Aaron

Lieutenant
Nov 3, 2016
527
Colorado
I definitely won't have the pipes meeting each other where the hump is. I have s good 4" gap between the outlet and FMIC tubes. So I use about a 6" piece of silicone, and I'll probably go 7 to have a bit more forgiveness this go around.

I figured that because this kit isn't n54 specific,,that there'd be more to just a torque spec for these bolts being used with these rods. Thanks for the info!
The spec is actually for the bolts, not for the engine, so it's ARP driving the specs based on the properties of the bolts themselves, regardless of what you install them on.

I got around 55-60 lbs before I hit the desired stretch, and 42 did not stretch them enough. Will it make a difference if you only go to 42? I doubt it. The tools to measure stretch are expensive, require a knowledgeable helper, and finicky to use. So it's your call.
 
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gmx

Private
Dec 8, 2017
33
S55 block + N53 head = S53 :p

Time will tell whether this will actually be possible, in conjunction with an MSD81 DME, but I will do everything in my power to make this a reality. My #1 priority is to get my car up and running ASAP, the S55 block swap is not an immediate concern -seeing results from my hodgepodge of parts is...
You can keep hydraulic steering pump with this setup or need to convert?
 

The Convert

Lieutenant
Jun 4, 2017
934
I definitely won't have the pipes meeting each other where the hump is. I have s good 4" gap between the outlet and FMIC tubes. So I use about a 6" piece of silicone, and I'll probably go 7 to have a bit more forgiveness this go around.



The spec is actually for the bolts, not for the engine, so it's ARP driving the specs based on the properties of the bolts themselves, regardless of what you install them on.

I got around 55-60 lbs before I hit the desired stretch, and 42 did not stretch them enough. Will it make a difference if you only go to 42? I doubt it. The tools to measure stretch are expensive, require a knowledgeable helper, and finicky to use. So it's your call.
You should use this type of hump hose coupler then if you have that much of a gap.
7FC4B959-30F0-4A46-9263-E3704BDF5ED9.jpeg
 
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JuniorB

Sergeant
May 9, 2017
270
Rhode Island
I'll go off your torque specs, this is what I was looking for. Someone who has done these before in the same situation. Being off 10-15 lbs. can be a big difference in clamping force when torqueing these.
 
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JuniorB

Sergeant
May 9, 2017
270
Rhode Island
I can see how doing this can be a big issue. I ended up doing then tonight, and to my suprise, when I opened up the package, it stated 36ft lbs, lol! I torqued them to 53ft lbs, a tad under your stretch point, but over the 43 that has been mentioned. The crank moved very freely. I did find some interesting findings, but I'll post then in another tread.
 

Hydra Performance

Corporal
Free Vendor
Jan 31, 2017
233
Hi Omar, impressive work. Will you be supplying 2" aluminium outlets?

No idea why I did not see this sooner. I designed my outlets from 500F-rated silicone, reinforced with 5-plies. and a 1.75" ID for ease of fitment (with zero performance penalty), and a nice merge section where both banks meet for minimal flow disturbance. Furthermore the compressor outlets are both far from any radiant heat sources, which is further minimized when my heatshield is installed. Last but not least, I specced a light "aluminum" color in place of the usual black, to minimize radiant heat absorption even further. Again, attention to detail... :)
I know I've been saying this for a while but the initial batch should be done any day now!
 
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gmx

Private
Dec 8, 2017
33
The M3/1M steering feels better than the electrical M2/M3/M4 steering anyway
Exactly, I would swap in a S55 before doing any turbos, dealing with fueling restrictions etc. But only if I get to keep my rack!
 

Panzerfaust

Sergeant
Jul 3, 2018
426
Chicago
Excuse my language but "fuck, that's cool" is the only accurate descriptor in my opinion.

While clearly awesome for multiple reasons, I think one of my favorite most underrated parts is that you're keeping the DI Piezo injectors - especially cause that's gonna make a lot of the FB group people mad :tearsofjoy:
 

Hydra Performance

Corporal
Free Vendor
Jan 31, 2017
233
@doublespaces,
Do not underestimate the time, effort, and expense needed to properly calibrate a standalone from scratch, and even then its never going to be factory perfect - and this is coming straight from a professional tuner...
 
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jyamona

Lieutenant
Free Vendor
Nov 7, 2016
899
Philly
@doublespaces,
Do not underestimate the time, effort, and expense needed to properly calibrate a standalone from scratch, and even then its never going to be factory perfect - and this is coming straight from a professional tuner...
x1000. Everyone always seems to really overlook this. See how much that standalone costs after you have to pay for 60+ hours of your tuners time, and it still not be done or run great in all conditions.
 

Panzerfaust

Sergeant
Jul 3, 2018
426
Chicago
GRR I'm mad. By the way, injectors cost as much as a stand alone. Food for thought.
Nahhhh lol, wasn't referring to you at all Tyler. I know and understand that straight PI can have its benefits and that our injectors are wayyyy overpriced right now. But I also know you (at least presumably have to lol) know DI has its own range of benefits too, especially on an engine designed around DI, especially if using OE style pistons etc.

But anyway I was mostly referring to the legions of people on FB who comment on expensive builds and basically say "smh wasting all that money on a built motor and big turbos but keeping DI. If you want big power you need to go PI and standalone only" - I'm sure as an admin on several pages you've seen them too lol. They're probably often the same people who just bought an N54 and think it's the same as their old Eclipse/EVO/LS1 or whatever and ask what brand of downpipes or CP will offer the best gains.
 

Traf

Corporal
Aug 3, 2017
117
I can get new injectors for a very decent price :p
Sorry for wandering off topic.
 
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