical variations to the JBBF units between say an "L1" and an "M" variant. I was skeptical since all JBBF 3 have the same part number... and it shows interchangeable between 135i and 1M. However...
www.spoolstreet.com
Last edited:
Ah ok, because it loops back!!
View attachment 53026
Ok, so to summarize all the parts, one needs:
- servotronic cable 61129115546
- 2x pins 12527522388
- or 2x pigtails 61130005199
Additionally if one wants to use the holder:
- 61136919422
- 07119904182
- 07129904150
- second 61129115546
And the JBBFE 3 for those who dont have it:
Servotronic on a 335i
Yeah I re-read post #64 in that thread and I think you might be right... there does seem to be physical variations to the JBBF units between say an "L1" and an "M" variant. I was skeptical since all JBBF 3 have the same part number... and it shows interchangeable between 135i and 1M. However...
Yeap, Let us know how it goes!
So far I made a mistake and scratched/scored the smooth part of the new rack shaft using pipe wrench. Thanks to this stupid advise:
I smoothed out the sharp notches a bit, but it doesn't look great.
I think I will install it anyway
Attachments
Last edited:
It worked, feels great after alignment.
The scratched part doesn't seem to cause any leak (checked with boot opened and fully turned left with pump working).
Another thing - I dind't have right banjo washers - I reused the old ones but there is no leak. So lucky!!
It was tricky to pull out the column shaft.
Tip: it's good to adjust the steering wheel position to be close to the driver and lock it (otherwise it will be falling down on the spline and tricking you into thinking it doesn't want to come out).
Don't rotate steering after removing the column shaft, because you may lose where is the center. I had it rotated when I removed it and didn't know where is the center. I looked at the steering angle value on CANbus to find 0deg. And don't try to rotate it too far - the clockspring will break.
Another tip - don't unscrew the rubber hose mounts. They will break as in the photo. Instead, undo the metal bracket.
Another thing:
I know why centering tab doesn't work for anyone. The M3 rack is shorter by 5.8mm. This is what screws up the alignment. (If you want to roughly fix the alignment after installation, rotate the outer tie rods two turns - this should move them out by about 3mm.)
I have a way to keep the centering tab though. Pop M3's rack centering tab as described here.
Align the old rack's tab with lower casting seam (not the top casting that is different from rack to rack).
Measure how much the shaft is sticking out on the left and right (about 80 and 74mm - I don't remember exactly). Subtract 2.9mm from both of your numbers and make the M3 rack stick out according to the calculated numbers. Now rotate the M3 rack centering tab so that it also aligns with the lower casting seam. Now you don't have to worry about tie rods being unequal length after the installation.
Last edited:
Yeah, your junction box will generate PWM after connecting and coding (look up earlier posts what to code in).
(Btw, I didn't have the M JBBFE on my 2011 135i and it didn't work for me. I will have to find M one. )
Just for info. I bought M3 rack last year for my 135i. Installation is straightforward. Except taking care to center it properly (the centering tab needs to be removed and turned) so you have equal turns left and right there was nothing special regarding installation.
For every other info, this forum helped a lot. The people from this post lost a lot of time finding everything.
We have a wiring diagram and the fact that 1M has Servotronic and uses JBBFE to control it. Then the fact that only some JBBFEs are right for this to work and the last thing is coding in two modules to enable Servotronic properly.
Now, after a lot of people lost a lot of time to figure it all out, this is actually a simple swap.
I tried to code my JBBFE that was in my 135i, but it didn't work. Then I ordered one from eBay for 70 euro with shipping. I was searching for the part number from realOEM for 1M car. I got X1 module with M designation. Replace mine with this one, code it again and it worked imediately.
Regarding the steering pump. I had a 2009 USA engine (and car). The engine had high oil consumption and I had a great deal for a newer engine so I bought another EU engine with really low mileage. After that, I got an N55 engine that I sold naked and I was left with all the parts from it. Looking at my stock of parts which as you can see I have enough, I noticed I have a 135bar pump. I haven't even bothered to look which pump is on a car and I'm not sure if this 135bar pump is from N54 or N55 engine. After driving a car for almost a year without Servotronic, after I made it work, the difference was so big that I honestly don't care anymore which pump is on the car. I just wanted to say that 135bar pump obviously wasn't only on some 1M models, but was for sure installed on some 135's or 335's. As I didn't care to write on the parts from which car they came I'm not sure is this 135bar pump from N54 or N55 engine and which car.
I also have CIC installed and I tried to code it to enable the M menu. The menu did appear, but the Servotronic option only shows "-". I have an automatic that should change modes thru the shifter in D, S, and M modes, but I couldn't notice the difference and on the CIC no difference, always only "-" appears.
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone involved in this because it helped a ton, saved a lot of time, and I'm not sure I would even start investigating all this without this post.
For others that want to do it, just follow instructions from this post and enjoy.
For every other info, this forum helped a lot. The people from this post lost a lot of time finding everything.
We have a wiring diagram and the fact that 1M has Servotronic and uses JBBFE to control it. Then the fact that only some JBBFEs are right for this to work and the last thing is coding in two modules to enable Servotronic properly.
Now, after a lot of people lost a lot of time to figure it all out, this is actually a simple swap.
I tried to code my JBBFE that was in my 135i, but it didn't work. Then I ordered one from eBay for 70 euro with shipping. I was searching for the part number from realOEM for 1M car. I got X1 module with M designation. Replace mine with this one, code it again and it worked imediately.
Regarding the steering pump. I had a 2009 USA engine (and car). The engine had high oil consumption and I had a great deal for a newer engine so I bought another EU engine with really low mileage. After that, I got an N55 engine that I sold naked and I was left with all the parts from it. Looking at my stock of parts which as you can see I have enough, I noticed I have a 135bar pump. I haven't even bothered to look which pump is on a car and I'm not sure if this 135bar pump is from N54 or N55 engine. After driving a car for almost a year without Servotronic, after I made it work, the difference was so big that I honestly don't care anymore which pump is on the car. I just wanted to say that 135bar pump obviously wasn't only on some 1M models, but was for sure installed on some 135's or 335's. As I didn't care to write on the parts from which car they came I'm not sure is this 135bar pump from N54 or N55 engine and which car.
I also have CIC installed and I tried to code it to enable the M menu. The menu did appear, but the Servotronic option only shows "-". I have an automatic that should change modes thru the shifter in D, S, and M modes, but I couldn't notice the difference and on the CIC no difference, always only "-" appears.
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone involved in this because it helped a ton, saved a lot of time, and I'm not sure I would even start investigating all this without this post.
For others that want to do it, just follow instructions from this post and enjoy.
Hi mate
With respect to the CIC menus the need the M3 DME as this stores the value and plays it back when M button is pressed. See discussion here
www.spoolstreet.com
With respect to the CIC menus the need the M3 DME as this stores the value and plays it back when M button is pressed. See discussion here
M-Drive and MDM in non M cars
HI All This thread is as per the title M drive and MDM in non M cars and is a natural progression of what was being discussed in this thread here . In short M(2,3) and 1M modules have specific programming and features and as such the functionality they bring is highly desirable in non M cars...
www.spoolstreet.com
Thanks for the info. I didn't connect the two. I am following some discussions because enabling MDM mode would be the last thing I would like at this moment, but I'm not sure I'm following that one.Hi mate
With respect to the CIC menus the need the M3 DME as this stores the value and plays it back when M button is pressed. See discussion here
M-Drive and MDM in non M cars
HI All This thread is as per the title M drive and MDM in non M cars and is a natural progression of what was being discussed in this thread here . In short M(2,3) and 1M modules have specific programming and features and as such the functionality they bring is highly desirable in non M cars...
I forgot to mention one important thing. I didn't change the steering column switch and I know there was somewhere a discussion about that. With 1M rack installed the steering angles are not the same. I noticed my DSC interfering a lot more and of course, the angle of the xenon lights is a bit different. I'm not sure is that different in 1M/M3 column switch but the turn signal doesn't always shut on smaller turn angles of the wheel with M3 rack. So to properly make everything work I think at least coding should be done on the column switch which I didn't do or a new column switch should be installed. If someone can add what should be done in this discussion that would be great because I think it is a part of this.
So i confirmthat after installing M JBF3 from e84 sercotronics virks,which is great. Not great is that DSC is messed because tire rotation speeds is different than car thinks it should be at such a less turned steering. Do someone know how to get this DSC working normal again, i drive usually all off when flooring,but want to sistem works anyway.
Can someone post a link to this thread and actually I think maybe I need to code the DsC module settings from M3.
Similar threads
